OzarkAssassin

That's the answer I was looking for. Thanks for the help.

I use auto air paints, and I haven't heard about temperature changing colors, but I have several colors that are cameleon colors. They change colors when the sun hits them. They come in some pretty crazy colors, but are really expensive. You can amost get the same effect from layering individual colors.

So does the rubbing alcohol actually strip down the Epoxy? Can you rubb the uneven areas to smooth it out? I only ask, because I ussualy sand and then recoat. Also, for the lures that the epoxy finished uneven, I would love to be able to refinish them without sanding and having a somewhat cloudy finish.

Thanks, I will try that.

Those are all very helpful comments. I have used an air drier in the past, but stopped doingthat after I had noticed some dust particlles sticking to some of my lures. I think if I let the lure set for while before using the heat, it will give the epoxy some time to dry. It really has been hit or miss as to whether or not I get a good finish or a uneven finish. I could never pinpoint what was causing it, but my guess is that when I started using the Flex Coat I started noticing it more, and think that is because it takes longer to set, and if you apply the heat to early, it almost turns into water. I will definately try all of those other options though. Preheating the lure sounds like a pretty good idea too, but I would be too afraid of ruining the paint job. I use Auto Air and I am not sure how that will react to heat. No to sure I want to find out either, after I have spent time painting. Now that I think of it, I am also in my basement where it is about 60 Degrees, so that may be prolonging my dry times too. It's amazing how many little things can screw up a days worth of work. Thanks for the help

I have painted for a couple of years now, and I have used all sorts of different epoxies, and I never get a perfect finish. Just want to know if anyone has any suggestions as to how I can get a smoother finish. I always seem to have some sort of uneven part in my epoxy once it dries. The following is what I normally do to finish my lures. I currently use Flex Coat (High Build), but I have used Devcon 2 Ton in the past as well. I am thinking about switching to Flex Coat Lite, because most of the lures I paint are suspending lures, and I've been told that will help keep the lure from getting too weighed down. After applying my epoxy I always use my "set it and forget it" rotisorie that I recieved as a wedding gift years ago to rotate my lures. I attach the lures to the outer portion of the wheel with alligator clips. I then turn the rotator on, but I ussualy turn the heat on the rotisorie for about 30 seconds, because it seems to get the bubbles out of the epoxy. After I turn the heat off, I leave the rotary on for about 45 minutes. I let it sit over night and then its finished. I think what is happening is that when I turn the heat on, it thins out the epoxy, and makes it get clumpy in areas. But if I don't turn the heat on, I have noticed bubbles in my finished products in the past. Any suggestions????

I use auto air paint for everything, but I really only paint jerckbaits. They have a ton of different color options. It is easy to work with, and easy to clean up. The auto air paint can be expensive though. Once I am finished painting the lure, I use FLex Coat Eplox. Make sure you use the LITE though.

Flexcoat! Taste Great! I tested it out for the 1st time today. I don't have a temperature control guage on it, so I only turned the heat on for about 2-3 minutes, but it did the job. I can however run it without the heat on, so I can ran it for about 20 more minutes afterwards.

I have never used a wheel, but I have had this rotisseri sitting in my kitchen cabinet for about 3 years now and have never used it. I just pulled it out and attached aligator clamps to the cylinders inside the rotisseri. I can turn the rotissori on for up to 2 hours at a time, without the heat on. I am wanting to know if they think this will work? Click on this link to view the rotisseri. http://www.ronco.com/rco_prodinfo.aspx?pid=ST3001101001&color=&active=ascry I hope I can finally get some use out of this thing!

Will Do! Thanks for the input. I currently use the alminum base by Auto Air, and I have been trying some pearlized silver, and it doesn't even come close. I know that people use sparkle and flakes between epoxy coats, but is it ever common to throw a lite spay of transpaerent paint on in between epoxy coats. Thought it might bring out a nice understone with the right colors? Thanks

Ocassionally, I will go after Big Brownies on the White river, and they ussually tear the hell out of my regular stick baits I buy at the store, so I know what you mean. But for the most part I am fishing for largemouth. Not sure if you know the answer to this, But I have never used acrylics, I have always used water based createx, or Auto Air. Can I use both together on one lure. I have been trying for the life of me to get a flashy chromish look shad color in the water based line, and I can't seem to find it. It sounds to me like most of the people in here use acrylics. When I think of Acrylics, I think oil based, & I wouldn't think that would go well with the water based. Thanks

I have found that my best largemouth color is a dark blue stip on the back of the lure, and fade it into a purple coming just barely over the topside of the lure. Then touch the side of the lure up with a natural shad color, or a white or eggshell color. Then on the belly I will do a white with a hint of purple, definately more on the white side though. In some lakes, I have found that if you put a touch of pinkish red on the belly (under the gill area) it will produce more fish. If the water is Muddy, I always use the same color, except that I have a strip of Chart. on the belly side of the tail.

Thanks Again!

Where do you suggest I get it? Lite? as opposed to what? You need to remember your speaking to a rookie here!

I just found it in Cabela's magazine. Thanks Again!