Matt Moreau

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Matt Moreau last won the day on January 13

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About Matt Moreau

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  1. something brighter than alu tape?

    heat transfer foil! Its used on Tshirts and such. Harder to use than alum tape but when done right end product is much better and tons of color options. I havce tried with just warming the lure but results were not good. now just spray some adhesive on the bait let tack apply the foil and use like an eraser or something to rub it down REALLY REALLY well.
  2. How to get speckles on crank baits

    I struggle with this technique! I have tried like Benton suggested with a straw and just made a mess LOL. Sea sponge, ripped sponge, stencil dottied with wood burner, tape, geez I have tried them all. I have tried loading like Benzin but never took the front two shrouds off the brush I will have to try that. When I was experimenting with this technique I had to reduce the more than normal like 2:1 to get the best results. Do you guys do this with the shrouds off? What paints are you using? I mainly use createx when I care about the paintjob otherwise walmart 50 cent apple barrel and thinner baby! HEHE
  3. What Is It

    I have no clue what it is but I love it!!!!
  4. Airbrushing DIY Candy Acrylics

    Interesting I will follow this thread. I have tried "over reducing" methods but nothing ever worked all that good. I just finally broke down and bought candy colors. lol Candy red craw....delta....right now.....BOOM! ;-p
  5. Tacky Etex

    I agree with above too but even when i used syringes I had problems until I actually timed how long I mixed. I found If I use syringes and mixed at least 5 minutes taking my time and getting it thoroughly mixed it worked fine. Shoot now I mix decoupage(i get the one at home depot or lowes by the gallon) all by weight 1:1 and in large batches sometimes up to 10 oz and never have an issue as long as i mix it good. I do not really use it for lures anymore I use it for making micarta knife handles
  6. How do you paint this pattern

    Do you think its crackle Mark? It very well could be since I have been out of the game for a bit, but all the ways i have tried crackle you get raised edges where it splits but its been awhile since i have tried so maybe there are better ways now. To me it looks like a tan/white base with a messy netting or a multi layer net job like a large hole net with a smaller hole net over the top and your choice green...the blue is probably a simple stencil since it has such sharp edge lines like an exacto cut into plastic. the rest is a basic craw.
  7. Crankbaits

    Archives are a beautiful thing! ;-p Like Ang said getting down n dirty with the bait is just about the only way to do it right. Generally I just scuff and paint too unless the bait needs TLC. Then you can go the whole nine yards Fill, sand fix as needed. If its a plastic bait and has significant hook rash or if its beat up and you wand a clean surface after sanding you can QUICKLY dip plastics in a strong thinner to "Melt" the top layer and make smooth after sanding but you will deform and melt the lure if you let them sit to try and let the thinner take off the paint for you. How do you know this you ask? There are a few "DERP" baits that I tried it on! LOL
  8. How to airbrush a sheen of color over a bait

    Mix a little into createx topcoat then finish the bait as you would. This method doesnt look as good but still works well. I never tried the transparent base but it should also work. Like others have mentioned lite multiple coats work better than heavy coats especially for this effect.
  9. How to airbrush a sheen of color over a bait

    Ya pearl ex works good or you can order from paint with pearl if you want more options and an automotive grade pearl powder. Now one thing to remember the pearl ex and others like it are made from Mica generally. I haven't ever had an issue with Mica based powders since mica is actually a mineral but some flakes and powders that are plastic based and such will not stand up to harsher chemicals in clear coats. I found this out the hard way so test a little before you go all out. Also little known fact but you can buy Mica pearl powder for makeup and its the same thing but cost less. they have soo many colors it will make your head spin too.
  10. Composite swimbait ballast positioning

    I weight some of my jointed swimbaits this way with a horizontal weight system. Not because its better or anything only because the bottoms has a slim convex taper to the bottom because I was keeping this particular style very streamline and as light as possible. This weighting works fine its just a little harder to get perfect. My process is simply have the segments and make a very simple jig to hold vertical 90* with V facing up towards bit. Drill and take your time to go in straight and if needed angle to follow contours. I always keep my weight as close to the hinge as possible so add weight there and work away from hinge until desired buoyancy is achieved. I also do similar to Chuck but I just drill 4 or 5 holes in sequence and then connect them so I have a slot on the bottom. add a stick of lead test and fill. Good method if you need a lot in one spot but depending on the bait you may need it spread out. I prefer now to just drill a bunch of shallow holes along the bottom weight and play with the bait until its how I like then fill and sand. Its quicker and you can fine tune better I feel but both ways work fine.
  11. How to airbrush a sheen of color over a bait

    Its done with pearl pigments or flakes. I bet the paint he used was auto air gem color shift sapphire....
  12. Best wood for neutral buoyancy

    Great info here and like everyone has said everything we have done makes us who we are. So we all have a slightly different outlook on things. I think we are all saying the same basic concept but different ways. Like I said weight and weight placement is key for ME. With a lighter lure you have more options to control variables than you do with a heavy lure. Also, You can always add ballast in strategic areas to control action but with a denser/heavier wood you do not have this option except to drill and plug with air pockets or buoyant material which brings in new issues. So back to the key concept I think...Action! What do we mean by action? A desired reaction to the inputs we place in a bait? A denser wood cannot have as much action as a lighter wood. Place 2 cranks exactly the same dimensions and the lighter one will have more movement because the forces exerted on it effect it more. Now is it the movement or action we want? Probably not! A denser wood will have a different action than a lighter wood with ballast added to be the exact same weight because we can manipulate those variables. So same cranks but we add ballast and I guarantee the lighter one with ballast added to control the action will be more favorable. Can we add too much ballast of course! But to have that option IMHO is better than not. I have never run out of room for ballast but i have made baits out of oak, black cherry, almond blah blah blah that just did not perform as well as woods like bass wood, yellow cedar or even poplar. Again these are my views and opinions only copyright infringement does apply!
  13. Best wood for neutral buoyancy

    I would suggest researching this and digging through the archives. Simple answer is Oak, Hickory, eucalyptus and such but you will not be happy with those and that is the wrong direction for you to head. You have a good wood you are using add more ballast! There are wood density charts out there that tell you what the more popular wood choices are. But IMHO basswood is one of the best choices out there for crankbaits and jerkbaits. It is easy to carve, has tight grains and holds screws very well. Others like balsa may outperform it but they have weaknesses like screw holding retention. You should really try and do some research on here about design, theories and what not. Essentially you want a very buoyant wood for many reasons. A few examples are with weighting and weight placement. You have more control over how the lure falls and where the weight is placed which effect action in the simplest terms. Also less buoyant woods like balsa have more action thats why they are soo popular given the inherent weakness of balsa. Again you should read up on this as you would have reading material for weeks if not longer.
  14. Jointed swimbait question

    Good points my friend. I am no expert like I said just tested a lot of failures! LOL So for some good banter lets explore this more and I think this is still on topic(If not lets make a dedicated topic)...From my testing I think we are on the same page. I like a 60/40 ratio front/rear, note this is without a tail on it. With a tail I want the bait to be close to 50/50. In the picture above it looks to me like the bait is more of 40/60 ratio and with a tail on it the rear section is going to me considerably longer. If you measure an S-waver profile it is exactly 50/50 with the tail on it. And while they are the OG and work like crazy I do not feel they can match some of the custom guys out there that have figured it out. I do agree that the tail seems to "Follow" the front around but I think it does much more than that in reality. Think about it, what initially makes the head section turn? Why do some baits just go straight unless the action is forced? The tail is what initially kicks out and creates the "Wave". Once in motion it "Follows" the head around but still is the driving factor to get the bait to kickout or wave and the more it moves the easier it can do this. I just feel with a 60/40 its a more natural movement and with less mass it can kick the bait out easier and sharper. As for the "Gap" I go back and forth on this. I tend to think keep it as tight as possible but like you said I have baits that work where it is clunky and wide. Look at a deps 250 its considerably wider than most others yet is a staple for glide baits. We really need a dedicated topic on this and hydrodynamics! Where is Vodkaman Dave we need you!!!
  15. Jointed swimbait question

    First off I am not an engineer or expert by any means. I have played with glide baits and while yet to master will give u my humble opinions... I agree with everything above but want to add that the least amount of weight you can get by with in the tail section the better. Slight nose down fall is good for +5 ft... if u fish shallow and slow u can get by with dead even. Also weight in tail should always be as close to the hinge as possible while keeping it as low on bait as possible. Like stated above the easier or less restriction on the hinge you Have the slower u can fish the bait. A lot of variable go into that simple little statement though as u can see. Another idea that may help along these same principles is if you happen to make another I would Lengthen the front section and shorten the rear a little. That will take more mass out of the tail and allow it to swing easier.