Uncle Grump

Woodieb8 Sorry - but explosions caused by static electricity from "ungrounded " plastic pipe / duct collectors is a urban legend. Plastic is a non-conductor of electricity - so how can you ground it? This has been thrown around for years - not happened yet. Can wood dust be exploded from a spark? - Yes - it can, but the concentrations must be EXTREMELY high - so high you couldn't be in the room and work. There are many wood workers who have dust collection systems built using PVC pipe and no problem. To get a idea of how concentrated dust must be for it to explode - think in terms of a grain elevator - where tons and tons of corn and other grain is processed (and for long durations - think in terms of years) - they have issues with dust and sparks - but a home shop and a dremel - not going to happen. UG

Can Devcon 2T (or equivalent) be thinned? If so what is the thinning agent? Thks UG

I'd suggest the use of .22 magnum shells if you go that route - more room for bb's, etc. As far as Nova's question regarding sealing them, do the same as brake line - pinch them shut (another reason for the .22 mag case - longer - more room/length to work with), and seal w/ JB Weld, epoxy, etc. UG

Hello Salty Just found this thread - watched your videos - very impressive...... I am a wood tuner - just barely - still learning my lathe, etc - speed control, tool manipulation, etc is all done by hand. Naturally - I has questions.... Are you using carbide tools? How smooth a finish can you get? Do you have the equivalent of a skew chisel for a cutter? Your wood is what species? Thanks UG

Ted Congratulations - if that is the correct word to use here in this situation - you've been helping people - passing out information you've learned discovered - I've been the recipient of it - and want to say "thanks" - you are a stand up fellow. UG

I read the section on Fluxing Lead, and found this sentence very interesting....."What’s more, as the sawdust chars on top of the melt, it forms activated carbon, which is a high surface area, porous sorbent material that has a large number of binding sites capable of binding Lewis acid cations like Ca, Zn and Al. So it not only keeps the tin reduced and in solution, but it effectively scavenges those impurities that raise the surface tension and viscosity of the alloy (Al, Zn and Ca), keeping the alloy in top shape for making good bullets." Sorry about the double post.... UG

I read the section on Fluxing Lead, and found this sentence very interesting.....

The tutorial pics are gone, and the links are dead. Can anyone fix this? UG

Any chance you could post a pic? UG

Bee Sweet looking boat..... Did you use plans from some where? Any idea what it weighs? Materials? Stitch and loop? Thanks UG

Saffie Take a look at the Berkey Blade Dancer - it has a profile similar to the pic that was posted. UG

JSC Your's looks to be a industrial strength rack. Uff-Da! UG

G-Dawg Here is a pic of one I made using the rack from my toaster oven. I picked up some 90 degree brackets, screw/nuts, and all thread rod at my local hardware emporium. Took a little work a hack saw and drill. I can handle 2 differant jig/hook heights, on the right side is some wire I strung between the front and back rows to support additional jigs..... The tin foil acts as a drip pan.... Hope this helps.... UG

Excellant build - loved the last pic. Is that a Gator boat? UG

Davy I am guessing that you are using a Do-it mold, such as the EF-3858 or EM-3858. My molds indicate that the hook required is a Mustad 3366G - in the 2/0 / 3/0 sizes - the gold hook you want. According to information I got last summer - Mustad discontinued making this model hook - but there may be some out there if you look around - ie your local tackle emporium or online purveyor of fine tackle making gear. That said - I just looked at the Mustad web site, and I see the 3366G is still listed, so maybe they (Mustad) changed their mind. I've got some 3366G's on hand - and if they aren't available when I run out, I will likely switch to the 3366's (bronze). Another thought I've had w/ regard to hooks for my inlines is using a offset shank hook (soft plastic 'worm' hooks) on my inlines - and using soft plastic twister tails, etc on them. Hope this helps UG

BBK I would give your ability to use your shot for pouring a qualified yes. It could be made of soft lead, but my guess is that it has hardener's in it - making it closer to hard lead - ie wheel weights. It all depends on how old that shot really is... #5 shot is 'bird shot' - for upland game - ie pheasants, turkey, rabbit, squirrel, etc. Soft lead shot deforms when passing thru a shotgun barrel and the guns choke - the tighter the choke - ie a full choke, the more chance there is of deformed pellets - and deformed pellets are typically flyers, which don't pattern. Shot shell manufacturers/gun manufacturers found that the way to keep pellets in a pattern is to keep them round, and to keep them round was to make them harder - as in using hard lead, in addition to other tricks like thicker wads, etc. I'm not saying you won't be able to pour your jigs - but it may depend on the molds you bought and the size(s). There are numerous posts here on TU where folks talk about pouring the Ultra minnow - and in nearly every thread, there is the caveat - you need to use soft lead. You may find you need to add some soft lead to your shot - ie a 50-50 mix, etc. Try it - its the only way you will know for certain. Best of luck UG

Yup - did the same thing. In my case, I found a hose which has POL threads on one end (cylinder), and 1lb cylinder threads on the other (stove end). The hose should be available at any sporting goods (ie camping, etc) store - I want to say it was $15 +/-. Works well. UG

Bugpac Questions for you: What size cavities on the spinner bait mold? Do you still have it? The shad darts - do you still have the JD7A or the JD8-3264 molds? Thanks UG

CRUD!!! I just found out I got drawn for a spring turkey license - and the season dates overlap with the Get Together.... UG

I would like to attend - think I could learn a whole bunch. I got the time (vac days) on the books, now if I can convince wifelet..... UG

Hybrideye See this thread....me thinks you have your melting temp to high. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/13354-lead-quality/ UG

What Bommer said. I've been paying $.75/lb for that when I can get it. You anywhere close to SE Minnesota? UG

Guys I am not moving 15K jigs - not even close. The most I make at a time is a couple hundred - these are for myself and friends. No sales here. Much of my lead is still "raw" - as it came from the scrap yard. Some of it - being sheet lead - is in large - odd size bundles from being folded up. I have access to the pallet mover, as it belongs to my son - he stores seed corn / soybeans in my shed, and needs to be able to move the pallets of seed - So I've got the empty pallets, and the mover available (right now). The shed is in a state of flux all the time - stuff is always getting moved around - to make room for the latest project or sweeping, etc. My ingots are made using a muffin tin (Salvation Army thrift store) - store them in a 5 gallon pails. Vodkaman's idea for the small cart/trolley - this is the type of idea I was after - I was having a brain fart - not thinking along those lines. I could make a cart w/ some heavy duty casters and some 2x6s - put several pails on it, and some room for the larger hunks. Thanks for the ideas/suggestions. UG

WVEric I've painted a few spinner baits - I've tryed the method Cadman mentions - a paint brush - where you load paint on to the brush - then tap the brush w/ your finger to drop the paint on to the head (this is how you do it - right Cadman?)... I either don't have the technique right, or am to heavy w/ the finger tap - but I don't get a coverage I am happy with.... What I've found I can do - with a artists paint brush - is paint the head somewhat like using liquid paint.... Heat the head (I use a heat gun on low - about 750F), then w/ a paint loaded paint brush, lightly skim the bristles of the brush over the head. You don't want to apply pressure like you would w/ liquid paint - as then the paint will melt and glue the bristles to the head. The amount of pressure I am referring to is just enough to draw the paint off the brush and on to the head. Doing it this way, I can get the paint where I want it. So far, I've done up to three colors this way.... If I get to heavy w/ the pressure, and the paint does melt on the brush - pull it away quick, and run my fingers thru the bristles to break up the melted paint / strings... I'm not great artist - not like some of the guys here - but we're talking about paint on a lure that is moving thru water of various levels of murk - along w/ the splashing and disturbance of the blades - I don't think the fish can spot the differance... UG