Jump to content

JP MYERS

TU Member
  • Posts

    240
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JP MYERS

  1. JP MYERS

    9" Gold Foil Sucker

    Here is a close-up of the previously posted lure...[This is a PVC 9" gold foil Sucker, 7.1oz floating wakebait / shallow swimmer.. Will wake nicely on the slow retrieve, or crank it fast to make a lazy wide sweep about 1"-3" deep.. I scalloped the foil to give it a more natural scale appearance...062 wire, 5/0 hooks Wolverine 3X rings, glass eyes, Envirotex].. JP Myers
  2. JP MYERS

    9" gold foil Sucker

    This is a PVC 9" gold foil Sucker, 7.1oz floating wakebait / shallow swimmer.. Will wake nicely on the slow retrieve, or crank it fast to make a lazy wide sweep about 1"-3" deep.. I scalloped the foil to give it a more natural scale appearance...062 wire, 5/0 hooks Wolverine 3X rings, glass eyes, Envirotex.. JP Myers
  3. Thanks guys, the sound all comes from the feet actually.. They catch the water when you jerk it and make major bubbles and noise.. The legs can move in all directions, used interlocking screw eyes, no spin action tho.. The position of the feet are what makes it really work the water.. Jp~ On this short clip, I think ya can see the action better..maybe..
  4. Here is my Frogginstein..haha.. Large surface jerk in green leopard frog pattern.. I also have it in a golden brown leopard posted in the gallery too to check out if ya like..Solid plastic body poured from a series of silicone molds. Owner frog hook, e-tex, glass taxidermy eyes. JP~
  5. Here is my latest frog plug, a surface jerkbait, jointed legs, Owner 4/0 frog hook in the butt, taxidermist reptile eyes, E-tex coated, comes in green leopard and golden brown leopard frog.. JP~
  6. JP MYERS

    Fins

    Offend, not at all my friend..On the contrary Dan, most flattered indeed..haha..First time anyone found one of my lure pics to re-post..Always glad to be of some small help.. Yeah it is a bit of work too I agree, I get 10-15 lures all finished up painting, then sit down and do all their fins/gills at the same time to make it less taxing.. But its tedious all the same.. Jp~
  7. I dunno, must need to get my eyeglasses prescription changed as the eyes in the photo appear to be the exact same eyes that Im holding a card of 1/2" silver/gold/black pupil up next to the pic, looks like the same eyes, and I got mine from Predator.. I'll stick to supporting our site sponsor, he never shorts ya on the count, super fast delivery, no wait on a Thai shipment.. Jp~
  8. I use the fine point Sharpie for my lure sigs with E-Tex..I first apply a thin sealer coat of D2T (Devcon 2 Ton) over signature area, let cure, then apply multiple layers of E-Tex as my topcoating.. The sigs have never ran.. If I apply E-Tex directly over the Sharpie without sealing first w/D2T, it runs and/or totally disappears, but never when I first seal it w/D2T.. If by deft you mean Polyurethane Deft, its probably not a good enough sealant to protect against the solvents in the E-Tex.. I have used poly Deft for many years in my woodworking projects, its a great interior wood finish but I doubt it can seal against the E-Tex solvents.. The Deft itself may also contain enough solvents to mess up your sig as well.. It can lift regular ink pens as I had that problem w/Deft when signing my wood toys.. But I am 100% certain that E-Tex will lift Sharpies if you dont seal the sig properly first.. Switch pens as others have already suggested or change your sealer to Devcon 2 Ton then apply your E-Tex..I've been doing it this way for 2 yrs with no problems.. Jp~
  9. JP MYERS

    Fins

    This pic shows some decent airbrush detail on fin & gill marking for reference.. I did this a while back.. Jp~
  10. JP MYERS

    Fins

    As that is my lure in the photo you've supplied, perhaps this might help a little Dan.. Cut out a small stencil from acetate, use 3-4 colors sprayed w/the airbrush.. For a good looking fin dont place the stencil directly on lure body surface, rather keep it slightly off the surface when spraying & it will give you softer edges that add depth and a appearance of shadow that makes the fin "jump off" the body.. I glue a few pieces of toothpick to the stencil so it stays off the body.. On the fin in your attachment, I just did the outline in black, let some of the body color(copper foil) show thru for a very basic fin.. I usually use 2-4 colors and spray a little of the belly color on the very front of fin to blend into the belly.. You can do gill markings in this same method..
  11. You need to weigh the portions or use a small measuring cup.. Squeezing out of the tube, almost always, one side sends out more than the other.. You have to reeeally give the tube plunger an even pressure to get equal amounts of both parts-- better off to weigh or measure.. You can also get D2T in squeeze bottles.. Yeah the D2T will yellow quickly from my experience w/it.. I switched over to E-Tex and have been nothing but pleased.. You'll need to rotate your lure w/e-tex for 3-4 hours then hang to dry for another 8 hrs or so.. It takes far longer to cure than Dev. but worth the wait.. Crystal clear & super glossy.. BTW, sounds like your coating didnt cure properly, as stated by Mark, it was probably improper mixing..Did you notice if any of the surface was tacky after it set in the sun?.. Thats a dead giveaway too.. I've been using Createx & never had any such problems, gots ta be da mix..I have had enamels wrinkle after appling devcon, but that was becuz the paint had not cured completely.. Hope it all works out for ya, Jp~
  12. Here is a medium size Ohio farm pond Largemouth Bass I caught today.. I was swim testing a few lures and hooked this fish, decided to take a photo.. The lure is one of my handmade crankbaits, 6" at 2.3 ounces.. It is in a silver foil shad pattern.. I was wearing my lucky Ramones T-shirt, and caught the bass on my third cast.. I was a little surprised as it was about 2pm & temp around 88f and she hit in the shallows.. Ok, so the lure worked great, testing is over!.. Hahaha..
  13. JP MYERS

    Albino Bleeding Shad

    Heres a real freak on a leash.. This is my new shad pattern, Albino Bleeding Shad.. Light washed out some of the detail but its pearl white scales over white, with the blood trail leading from gills to tail.. 5" crank runs 6-8 feet deep, 1.8oz..
  14. JP MYERS

    some new jerk baits

    Thank you very much for the details on the scaling.. I do not mind the extra effort to do the work.. I will experiment on a few of my custom cranks first.. I had the priviledge a few years ago to inspect an actual Paw Paw scale mold.. This was probably +50 years old mold device.. They casted a scale design from cast iron.. It was a 2 piece shell.. You put the lure blank inside the mold, close it up and spray thru it to produce a beautiful life-like scale design, very much like yours..Thanks again, the reply was greatly appreciated.. Jp~
  15. Thank you, I appreciate it.. John
  16. 5" Natural Shad Crankbait, 1.7oz, e-tex, 4X #1/0 VMC hooks John
  17. JP MYERS

    Gold Foil Crankbait

    5" PVC crankbait, 1.9oz., e-tex,4X #1/0 VMC..Gold foil w/black bars.. John
  18. JP MYERS

    5" Fire Shad Crankbait

    handcrafted PVC board crank, 5"-- 1.9oz.. Fire Shad John
  19. 7" PVC crafted crankbait in gold foil shiner/sucker pattern.. John
  20. While I dont make jointed swimbaits I do use PVC for Cranks, 5"-10" baits.. I had roll on blanks when I first switched over.. More belly weight helped, but for me changing the line tie position really cleared up the problem.. Not height position on the nose tho.. I went another route & switched from a vertical position tie to a horizontal.. Since using the horizontal, the roll is minimal & they run true & straight as a arrow..I think its increased the head to tail sweep of the lure which I like very much.. I got the idea from making saltwater plugs, as with Salts, the tie fits through a metal lip slot & they end up horizontal.. You can also bend the tie up or down to tune your depth.. I tune mine prior to painting so the tie is epoxied into its tuned position.. i dont think the Horz tie looks too weird but its not traditional I suppose.. John~
  21. JP MYERS

    some new jerk baits

    If you designed the lure bodies themselves, then let me commend you on your design.. They look great.. I would also like to say I really like the scale pattern as it looks very natural.. I would surely like to know where you got the scale pattern, could use that myself.. I restore and collect old wood antique lures made by the Paw Paw Bait Company.. Your scale pattern is nearly identical to theirs.. That scale pattern you use would help me greatly in my restoration projects.. Jp~
  22. Hi, when using silver foil I like shad type patterns & w/gold foil, perch always works nicely.. Right now Im working on Rainbow trout, one each in silver & gold to see which looks better.. Here is a silver foil shad I did a few weeks ago.. Only using black on back, pearl white on belly & color shift paint on upper sides and same colors used on cheek/gill area..I mixed glitter into the e-tex coatings to add some extra bling bling to it.. Rubbed the foil cut-outs on a piece of plastic that had a stone paver looking image embossed into it to get the foil effect you see in pic.. Jp~
  23. JP MYERS

    Big Jtd. Frog Lure

    Heres a few more views, hope this works! Jp~
  24. JP MYERS

    Big Jtd. Frog Lure

    Hi Lance, well actually I sat down one evening w/Sculpey clay & did majority of shaping by hand.. I used a marker rearend to make the side membranes, a glass eye to press the eye sockets into shape, & a ink pen tip for nose openings.. Nothing hi-tech at all.. After I fired the clay in my kitchen stove I added more clay here & there to get the back lumpy looking & balance out the sides & belly,again by hand shaping.. If you wet the clay you can shape & smooth w/your fingers nicely.. A few coats of epoxy and it was ready to cast a silicone mold.. I used Smooth-On silcone rubber to cast leg part molds in small pill bottles, the body casted in a plastic pop bottle,.. I pre-cut all the bottles in half, taped together so they would easily come apart.. Before removing tape I I inserted my Exacto blade into the bottle cut along one side only of each mold to create a slip mold once the molds were removed.. Now I can just put a rubber band around each mold & cast my plastic easy as can be.. I made a total of 5 molds, one for body, 4 for the leg parts, so I have a complete lure with each mixing.. To get both legs the same, I made one complete leg from clay, thigh & shin w/foot, made double molds from it to cast both legs.. Its easier than trying to shape 2 complete legs exactly the same from the clay... Jp~
  25. JP MYERS

    Big Jtd. Frog Lure

    I dont know if ya can tell much from this vid or not..It was a windy day, water rough.. But on calm water the legs swing out nicely, then come back & heels click together.. Jp My Dad will never fish it, he been wanting me to make him one for awhile now, just wanted it for a display case.. http://www.facebook.com/jpmyerslures#!/video/video.php?v=121557937855056&ref=mf
×
×
  • Create New...
Top