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Posts posted by BJBarron
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Thin superglue sand high spots then epoxy. Thats my routine.
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I use the small disposable lip gloss brushes. I get them from amazon.
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Anytime
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No sir i do not. I just pour it into my dollar store container and dip and drip thin hang. Simple as that.
1. After initial shaping I put it on the holder.
2. Dip and drip then sit over night to dry.
3. Then I sand again with the sanding drum with the sading paper with scotch brite pads together to knock of raised grain.
4. Drill belly holes and glue in belly weights.
5. Dip and drip and dry over night.
6. Dip and drip, dry over night.
7. Ready for paint.
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Anytime, Thank you sir.
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Tightbond III use it as a dip and hang till it dries 2 to 3 coats will usually do the job.
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I get mine off Amazon. I get the break boards they use in karate to hit and break. It comes in 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" thickness and 8.5" x 11"
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Anytime. I posted a picture this morning of some cranks I painted last night. That will show you the nail and clothes pin method.
The front hanger was put in when I put my first sealer coat on. Bill slot is cut right before paint.
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I don't think there is a per say best way but there is a best way for each builder. This a couple choices I have used and still using just depends on what mood and what weight balsa I'm using.
Thin Super Glue: absorbs well, dries fast, makes a good hard suface, but I can't stand the smell.
Waterproof Wood glue: No oder, easy brush on, absorbs well, makes a good hard surface, I use 2 coats then dry overnight.
Counter top epoxy (Lowes): My current method. Thin, absorbs well, cures hard, needs at least a full day cure time.
This is my current method for my wood cranks.
1. After sanding I put it on it holder (i use the nail and clothes pin) I use the table top epoxy, brus it on just what the wood can absorb and let it sit over night to cure. No rotation.
2. Sand if any lose grain pops up.
3. I apply one more coat to give me a good surface the paint and I use a turner for this step and let it turn and cure overnight.
Hope this helped more than it confused you.
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I got my iwata eclispe hp cs from hobby lobby its was 140 I think but I used one of there coupons. You can go to shop hobby lobby online and use the coupon too. I got my car compressor from harbor freight it's tankless and is quieter than my refrigerator. It was 79 or 89 dollars.
I love the both of them. The brush comes with the .35 needle but I also bought the .5 needle nozzle cap and field cap for the thicker paints from tcp comes as a kit.
Hope that helps.
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I have a flipping paca bait color I love but it doesn't come in a smaller profile bait. I like having two sizes. Its called perfection by netbait. I can send some of the baits if anyone is interseted. Beaver style or craw would be fine
Thanks
BJ Barron
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That's why I just keep to the basic shad patterns. It keeps the cusing down and my brushes in one piece... Lol
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Thanks I emailed you...
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I'm looking for some unpainted seedless flipping jigs. The problem is I do not won't the weedguard in. Ill do that after I paint them. Oh arky, sparky, or s type head. 5/8 or 1/2 oz. would work.
Thanks fellas
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I think some type of floursent fire tiger would be one I would think or the Cossa river slayer the ghost shad.
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I use a scroll saw to cut out the blank then I use a cut in half pill bottle with sand paper glued to the inside to round the edges over. That's all I use for the flatsided baits.
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I was cruising jannsnetcraft and they are now carrying belly weights 4 different sizes. Sorry if I'm late to the round table with that.
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Merry Christmas to you and family. Also to everyone on here a Merry Christmas to you too.
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I ran across one while looking for plastic blanks ill check my laptop tomorrow to see if I saved the site. They were charging $15 a a ready to paint balsa blank.
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I was looking for a quick answer. I just did shoot them one.
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Anyone know how thick are there flat balsa blanks?
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Photo finishing is a option.
Wire for Hook hangers
in Hard Baits
Posted
I use stainless and brass cotter pins from MC Master and Carr.