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hazmail last won the day on December 18 2017

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About hazmail

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  • Birthday 10/20/1949

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  1. hazmail

    1 lb ball

    For what it's worth I too have thought some on this, BUT having no knowledge of "Hard" maths (anything above algebra) I would have acquired a set of fish scales (with memory) hung the ball off the scale with something that doesn't stretch much,,Drop the ball and the weight (shock) will be recorded on the scales for you to read ---Just make sure you catch the ball before it drops again as it will probably cancel the last traumatic event. No matter what size ball all results should be relative, as long as the hanger wire remains the same length /thickness and the drop height remains the same. Remember, double the ball diameter is 4 X the mass. I THINK!! Was it ''Newton'' who got hit on the head with an apple ?? As I said I never did get to try this. Pete
  2. Yeah Dave, that's 5 times normal speed , but an admirable goal none the less . I went down this road too, but I was probably aiming for something in the 80-100 RPM range , I was trying to dampen the 'bounce' with mini oil over air shock absorbers - didn't work, too complicated!! Then magnets sounded quite plausible, but never went there ??--I settled on 60 rpm and 2 cutting blades, a leader and finisher, still a work in progress---I also found lead angles make a hell of difference. Using reasonably hard Mahogany & not Balsa tests speed and feed. Pete
  3. Thanks Mark I hope so!! Sorry, I got a bit carried away above, (there is a lot of years there)- I was trying to demonstrate how with one curved lip, and the same or a similar blank you can have so many options in depth and action--a lot of people don't seem to get it though.
  4. Dave think CNC------------ ''Ball Screws'', no end slop---& '' linear bearings'' no side play. They are quit inexpensive, maybe not to ''CNC standard'' but perfect for our tolerances . Lots of other stuff too, wire tracks, mushroom bearings , screw end bearings etc. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Ball-Screw-1Pcs-SFU1204-250mm-1500mm-End-Machine-With-1Set-BK10-BF10/303039958559?hash=item468e96ce1f:m:mNnHLtd5W9N2Eqt-JCFnwPg&frcectupt=true Pete
  5. I like the idea of the air line coupling for a quick change over- like you Dave I use a double ended staino rod (in a chuck). It also indicates that there was not a lot of load on the cutter head,,, Just thinking, maybe there was a ''dead center'' at the other end, that would even things up a bit. Also great picture Clemmy and thanks for posting. Pete
  6. Love your work Dave , as for me, well I am going to go and sit in a quiet corner (for a week) and try and digest all this . I think I have seen most of these zig's and zag's in most of the shapes I have made but to intentionally add all these attributes will be a work of art -- SO can't wait to check it out. As for the Mercury, I made a few about 10 years back with mercury switches (in tact) where the mercury could flow up and down the glass tube. I inserted these in various places in blanks and got some interesting results, BUT on reflection I later decided the pollution risk was not worth it . BUT gee the weight/volume ratio was great to work with. Looking forward to checking out the results from all. Pete
  7. I could never get Propionate here years back, so I used to dissolve cheap reading glass lenses in lacquer thinners ( Acetone is quicker). With thinners it takes about 3 days to dissolve, if the lenses are broken up. These plastic lenses are made of a form of propionate which is very clear, and hard!! I eventually was sent a 1 pound bag of granulated Prop by ''PhilB'' about 10 years back, still have a small amount here somewhere. A little bit goes a long way, 4-6 lenses dissolved would make a pint of lacquer - also it needs to be agitated a few times per day until it is dissolved. Pete.
  8. dpalinsk -- Great Idea, thanks for posting. Thank Carl too Pete
  9. OK, I dug up some old and a few new attempts with convex and concave lips. As we know there can be a lot of variables in action and depth with just one lip shape- I wonder why it's not used a lot more ''Text'' is on each photo, just in case I can't post this many pictures here -----hope this is legal, otherwise I will post them in my attachments, or somewhere?? Pete **** SORRY, pic's 4 and 5 should read ''Concave Lip"
  10. Great post Dave, as always they suck me in, especially anything related to your favorite, "Street Vortices". If anyone wants to play with this (I do often), after dinner get your black fry pan (the bigger the better), 2/3 fill it with a mixture of water and some detergent and heat it to just below boiling and the detergent will make a thin white foam on top of the water. Now get your square edged (or round, or coffin shaped) lips and slowly drag them slowly across the pan and see, wonder of wonders ''Street Vertices'' or whatever you want to create, an egg flip works good. Mark- I have been playing with concave/convex lips for years and rarely use a flat lip, also have been using rear bibs (horizontal). In the past year or so I have graduated to a concave top on a lot of my lures, I have had some success and some failures but I am thinking this is probably a weight issue. It's all worth pursuing, I will try and scrounge up some lure pictures and post them in the next few days. Thanks again Dave. Pete
  11. It's a bit late here for Xmas, BUT hope you all have a great new year. Australia. Pete
  12. Nice ''Chuck'', this is the ''holy grail'' of finishes as far as lures are concerned, great result and thank you for posting. I have been dabbling with this problem too for a while, mainly using gold and silver leaf which is not as ''chromy'' as heat transfer foil. - I have also tried transfer foil but all were attempted using various ''glue sizes'' with varying results,,,50/50 . Your process with the vacuum appears to have overcome some of my problems (mainly inconsistencies in the coating). From past experience, one area I think may be helpful to you is in your use of 30 min epoxy- I played around with this and it seemed a bit too touchy in that one day it would tack up after 3 hours and next day it would be 4. SO I started experimenting with UV epoxies, very quick set but again very inconsistent,, except for a "Solarez Epoxy'', which on curing (in a couple of minutes in the sun) it retains a tac on the surface which will ''grab'' anything that comes in contact including leaf, but not sure about heat foil - this tack lasts for days, even weeks. As an aside I have wrapped lure blanks in gold leaf, then inserted it into a latex tube, with a suction pump (food vacuum machine) the air is removed from the tube, atmospheric pressure then presses the tube onto the leaf , then the leaf (or foil maybe) onto the lure, works very well with gold /silver ''leaf'' but the down side is leaf is very delicate to handle. And by the way the best latex tubes I have found are condoms which may be a problem over there !!!!!!!!! . Thanks again for posting and keep the results coming. Pete
  13. Sounds interesting Dave (and looks interesting) especially the foil etching. Haven't got a machine yet but always wanted one, better get searching ! Thanks for posting Dave Pete
  14. ------ "Tomato'' here Bob. Pete
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