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CNC Molds N Stuff

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CNC Molds N Stuff last won the day on May 1 2019

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About CNC Molds N Stuff

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    Yuma, Az
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    Support the future of fishing. Support and promote youth fishing events and pro am or draw team clubs.

    "You can feed an infinite number of monkeys for an infinite amount of time while they randomly pound on an infinite number of typewriters or you can just buy a copy of your favorite works of William Shakespeare directly from Bill."
    ~Bob La Londe

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  1. I think the word custom (like many others) is used in many contexts to minimalize the works of others. To be more accurate, I think trying to narrowly define some words such as custom in many contexts is to diminish the efforts of others. "WELL! Its not custom if they didn't harvest the wood out of the jungle themselves and carve it to shape using their bush knife!" Come on guys. If you do better or more original work people will figure it out for themselves, and if they can't its not going to make any difference for you to diminish what somebody else does. "He doesn't do it as good," doesn't go as far as, "We try to go the extra mile."
  2. in another group somebody sent me a picture of a catalog page from the Hagens catalog. It shows EPS pellets or expandable polystyrene pellets. I'm going to have to check it out. The fellow who sent me that picture said he bakes his in the oven.
  3. Somedays I very much understand why Shawn Collins quit responding to a lot of people's emails. GAHHHH!
  4. I measure by volume using disposable pill cups so I can easily see the level. For positive buoyancy I usually go close to 50:50 resin:balloons by volume, but I make floating poppers that just float after hooks with as little as 67:33. They flat catch fish. The 2 part resins I measure by weight. Generally I go 50:50 resin:balloons on any bait that I will ballast to get a specific center of gravity and still want to float.
  5. P.S. It doesn't sound like a cast or poured urethane foam process either.
  6. Its some sort of foam or material that you put in the mold, boil it, and it swells to fill the mold. I've made a few cast resin molds for folks, but I don't understand this boiled foam process, what the material or media is, and the details of how its done. If I did I could make molds ideally suited to the process. Had a guy just buy my mini crank mold for this yesterday. If it works the way I am visualizing I don't see where it needs a casting sprue like a resin mold. Maybe just some vents.
  7. Recently the subject of hunting lures came up in a personal conversation. They seemed to think there was a formula or design strategy to achieve it predictably. Perhaps, but they didn't choose to share it with me. Like many things it has been floating around in the back of my mind. Not a primary focus of thought just one of a million things my subconscious has been working on while I do other things. This morning I was drinking my morning coffee and watching some mindless drivel on YouTube when it came to me that one of the most common ways of changing the action of a crank bait is to change the center of gravity. Higher or lower, front to back, why not left to right. I don't mean you should make a bait lopsided left to right, but rather make it so the primary ballast can shift significantly left to right. It might not be a true hunting pattern If I had mastered true random movement I'd have already claimed that million dollar prize for understanding and advancing the formulas for turbulent flow. More of a predictable and somewhat controllable wide switching pattern. As I think of it a little more maybe a dual CG**. There is generally only one CG, but if one had dual points of high density (like a binary sun). One maintains the balance of the bait to keep the bottom roughly down, and the other can shift to change the average CG left to right. The idea of multiple high density points lends itself to a whole separate field of study for crank bait actions. I only touch on it here as it might help achieve the goal of a bait that is pseudo random, giving the appearance of a "hunting." I've thought off some way it could be done with a moving tie point as well, but the issue there is the exposed mechanics to do that. Reel it through snot grass and the mechanism would be just as gummed up as swivel on your spinnerbaits in a similar location. FYI: My very first crank bait hunts or appears to hunt, and it has a fixed CG cast in resin. It was purely by accident. Not by design, but it shows the idea of a moving CG is NOT necessary to get the desired result. That bait is repeatable, and every one has the same issue. Its slow roll only. If you slow roll it then it hunts. If you burn it back it rolls over on its side. I know its repeatable, because I've cut half a dozen of that mold and if I make them the same way I get the same result. My idea was that by using a shifting CG or point density if you prefer that you could force a more predictable roll and recovery that had the appearance of hunting.
  8. I buy MF 5 gallons at a time and it takes me a couple years to go through it. I get yellowing sometimes, but its almost always when I get in a hurry. If I go slow, heat a little bit at a time and stir often it comes out fine. I have also never had a problem when using a Presto Pot with a stirring system be cause it heats more uniformly with the stirring system.
  9. I would expect testing to failure would generate more useful information than just testing to "good enough," even if "good enough" is the goal. Much like destructive crash testing of automobiles. I think it would allow me to choose my compromises rather then being stuck with them.
  10. In another group somebody mentioned clear ABS. I had to research it. Like Clear PVC pipe I didn't even know it was a thing until I looked. From what I read clear ABS is less impact resistant than even regular ABS, but I don't know what that means in the grand scheme of things. I think I'm just going to make some using different materials and conduct an exacting scientific stress and wear test, but tying them to a stick and beating them on the sidewalk.
  11. … and injectable in the same machines. Just slight adjustments in temperature and/or pressure at most. I figured I'd test with ABS. Easily injected, and takes paint fairly well.
  12. I've been playing with hard baits lately. I've made a few solid resin casting molds. They are ok, but have some limitations in my opinion. Not hand carved stuff either. That's not my thing. I have hand carved a couple baits, but it takes a lot of time and care I just don't have these days. I might machine carve a few wood baits. I've got a machine that mostly sits idle which would be good for it, but I want to look at a more production oriented solution. Not to do production, but to make what I want quickly (once I'm set up) and take it fishing. I'm of course taking cues from my favorite commercial baits like any "beginner," but I have some ideas of my own as well. I'm looking at hard thermos plastic injection. I've already got a piston plunger injection machine, and I'm about halfway through the build of a more serious pneumatically operated auger piston machine. Neither is primarily for anything to do with bait making or tackle making. Well that wasn't the intent to acquire/build them anyway. I had the opportunity to make a bunch of "other" parts for an unrelated endeavor and stepped in to do it. Now I have the capability and I plan to use it for my passion too. Its obvious that some production baits are 3 piece plus hardware. Left side, right side, bill, & hook hangers. Some are two piece. Just a left side and a right side. I suppose its possible some might 2 axis spin cast out of resin, but that's not where I am going with this particular project. The plan is a glue or fusion clamshell type shop made blank. My hold up isn't really the injection machines or the mold making. My hold up is plastic choices. There are a lot of them. I have a couple schools of thought and a few splintering of those ideas. Initially I'd like to make some with an integrated bill. The bill is part of the body. There are a few I can think of off the top of my head. Storm(tm) Thin Fins(tm) and Wiggle Warts(tm) have a bill made of the same opaque material as the body. Bomber(tm) also makes the Flat A(tm) with a clear body and clear bill obviously all one part (per side). I'm leaning more towards clear. I could color laser print an insert close the halves, and fish with it. No painting, no sealing, just add hooks and go fishing. This is where I get into a bit of a quandry. The most common clear thermos plastics are acrylic and polycarbonate. There is also a clear plastic sold as clear PVC pipe. I am sure there are others and there are plenty that are semi clear. The two I am most familiar with are acrylic and polycarbonate. The most know differences are that acrylic is more scratch resistant, less flexible when solid, and more likely to shatter when subjected to hard stresses. Acrylic may also be more prone to shatter from impact when cold, but I do not know that definitely. Polycarbonate is stronger (by a lot) but more formable when cold and scratches much easier. Polycarbonate takes some pretty extreme forces to shatter or break. Its more likely to deform. Even when used as bullet resistant glass the punctures are more of a distortion and tearing when a high enough power round is used. The formability of polycarbonate can be good or bad. I have a piece of 1/4" for the windshield of my small boat that I cold bent in the old Tennsmith(tm) sheet metal brake. Made for a good looking rigid windshield. I can imagine that for something like a crank bait it might sag or deform when left in a tackle box in a hot boat compartment in the Arizona sun. For my own use (which this is really gear to) I am leaning towards acrylic. I have had a Bomber Flat A break when fishing on a cold winter day, but to be fair it was old and had caught a lot of fish before one swam away with the back of the lure. I'm hoping for some experienced feedback with thermo plastics for this sort of application. I know this may not be the right group for technical material science knowledge, but there are some members with widely varying backgrounds and experiences. An opaque plastic is not out of the question, but I would hope for something better than the easily heat deformed plastics Storm and some other tackle makers used. ** I do not want to "duplicate" any of the baits named in this post. They are just good examples for illustration.
  13. I have a very similar looking reel mounted on the original rod in my rod rack. A couple buddies and I all bought one at K-Mart to go bluegill fishing one day some 20-25 years ago. We had a blast. I was wailing the redear on cheese balls, and one of my buddies had the fight of a lifetime when he stuck a 2 pound bass. When I get a moment I'll wander over to that part of the shop and take a look to see if I can add any insight.
  14. I don't think you're necessarily on a wrong path. You are just looking at the path pretty far in the future. Nor is it the wrong path to learn about any technology if you are a "maker." It might not do what you thought it would, but it still might help you get there... or it might take you somewhere better.
  15. There are printers that print carbon fiber reinforced resin. The ones I have seen prints from produce mediocre print quality, but as with many things I'm sure there was trade off with time and/or money. I think one of the fascinations many people have with 3D printing is that amazing feeling like when somebody on a Star Trek show walks up to a replicator and says, "Banana Split" and one is magically assembled in seconds before their eyes from nothingness. I get it, but never tell a magician, "Make me a banana split," or the next thing you feel may be somebody placing a cherry on your head. 3D printing is not a magic replicator. It won't be in my lifetime. It probably won't be in my children's lifetime. It is a useful tool. It can be used to make tools to make tools. It can be used for proof of concept and prototyping ideas. It can be used for one off parts. Having a family member who prints parts as part of their business you should already have some understanding of this. That dream of one day being able to pick up your television remote and saying "Alexa, Print me a motorcycle," is necessary. That dream of something fantastic is what drives innovation, but picking up a tool and bloodying your knuckles using a wrench are what get things done. Atleast for today. There are many ways a 3D printer can be used right now. In the fishing tackle industry I could 3D print an end product. I have at my disposal (belongs to my son) a small 3D resin printer. I could print a fishing lure. At the end of designing and printing (from a couple to several hours) I would have a fishing lure. If I lost my fishing lure in the bushes I could print another one. After a couple hours I'd have a replacement. Its not ideal. Its somewhat fragile compared to other materials. It needs a fair amount of secondary processing before it is 100% usable. Still it works... I could print a mold for a fishing lure. Its still fragile. The fishing lure would be produced faster at that point, but if my mold breaks from continuous handling (and it will) I have to start over. What I did with my first foray into 3D printing in collaboration with my son was 3D print a master mold. I used this to produce silicone molds. I used the silicone molds to produce strong fishing lures from casting resins with a pre-bent wire form set into the mold. While the 3D printer does not produce good product, and its very slow to do it, it can help to produce a tool that produces a tool that produces a tough durable product. The castable resin I use takes about 12 minutes to cure enough to demold. With additives I give it 20 minutes so it won't break when I pull it out of the silicone mold. It takes about 6 hours for the silicone I use to cure. It took about 4 hrs per side to print the master mold. The spent about 4 hrs on a rotating table to finish curing in the sun. It took me about 2 hours to design it. So it took 20 hours and 20 minutes to produce 1 bait. (Really they also need a full 24hrs to fully cure) Seems pretty abysmal compared to printing one lure in maybe 2 hours, BUT (and its a big BUT) its still faster than using the 3D printer to directly print a lure in a couple hours. I've made three of those silicone molds now, and I can make more. Right now I could walk out to the shop and produce 3 lure blanks every 20 minutes. It takes me working by myself less than 10 minutes to bend 3 wire forma, prep the resin, and cast it in 3 molds. So really I can produce right now 3 lure blanks every 20 minutes. Its not as fast as injection molding a hard plastic like ABS or polycarbonate, but its a lot faster then whittle one out of a stick with a knife. I could double my production easily by just making 3 more silicone molds, and I used the 3D printer to allow me to do that easily. It only takes a few minutes to mix up a batch of silicone, and I don't have to stand there for six hours waiting for it to cure. Six of those easily produced silicone molds could allow me to produce a lure blank with eyelets already installed every 3 minutes and 20 seconds. I'm not saying you should use the process I used to produce lure blanks. Just that 3D printing wasn't up to the job. It was however a very useful tool in the process when resulted in a pretty decent production rate. Its not yet the end all product, but it was very important to this process. You can't build an engine very effectively with just a forge, but it can be a very useful part of the process. If you want to read more about my process for making lures this way I wrote up my experience on my fishing forums. http://yumabassman.com/forums-new/index.php/topic,10071.0.html Sorry. you can't see the pictures unless you are logged on, but here is a picture of one of the misprints just for fun.
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