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bdhaeh

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About bdhaeh

  • Birthday 02/10/1977

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  1. Here is what he said about the process. "Have had numerous people wanting to know how to chrome soft plastics, so here is my way. Am sure others can come up with other techniques. I use a black bait straight from the mold with no oils added. You want a dry bait. Dark colored baits work best, but you can use any bait and improve your catch ratio. You can mix aluminum powder in color tech clear and spray your bait and coming back over it with white pearl in the color tech clear. This gives the bait a metallic silver-chrome look which is very durable.If you don't want to invest in an airbrush, you can mix your aluminum-clear and your white pearl in seperate containers and just mop a coat of each on the bait with a q-tip,etc. You can bypass the aluminum and put a coat or two of the white pearl on the bait, which I really like. A real plus to this method is you can use other pearls to achieve other metallic colors such as gold,etc.You can custom paint a bait with several colors as there is no end to the metallic color schemes you can produce. You can take a clear bait with weedless hook slot and coat the inner portion to get a highly reflective-magnified flash,also. Hope you like it. Do this outside or with proper safety procedures, as the fumes are potent. Keep it off your hands. I also have just hand rubbed the baits with the white pearl and dip the whole bait in color tech clear and hang to dry..." The poster is Bob King, the inventor of the wedgetail.
  2. Does anyone know anything about this? I saw it mentioned on swimbaitnation, here's the link. SwimbaitNation.com • View topic - New trout design....
  3. Good luck finding ironwood. I had a tough enough time finding maple or cypress, which have similar densities. Use poplar, the denser woods are way more finicky and hard to carve. You would rather be able to dictate the ballast yourself than let the wood do it for you.
  4. Poplar would probably be your best bet, I have made swimbaits out of maple but they were best suited as fast sink baits. You don't have to add much ballast to maple after hooks, hardware, and D2 and it sinks pretty quickly.
  5. Just a guess, but I would think that those heavy hinges would screw up the ballast on smaller lures. You might could get away with them on larger baits, but in my experience the ballast has to be head forward as low as you can go, especially with swimbaits.
  6. bdhaeh

    Stickys

    I am a member of several message boards, all of which have "stickys" for usefull threads and commonly asked questions. Why doesn't this board have these? There are questions on top coat, wood types, eye screws. joint types, which paint is best, etc, etc, every week. Why can't we have a list of commonly asked topics at the top of the hard bait board?
  7. calfishing.com - Viewing message I have always wanted to cut open a triple trout to see how far off I was on weighting, but an X-ray is sooo much better, and cheaper! I don't know if this is a floater or sinker, but here ya go.
  8. Another suggestion, more weight in the head and less in the body sections. If you have to put weight in the body, put it as far forward as you can in each section. I disagree that making the tail flared will make the bait kick, In my experience proper weighting of the head section is what makes the bait work. I have made several 4 piece swimbaits that are as close to anatomically correct as possible, that means that the tail is just like a baitfish, the skinniest part of the body. Weight the head, carve your joints at 45* and you will be well on your way.
  9. I would look into whatever companies like 3:16 lure co use. If you through wired those baits they would be very tough. You might get some tooth rash though.
  10. Incredible looking baits. I too have been thinking about trying the 3:16 hinge system with wood, just haven't gotten around to it yet. It is by far the best looking hinge for swimbaits. I have a couple of questions. Did you use a dowel for the actual hinge? Can we see a video of the bass? Bravo!
  11. You can get lexan from the Lowes/Home Depot and it works great. I posted in another thread about lack of action with lexan tails, it is all about how the bait is built. Tails that are made of soft plastic, paint brush bristles, microfibettes are much easier to move when the bait swims. So they are more tolerant of errors in the actual bait. Lots of times they look more natural as well. For instance, I just received a 3:16 Lure Co. Baby Wake Bait. It has a really unique action that is a proven fish catcher. But, b/c i like to experiment, I tried a microfibette tail instead of lexan and it has a much wider kick when swimming on a straight retrieve.
  12. First of all, very nice bait and kudos to mentioning your inspiration for this lure. I see that you are not completely happy w/ the action, I have found that it is really difficult to get the tail to kick on wakebaits w/ lexan. You have to have no weight in the tail and leave enough play so that the tail can work back and forth like the 3:16 lures. I have found that using soft plastic or some kind of bristles for the tail is much more forgiving and produces a more fluid motion.
  13. FYI, there is a thread at pondboss.com where a guy caught a really skinny bass, so he cut open the stomach and found that the digestive tract was blocked by plastic worms.
  14. bdhaeh

    Dyeing fibers...

    Sharpies work great on bristles. They may fade after some time, but you can always touch them up.
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