grinder

Thanks for all the advice, one can save alot of experimentation time, asking those with the knowledge.

Hello friends, I would like to know where exactly one would place an internal rattle in a small crank (2"-3"). Near the tail I would guess,(most amount of side to side movement), but also not to interfere with the tail screw eye obviously. Is the insertion made vertically from the top or bottom, or horizontally from the side? Any help much appreciated! thanks........Jeff

My neighbor has thrown out some old dining room chairs for garbage pick up. There are lots of turned legs and spindles etc, most likely cherry or stained birch. Seems like a waste to not try and fabricate something from this free material. Is there potential for any lures here?

Thanks for the replies. I used a coat hanger bent in a "U" shape as mentioned. Worked out nice. I think I will eventually build an adjustable jig with springs, to free up a hand.

I am going to paint my first jointed lure, and need some advice. I usually hold by the lip, or one of the line ties. So how does one keep the jointed lure static in one plane? I want to have pattern consistancy with both segments, but need to keep the end from waggling around while spraying. Short of building an elaborate jig, is there an easy way?

A forstner bit has a small triangular point in the center for lining up your hole. It doesn't wander like a regular drill bit. I see no harm in a pilot hole, keep it small in diameter though.

I use forstner wood bits for drilling ballast holes. Nice and clean, flat bottomed holes.

Is there an easy way to clean off residual adhesive on a lexan lip, after removing masking tape? Or, is there an alternative masking material that won,t leave goo after peeling it off?