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hazmail last won the day on August 31

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About hazmail

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  • Birthday 10/20/1949

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    Canberra -- Australia
  1. Selecting the Right Epoxy

    Just found this Bob, some more info on resin characteristics etc, UV, epoxy and polyester, which may be usefull--------- It's a Japanese company but has heaps of info on all sorts of glue /resins and their problems/cures, including ''super glues'' https://www.threebond.co.jp/en/technical/seminar/ucuringvresin.html Pete
  2. Spray / Paint Booth /work Center

    Good to hear you have done this Chuck but I have to agree with ''Eyecatcher'', you need to watch the sparks coming off the armature in those motors, you can use a sealed motor (no sparks) out of a gas furnace fan OR evaproative cooler fan (''swamp box'') You can pick them up anywhere for next to zero $'s AND they move heaps more air. Good luck with it. Pete
  3. Paint Cabinet Controlled Temperature

    Nice setup Gino- we have the same problem here 38C in the summer -6C in winter. I have been using a 100 W spot lamp on a timer for a few years now, it raises the temp by about 20C in winter, I put it in my spray booth and everything is nice and warm and great for curing epoxy on a cold night. I like your thermostat/fan idea, saves on power and we get a constant temp. Well done . Pete
  4. New jointing method for Swimbaits?

    I think we went through this bead thing years ago Nath, never ever thought they would stand up to a good fish, BUT those poundage's quoted in your attachment has certainly changed my mind. Thanks for posting . Pete
  5. Respirator Advice

    Dan-- Don't get me wrong, we do need to protect ourselves, especially with the '' 2 Pak'' clears etc. The respirators I have (similar or same as you quoted) are hanging on the shed wall, I never throw anything out . There a a lot of plans for ''spray booths'' See Google images) on the web, I think the main thing is to have a fan system with a sealed motor, commonly found in oil and gas heater fans, ''evaporative cooler'' fan motors are also sealed and all are readily scavanged from these appliances- another thing also in common with being sealed is they are all ''pelton fans'''(I think you all call the squirrel cage fans there) which are relatively slow revving but move quite a bit of air--- Sealed motors need to be used to stop 'flash back' when using thinners based paints--BIG Bang if you don't. Hope this is of some help. ----------------Pete
  6. Respirator Advice

    I have a few of these, I wore them until it got hot (summer) and that was the end of them, very uncomfortable -- build yourself a spray booth and save your money, all you need is some ply and a trashed gas heater fan and some power. Pete
  7. Lure Drying RPM

    Yep ! I have mine in my spray booth, just close the sliding poly carbonate door and turn on a 100w spot light, heats it to 20c in winter and about 30c in summer--(usually turn it on at night), has a timer on the power cord so it turns off after a few hours---Good for drying primer etc too. Pete
  8. Selecting the Right Epoxy

    Just found this Bob , nice one, and thanks for doing the legwork. Pete
  9. Getting a small amount of paint

    You can get plastic ''pipettes'' for a few cents each on ''the bay'', BUT you might have to buy a 100--very handy- I use them all the time and they are immune to most solvents. Look I even found some-- https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xplastic+pipetts.TRS0&_nkw=plastic+pipetts&_sacat=0 Pete
  10. Airbrush issue

    I think the residue thinners you originally cleaned it with is turning the ''Createx'' (water base) to a gloopy plastic which then blocks the ''tip''. Always--After cleaning with thinners, flush with acetone or alcohol and then water before adding any water based paint. Thinners and water based are not compatible. Solution would be to clean with acetone like everyone is saying (backflush etc) and then a quick flush with alcohol, then another quick flush with some water---I cross over paints all the time and this is what I have to do, its a pain but sometimes incompatible paints give some good effects. Pete
  11. Hard Bait concave lips - spooned or cupped

    No problem Harry- another plus I forgot is a convex lip (curve up ) tends to shed the weed etc---which as we all know is a never ending problem when trolling. Have fun with it. Pete
  12. Hard Bait concave lips - spooned or cupped

    fshng2-- I have probably bent around 500 lips over the past few years and have found ''rice oil'' to be the best (it has highest heat range so it smokes less), the oil needs to be about 182-1823 C ----------''Lexan'' (poly-carbonate) is solid up to about 180C and it starts to melt at about 186-188C. You can use a bent lip either way up too (concave or convex) which will give 2 different actions and depths, and out of one bib ''blank type'' you can make/have flat, concave or convex - Let us know how you go--Pete
  13. New Vman Design

    Nice Dave, long and slender, a yellow/ black ''Hornet'' it's my favorite lure colour-- Well done mate . Pete
  14. Baz--I think you may be starting at the wrong end of the process ?? Get the required amount your medium (I'm assuming it's water based) and add DISTILLED water until your medium is close to thickness you want for spraying, then add green pigment (or paint ) and mix in until you get the color you like--you may need to test this at stages, simply take samples and dry them (with a heat gun) to get the color intensity you want--thin again to desired viscosity for your brush and spray away. It's the same with any medium for C/Colors, add the color to the medium, NOT the medium to the color, this makes the colors semi opaque or ''clear''. Pete
  15. 'Champagne' Cork Grips

    Had forgot all about this post--2009 ??? This is what I do to get the ''rib and cap'' marks out of the used corks, they come out round and square on the ends, and slightly larger in diameter---nearly like new. I get a big pot of water (in the shed preferably) and about 1/4 fill with water, boil it, then throw all your corks in and turn the water DOWN to simmer, WITH a lid on for about 15 min-- Don't fill the pot with corks , they will expand push the lid off. When you think you have got the best shape, drain the hot water and place them on a cake grate (WARNING they will be hot), then put them in the sun for a few days to dry. WARNING--don't do this inside the house, your wife / partner will crack, the stale Champagne and hot cork are a pretty smelly. Pete