CNC Molds N Stuff

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About CNC Molds N Stuff

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    Yuma, Az
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    Support the future of fishing. Support and promote youth fishing events and pro am or draw team clubs.

    "You can feed an infinite number of monkeys for an infinite amount of time while they randomly pound on an infinite number of typewriters or you can just buy a copy of your favorite works of William Shakespeare directly from Bill."
    ~Bob La Londe

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  1. I'm looking for a largish screw lock to go in a jig mold I am working on. I see the two from Do-It, but what I am looking for is a little larger. Maybe a 0.200" diameter coil made with 0.030" wire. Simple right angle turn on the tag that goes in the head of the jig. They should have about 4 turns over a coil length of around 0.35-0.45 (plus or minus a little of course). I'm not looking for a custom run. I'm looking for a stock item. I'd make the mold fit the coil.
  2. I'd look up the original patent date, but I am pretty sure Bob Rickard had a patent on that quick clip spinner bait design. I don't know if Joe has kept it upto date or not. Joe sent me buzzbaits with with both colorado and willow blades. All connected the SWL quick clip. The others are probably in my boat. Of course the tried and true split ring and a swivel as you said you are using isn't covered even if their patent is current. Since I figured out how to fish my Curly Buzz Frog I hardly ever throw buzzbaits anymore. The main thing is I can flick it back in, thru, and under the trash, or drag it over grass and limbs without fouling the way a buzzbait does.
  3. Here are some shots that might help you get going with yours.
  4. Gages are like any other measuring tool. You get what you pay for. I've really run into that with air gunning were pressures are at the opposite extreme. Blows me away when I see a gun you paid a stupid amount of money for with a no-rating gage that's off by 600 PSI (or more). Never trust the gage on the gun except as a percentage of full, and maybe not even then. I count shots myself.
  5. I've actually seen a vacuum venturi get down to right at 28 inches, but it wasn't the cheap one you find at Harbor Freight. I admit I was surprised. I've built a couple and bought one when playing with some other ideas. None of mine pulled that much, but then I didn't leave them on a sealed chamber for an extended period either. I never degassed plastisol, but I think we had an argument discussion about this once before.
  6. One of the keys to long life with vacuum pumps is service. They get badly contaminated after they get used a lot, and almost nobody ever services them. I've seen more than one refrigeration tech bring one in with it all frozen up, and you can tell it bounces around his truck from site to site and never gets service. When I serviced the refrigeration equipment for our grocery store as a kid growing up my dad service our pump after everytime he used it, and then he would snap it into a plastic bucket to keep the dust off. He still has it and it still works 40 years later. He also did refrigeration work for a lot of the farms around the area. (I just worked on our stuff.) A cheap method of pulling a low vacuum is with a venturri pump, and contamination is not an issue, but I've yet to use one that could pull 29+ inches. When I say cheap. I mean for the pump. Not the cost of use. The use a lot of air. I've seen a few advertised that make some pretty bold claims, but I'd be glad to see one that meets its claim.
  7. FYI: Dental burrs may be a cheap option for slot cutting operations. I've been told you can find them for less then a dollar apiece in bulk lots, but I usually see them from 1.50-2.50 each on Ebay. Its still cheaper than a carbide end or ball mill for somebody who is doing light hand driven passes and is likely to break a few.
  8. When I was playing with different spindle ideas for my first little toy CNC mill I looked at Dremel tools, Dremel flex shaft tools, and Craftsman versions there of. I was not particularly impressed. Too much run out, and not great spindle nose support. Basically barely suitable for very light duty hand work at best. Then I looked to proper flex shaft drive rotary hand pieces and found them to be a head and shoulders step up all the way around. At the time Harbor Freight had one for about $50 with motor, shaft, and hand piece. (no longer available) I bought two of them. They had a little drill chuck on the hand piece the bearings were decent, and there was amazingly little slop and runout. I still have those hand pieces and I still use them from time to time. When I decided to take the next step up I bought a couple Foredom hand pieces. I found they actually had a little more slop than the HF ones so I contacted Foredom and they said they were a little loose so they would not heat up as bad and would last longer, but they had a tight tolerance heavy duty hand piece that might work for me. I got one, and its a freaking tight, fast awesome piece of art. I never did actually use it as a continuous duty fixed mount spindle, but I did mount the HF hand pieces. In fact I mounted both of them. I made a mount that held one in a fixed position, and allowed me turn up or down the other one and then lock it in place. That allowed me to cut two mold blanks at the same time on one machine. I cut atleast a dozen molds that way before I decided that little toy Taig just wasn't up to working that hard. I wouldn't hesitate to use a rotary hand piece as the spindle for a "home made" drill press for high speed drilling and maybe some milling (as you guys seem to be describing), but the Dremel tools I have are just taking up valuable space on my tool wall. I think I'll take them down and toss them in my gar(b)age sale box. I have not used them for anything in years.
  9. I bought some soft plastic eyes and soft bait glue from Spike-It to play with. A lot of times I buy things like this just to check them out. In this case I really wanted to try it out to see if it was a cure to dipping hard eyes. I have a couple soft baits I make for myself that really pop with eyes on them, but I hated ruining the lines of the bait with a dipped layer of plastisol. I'm sure this has all been tested and either tried and true or dismissed for many, but this thread is about my experiences with it. When I was ordering I noticed that the large can says PVC cement and the smaller dispenser bottle says bait glue or something like that. I immediately wondered if PVC pipe cement would work. I'll try that eventually, but I wanted to keep this initial trial pure to the product. I do have some pipe cement around. I've glued a few miles of conduit and pipe over the years. (probably a few hundred miles) Working with the eyes was just as fiddly as working with the regular 3D hard(ish) eyes I have been using. I'm thinking I'll want to get a wide blade pair of tweezers for them eventually. My big fingers find it tricky to hold them by the face leaving the back clear to apply cement. The instructions say to coat both surfaces with cement and stick them together... just like PVC pipe cement. I got a bait ready (just one for now), opened the little dispenser bottle, and noticed it smells just like pipe cement. I'm definitely going to try some. I did notice that the bottle from Spike-It had a nice fine dispenser brush and that the cement seemed to be thick, but not at all stringy or gloppy. It might have a different or more reducer or thinning agent of some kind as opposed to the cans of pipe cement from the hardware store. Then again a fresh can of pipe cement isn't to bad either. I stuck the eyes on the bait and left the shop. I believe it said to leave it for 30 minutes or something like that on the instructions. It was late, and it was one of the last things I did last night before heading into the house. Well, I shut down the air dryer, closed the air distribution valve, and turned off all the lights. Today or tomorrow I'm going to see how well stuck those eyes seem to be. If it fuses as well as water pipe or electrical conduit does my hard eyes will only ever get used again for hard baits. Unfortunately I've got household chores to get done today too.
  10. I was looking over my bait wall just last night to see if I still had some of those buzzbaits. I think the first one I had was white/black (shad pattern) head with a silver (raw) buzz blade, mostly white with some silver or black skirt, and chrome willow blade. I could not find it, but I did find a brand new one still in the package with a black buzz blade and a black colorado blade. I snapped some pictures on my phone to post for you. When I am at the shop computer where I sent the pictures I'll post them for you.
  11. Secret Weapon Lures released a buzzbait with a willow blade behind the buzz blade a number of years ago. Joe H sent me a few to play with. I actually didn't care for it on first impressions. Inspite of that I gave it a fair shake. First time out it nailed a 6.5 for me, and the next day in an afteenoon/evening tournament I got big fish on it with a 7.02. Its a good bait. The SWL bait did have a regular skirt on it.
  12. When I uses eyes on jigs and spinnerbaits I paint over them with a bit of clear epoxy resin. Unfortunately I've only seen the clear (should be called sort clear) in fast setting so I only do about 10 baits at a time, and then only if I have everything all laid out ready to coat.
  13. Excellent. I've done some hollow work for various things, but I really like the idea of going in through the eyes and then covering the holes the way you describe. If you use a soft plastic eye and soft plastic glue you wouldn't even have to dip. Dipping works, but I think it kinda ruins the lines of some baits too. However, I'd like to remind you guys that often when a soft bait is hollow it gets limp and doesn't perform well. I'm sure most of us have had it happen when we get in a hurry and our technique suffers. You need to plan your hollow cavities so that you still have plenty of meat to support the bait's shape.
  14. I used to use super soft with about 1/3 cup salt to 1 cup plastisol when I started. When I switched to M-F soft sinking I dropped down to 1/4 cup of salt to 1 cup of plastisol. I quit comparing my baits to Senkos(r) a long time ago. Then again I don't pour a true Senko knockoff either. I pour my own bait I call a Club-O. I get great casting distance, good fall rate, I've caught plenty of fish, and even won a couple tournaments with them.