CNC Molds N Stuff

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CNC Molds N Stuff last won the day on December 9 2017

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About CNC Molds N Stuff

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    http://www.cncmolds.com

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    Yuma, Az
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    Support the future of fishing. Support and promote youth fishing events and pro am or draw team clubs.

    "You can feed an infinite number of monkeys for an infinite amount of time while they randomly pound on an infinite number of typewriters or you can just buy a copy of your favorite works of William Shakespeare directly from Bill."
    ~Bob La Londe
    www.CNCMOLDS.com

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  1. Home Brew Rod Drier - Turner

    Yeah, I have experienced the yellowing of five minute. It also gets brittle when it yellows. Works great for tip tops, but on wraps it just doesn't hold up. I definitely found that out the hard way. LOL.
  2. First Jigs Ever!

    That's just generally a nice looking jig.
  3. Home Brew Rod Drier - Turner

    I'm not quite sure where you are going with that? I already have a gear motor with enough torque to spin a dozen rods if I want to. I can speed control it just by varying the voltage or with pulse width modulation. I have the controls to do either on the shelf. Just really haven't messed with it. Mostly I use it for rod drying.
  4. CNC Router

    I started out with a Taig. With a spacer on the Y axis, and a lot of care a 2019 will do 6x12 molds. The V-lead machine isn't really capable of both speed and accuracy at the same time. If its tight it can be made to cut fairly accurate parts except that some types of finish have an issue with Z height. It won't be fast. A counter weight or an air cylinder to keep the Z tensioned against the nut might help, but my Taig has been on a shelf for years. You can make a lot of molds with a Taig. I made hundreds and hundreds of them, and completely rebuilt that machine a couple times. The newer Taig's with the ballscrew option look promising, but there is a pretty big price jump. I tried a small cheap CNC router and I "could" make molds on it. One guy here on TU was making molds at one time with a plastic frame Fireball router. I felt my aluminum frame router was still to flimsy. I still run it from time to time to machine wood and plastics, but I never use it for mold making. I did use it a couple times to make other aluminum parts when my mills where all busy and I needed a part with minimal accuracy specs. Some are built better than others though. If you search on YouTube you will find there are a few guys roughing steel upto medium carbon on better built aluminum frame and steel frame home made routers. The term router is misleading though. There are "bridge mills" with a gantry type setup similar to what people call a router with massive capabilities. Its really about how heavy and how rigid the machine is. Heavier means more harmonic damping (usually). Less vibration. Rigid obviously means less flex under load. A well built "router" can certainly make molds. In fact one of the Chinese companies markets a small bridge mill as a mold maker. Even their small one though is made out of cast iron with a fixed bridge and a moving table. Not bolted up aluminum extrusions. If it wasn't for the typical "kit" build you usually see from Chinese made lower price machines I'd probably buy one. I just don't have the time to rebuild new machines anymore. When I buy a machine it has to work. Yes I have a couple Chinese machines, and yes I had to rebuild them when they arrived. LOL. I am not saying an aluminum frame "router" machine can't be made to be adequate for machining aluminum molds. They certainly can. Even a flimsy cheap one can if you only use light low power cuts. Like I said even a plastic machine "can" as is proven by one of the TU members who used one for it. For reasonable cutting forces though you need machine with a little more mass and structure a little thicker than 8020 knockoff extrusions. VeloxCNC (Used to be K2CNC) makes a modestly robust CNC router for example, but their price shows it. Its a lot more expensive than a Chinese 3040 import. Even among the "cheap" Chinese imports there is a range. Some come with a puny little brush motor and others come with a proper high speed water cooled spindle. Mine was so cheap it came with a rotary hand piece driven by a flex shaft motor hanging on a hook. I have since put a small wood router on it since I use it mostly for cutting wood and plastic. Some come with motors and drivers that barely push them and others are cable of rapids f several hundred inches per minute and enough push to bend the machine if you aren't careful. Coolant is pretty important for cutting aluminum, but a swamp cooler pump in a bucket, a mortar tub for the machine, and a plastic pipe frame with a shower curtain on it is enough for some folks. No kidding. I've seen it. Of course when throwing water around electricity you have to take some care not to fry your machine or yourself. I was afraid to run water soluble coolant on my Taig when I was running molds on it, so I used flood transmission fluid. It worked great, but my work shop always smell like a burned up transmission. LOL. Now I run Master Chemical SC520 at 5-8% solution in distilled water depending on what I am cutting. John Herzog (owns Taig) specified that you should never run a water based or water soluble coolant on his machines, but I think he was more concerned with a galvanic response between the different metals his machines are made of. I hope you get into it. Its both fun and rewarding when you start to have some success.
  5. Silicone Mold Issue

    Talcum powder is kind of magic. I use a flux brush myself to lightly dust molds. I buy the flux brushes in bags of 36 I think at HF for a few dollars. They work great as resin brushes and I just throw them away when used for that. I try to keep two or three bags on hand so I never run out. Like popsicle sticks. Remember that talcum powder is like any other easily airborne powder. It can get in your lungs, and long term use has been linked to health issues. I'd strongly suggest wearing a dust mask while using it. Johnson and Johnson recently lost a very large health related lawsuit regarding their baby powder products.
  6. Jig mold suppliers

    I remember when everybody was bitching and complaining when they couldn't get any Hilts molds at all. LOL. Oh, well. I guess we can't all be Amazon. If she doesn't have it then she doesn't have it.
  7. Soft Sinking Plastisol

    I buy non-iodized restaurant salt at the local box store in a 25lb bag. I store it in a sealed pickle bucket to keep it from drawing moisture out of the air. That reminds me. I just ran out.
  8. Jig mold suppliers

    I've bought a couple molds from Pamela. I just e-mail her first to see if they have them or if its one they are waiting on a production run of that one.
  9. Plastic oil removal

    I saw your post on Facebook. Sorry I didn't get back to you. I don't know if this helps, but it seems some baits appear to keep excreting oil until they are dried up husks. Some of the pthalate free plastics seem to be worse for this, but I've found that not thoroughly bringing the plastic up to temperature once during the initial heating cycle seems to be a related issue. Since you are buying the tails this is not something you can control. Buying from a bulk provider like BPS would seem like a good solution, but even the big boys have problems once in a while. I would guess BPS plastics are all made in China by the lowest bidder. Your short term solution might just be to ask somebody here to make your tails for you. We don't really have any business to business (B2B) exchange area here on TU, but there is a classifieds section. I like the idea of incorporating a screw lock or other bait keeper.
  10. Excise Tax Issue

    Call the IRS. It took me a while to get through to somebody who could help, but then they were very helpful. A few investigative field agents may want to make that big score, but the people in the office just want to get paid. The best way to get paid for them is to make sure you know how to do your part. Like I said they were very helpful. Big scores might make a field agents career, but the vast bulk of revenue is self reported and voluntarily paid by people who just want to stay on the good side of the law.
  11. Copic Airbrush System

    I had somebody yesterday telling me about the Copic airbrush system, and it sounded intriguing so I looked it up and watched a couple videos. It sounds like a basic non-adjustable setup from what I have seen so far. Also the statement by one user in a video that you have to use the Copic markers kind of set off an alarm with me. It seems like a simple easy system to use with little or no cleanup at the expensive of only being able to use one kind of paint, and basically having a system that's good for stenciling, but not so much for any detail hand work. I guess that might be okay for hard baits (if they have the colors you want), but might leave out soft bait painters. I've been slammed on this forum before for offering an opinion of something without owning one, so I would like to hear the opinions of anybody who is actually using one. I know its possible to do great or atleast acceptable work with limited tools. I've painted hard baits with a rattle can, and then finished details with a rattle can and stencils so I know its possible to create fish catching color patterns with very limited tools. I used use paint markers to add details to some factory baits as well. I know some hear use nail polish creatively as well. Anyway, I am curious. Is the Copic airbrush is capable of more than just rattle can and stencil painting.
  12. solder or weld an hook?

    In the 90s you might have even had a decent epoxy. Not this 1/5 minute crap that seems to be all we can find today at the common sources. 1 & 5 minute has very specific uses, but in my experience are NOT anywhere near as strong as the old school epoxy where you clamped up the part and DID NOT TOUCH IT for 24 hours. It just occurs to me since you had low temperature failures an epoxy like Flex-Coat might give you a little more range. Also the hook flexes even at what we consider low temperatures. A straight glue up probably would not hold up as well as a wrap. I am just guessing of course. LOL.
  13. solder or weld an hook?

    I think many modern hooks may be a work hardening alloy. I think this is why certain hooks have press flats on the sides after they were formed. To my knowledge, heating and then rapid cooling in oil is known as heat treating and the specific act of dunking in oil is called quenching. Tempering is when you then reheat to a known temperature so it is less hard and less brittle. Much of hook making is steeped in mystery in the tackle business, but in metal working making metals to different degrees of hardness or toughness (not the same thing) is pretty well documented. We have been doing it for a couple thousand years. I expect if I dedicated a month or two (maybe less) just to working on to it I could learn to make decent quality hooks a couple different ways. Its just not worth it unless I was bankrolled to go into hook making in a big way. I expect any custom spring maker could make hooks if they wanted to with little research. Getting back to the OP. Yes Anglinarcher is correct in that heating the hook will likely soften it. Maybe even to its fully annealed state. I wouldn't even consider welding one. You might (maybe) be able to make your "eye" or loop by wrapping some wire around the hook leaving a loop and then carefully soldering it with a suitable flux. The key is going to be how quickly you can perform the soldering process and how low of a temperature you can solder at. I don't think I would even consider silver solder temperatures, and I've had mixed luck wetting out lead solder to hooks. Perhaps if you abrade the hook surface first it might wet out better. I'd probably start out with a search engine result for "low temperature soldering." An alternative to solder with no heat might be to use the wrapped wire method described above and then glue it with something like JB-Weld or PC7. Again, I think you would need to abrade the hook in order to get a decent bond. Just my opinions of course.
  14. copy machine

    redg8r pasted a video of a copy machine ages ago, but I was not able to find it last time I looked. Might be a worth a YouTube search though. I don't think it was the only one. I know having seen a couple I really would not need plans to build one. Yep. A Youtube search for crankbait copy machine resulted in several good results. All the first 5-6 or so results looked good. Pantagraph duplicator or carver might also be a good item to search for. I've seen one setup for "manual" operations that does half dozen copies at a time. The one I recall wasn't being used for lures, but it could be.
  15. Stupid and Easy

    Yeah, I get that. Sometimes thread titles suck me in like that too. LOL.