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pikester

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About pikester

  • Birthday 04/26/1972

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  • Location
    Strathmore, AB, CAN
  • Interests
    Well, lure building of course, fishing, drinking Rye whiskey with anyone who wants to be social, & trying to be a good dad!

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  1. I used Etex to seal 4 baits one night last week in a room without ventilation & no mask. I did notice I was dizzy afterwards so I will definitely be using ventilation or at least a mask from now on. Better to be safe than sorry I think!
  2. Thanks for the ideas fellas, I actually painted the glider last night with the idea of keeping it basic & simple to get the most out of the foil but it ended up getting out of control! I just started adding colours & couldn't stop Oh well, 2 more to go but because I am super busy with work, 3 little boys , & a wife who lacks patience for my free time, it might take me a week to finish them! Will post pics of all 3 when done
  3. Airbrush paints, I think most use Createx Auto Air myself included. Don't ask me how to get it to spray nice because I still struggle with that myself even though I've tried all the usual tricks; Windex, water, reducer, medium, etc. I think the biggest trick is just getting real good at using your brush I have had real good luck with 2 other products; Golden Airbrush paint made by Golden Artist colors, & a sprayable ink called FW Acrylic Arists Ink made by Daler-Rowney. I like the FW the best because it is made with high quality pigments which result in nice, vibrant colors plus it's pretty thin so you don't have to add anything to it; just pour & shoot! The only downside is it's pricey for me ($8.00 for 1oz!) & the only store in Calgary that sells it doesn't have a lot of color variety. Clearcoat is easy, most use either Devcon 2Ton epoxy or Envirotex Lite pour-on epoxy. The ones who don't use those use Dick Nites(sp?) topcoat. That should be enough to get you rolling a little smoother
  4. Haha, I can assure you it's silver foil. I'm not much of a photographer yet so I had to take that picture in real low light to get it to turn out. When I took a picture with more light it was glaring so bad it was like looking into the sun! Thanks for the tip about keeping things basic & simple, it would be easy to get carried away & paint the heck out of them thereby defeating the purpose of the foil job.
  5. Not a great pic I know but it's all I got of my foiled blanks for now!
  6. Hey folks, just brainstorming on what to do with some new silver foiled baits I got cookin'! Two are flat-sided balsa cranks, one is a Glidin' Rap style balsa glider, all destined to be chewed by pike & walleye. My personal favourite is Clown so at least one will get that treatment but just curious to hear what colour schemes are productive for other builders here
  7. I hear what you're saying, thanks I will give it a go! BTW, just as a point of interest, the crank in my avatar is a 4" from red cedar
  8. Interesting... this is starting to sound more like a study in chemistry & alchemy every day!!! I am definitely leaning towards aluminum lips now
  9. I draw out all my shapes on my wood before hand, making sure the outlines are all the same. I just cut the rough shapes out with a scroll saw if it's softer, thinner material like 3/8"birch or poplar, etc. On heavier hardwoods I use a bandsaw. Once I have the basic blank I cut all my lip slots on a table saw, then do my initial shaping, rounding, & smoothing with a bench sander.
  10. By etc I meant that sometimes I incorporate a metal tail fin & possibly a vertical fin of some sorts, I just didn't feel like elaborating at the time, sorry. When you take into account a line tie, two or even 3 hook hangers ( on the 9"), plus a tail & dorsal fin, that is a lot to sand around. None the less, you have convinced me to give it a try, will attempt it on my next one, thanks.
  11. I see, thanks for the tutorial Rofish! I actually do a very similar process (including using the same die grinder bit!), except for using the toothpicks as locator dowels, I like that! Still kinda leaves me with the same predicament though, after shaping & sanding the bodies I have to spit them in half & lay them down to install the hook harness, lead, rattles, etc. I realise that with smaller lures like you describe it's easy enough just to let the hardware half rest in your hand to do everything, then glue it but most of my balsa bait are 6"-9" long & include 1 to 1&1/2 oz of weight as well as a long harness, & a couple rattles so that's not an option. I guess that is the point where I'm stumbling. I just have to be careful I guess to keep my work area clean of things that can divot my surfaces, as well as doing a coat or two of sealer to firm it up.
  12. Thanks for those tips as well! 47" eh, wow I would love to see one of those up close!!! My PB is 41" caught on a rainbow trout coloured #11 Countdown Rapala. By the time I got the fish netted she had torn through my steel leader & one of the trebles had pulled right off the split ring!
  13. I'd eat it yummmmmmmm! Thought about glueing some eyes on that bad boy? Not that you have to, I'm addicted to eyes, I put them on everything. My kids even end up running around the house with google eyes stuck to them
  14. Dave, I think you are right about the sensitive nature of stainless. I use carbide tipped chisels at work all the time & I do my own sharpening which is a process that takes much care & a special grinding stone, we just call it a "greenstone". Maybe this type of stone would work for stainless as well?
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