CNC Molds N Stuff

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About CNC Molds N Stuff

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    http://www.cncmolds.com

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    Yuma, Az
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    Support the future of fishing. Support and promote youth fishing events and pro am or draw team clubs.

    "You can feed an infinite number of monkeys for an infinite amount of time while they randomly pound on an infinite number of typewriters or you can just buy a copy of your favorite works of William Shakespeare directly from Bill."
    ~Bob La Londe
    www.CNCMOLDS.com

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  1. New Weed Guard Set-Up From Mark Pack

    I have 200lb black mono I use for slip rig duck decoys. It seems limber, but try cutting off a 1.5" piece and bending it. I suspect 100lb might be closer to the ticket for this. I've got some 50lb mono on my catfish rigs. I'll check that out if I have time in the shop today. I think I might have some culling tags with 100lb mono, but I don't remember for sure. I'll check those too. Its a nice looking setup for sure. I am sure you guys know that mono weed guards have been done before (w.w.hook and others), and some guys quite like them. I've also seen mono used as a "loop" type weedguard with both ends secure on the shank. Those are great for shiner fishing in pencil tulies. I have to admit I have not seen this exact use of mono before with it tied down to the hook, but mono weedguards are not new. I am sure atleast some of you have used them before. FYI: From everything I have read patent pending does not actually offer any protection. The thing to do is file a provisional patent if you want to bring your product to market quickly, and then file for a full patent. I am not a patent attorney, but I read up on things when I can.
  2. Custom Aluminum mold question

    I use primarily 6061-T6 or 6061-T6511, because its the most economical aluminum that machines fairly well. 5052 is similar in price, but doesn't machine as well. 7075 machines "BETTER," but it costs a lot more. Those are all wrought alloys usually. 6061 doesn't cast with conventional methods worth a darn. I don't think 5052 or 7075 do either. There are also cast alloys that machine will. Those are great for plants that are setup to recycle. I can't speak to cost. I think 6061 is lower cost due to high production, because it is formable, machinable, and weldable. 5052 is also low cost due to higher production, because its formable, modestly machinable, very weldable, and much more corrosion resistant. Its probably one of the most popular "marine" alloys. 7075 is generally not considered weldable (except with very specialized methods), but it is highly corrosion resistant and very strong. Stronger than some steels. Wrought alloys will have some internal stresses due to their forming method. Cast alloys likely will be more homogeneous due to their forming method. I can very much see 6061 distorting when heated. Anyway, its quite likely that the OPs mold was made from Fortal or Mic-6 or some other machinable alloy the shop had on hand. I am sure different aluminum alloys will transfer heat at different rates just like other properties may differ.
  3. Molds

    I make lead casting molds all the time. Some are pretty interesting others are dead boring. I talked to Pamela a while back , and she told me if somebody was willing to pay my price for a mold she was out of stock on she didn't mind. Dolphin Sports molds is actually only a small part of their business. The problem is when somebody sees Hilts "used to" sell a diecast mold for ... well mass produced diecast pricing ... they just aren't going to pay CNC machined pricing much less custom pricing. When people ask me about one of her molds I try to refer them back to her, or I'll drop her an email and ask if its permanently out of stock or if its just a long wait from their die casting company. I actually bought a few of their molds for my collection.
  4. Molds

    The guys who bought Hilts dies for casting molds did not get all of the dies. Hilts was actually completely shut down and out of business for a while before Dolphin made the deal to buy what was still around.
  5. Magnets

    I don't care for using magnets in molds. For the most part its unnecessary. Once you get a feel for the mold it gets to be pretty easy to slide a hook or a keeper into its slot. Even if you have to wear glasses like I have had to for the last decade. Sometimes though the only way to get a piece of hardware to stay in place is with a magnet. This leads me to why I felt the need to post this. I learned recently that rare earth magnets have a failing. Above a certain temperature they loose their magnetism and that temperature is much lower than you might think. A little higher and they lose their magnetism permanently. These temps are below the melting temperature of lead. Now a mold rarely gets as hot as lead. Even if you set it on top of the lead pot to preheat, but it does get pretty hot. Hot enough that you have to wear gloves to handle it safely. Maybe closer than you might like to degmagnetizing temperature of the magnet. I didn't research other magnets as I like the strong holding force of even tiny rare earth (neodymium) magnets for these problematic applications. I discovered that for a little more money there were higher heat rated rare earth magnets. I check a couple sources. MSC didn't have any in a size I wanted. McMaster had one size that was useful. K&J had them much cheaper than McMaster, but they were further away and only shipped UPS. I ordered from both McMaster and K&J Magnetics. I actually had two molds that I couldn't come up with any other solution for. The first was done with the McMaster magnets and like other magnets I have ordered they were a little under their specified dimensions. They also did not seem to have a hard coating like most rare earth mags I have bought in the past. I just glued them in place with JB weld. The K&J magnets came in a few days later, and I miced them. I took measurements on 2 or 3 out of each pack. They were all within 0.0005" of target diameter, and about the same for target length. They also had the nice shiny nickel coating I am used to seeing. I machined tapered holes (.001 over at the top to .001 under at the bottom) to press the magnets into and they fit perfectly. I expect if you rapped the mold sharply on the bench you could knock them free, but neodymium magnets are pretty fragile. I didn't want to break them when pressing them in. Another thing learned. I hope it helps somebody else.
  6. 5IN Club O

    I've never used any glow powder, but I have two tail colors I make usually in this bait. Chartreuse (when I see lots of small gills in the grass) and black. You may be surprised, but I throw black tails more than chartreuse tails. Not gonna tell you why, but I bet you can figure it out. Unless the glow powder does something to make the plastic hard to remelt there is no reason it would not work. The tail mold is designed with a tapered cone and a round knob at the front so the body plastic completely surrounds it and it interlocks so you get a good fusion as well as a mechanical bond.
  7. jig hook, 28 or 30 degree, flat eye, size 5/0

    I guess I just missed that. Oops. Yeah there are not as many options for a flat eye.
  8. Any must have colors?

    Watermelon, black, white, pearl powder, chartreuse colorants. Red, silver, holo shad, black flake.
  9. Duck season

    Grackles are almost as smart as crows. You shoot a few and they sort of pass the word around.
  10. Sinking plastic question

    I posted an answer to your question on the gallery post.
  11. 5IN Club O

    When Texas rigged these kick the tail and swim forward on a slack line. I have not noticed when wacky rigged, because I just do not recall wacky rigging them. I've also had some luck using these as a fast swimbait on a lightly weighted hook. No kidding. Some very violent strikes. They are good as a twitch bait over grass. I think the reason is the heavier (salt and MF soft sinking) makes more impact and vibration through the plant when it falls down and hits the grass. Before I went over to molds only I used to sell these baits, but I have never sold a mold for them. I've been working on a more efficient program for them off and on, but I just never seem to get around to finishing it. Maybe because I secretly don't want anybody else to have them. LOL. I make these in 4+" and 5". I also made a tail mold for the 5". I've caught good fish on both sizes.
  12. Sinking plastic question

    I've got some old pictutes of them in the gallery.
  13. jig hook, 28 or 30 degree, flat eye, size 5/0

    91768
  14. Sinking plastic question

    Yes.
  15. Sinking plastic question

    A Club-O is a stickish bait I make for myself. I do not make a regular stick bait.