Matt Moreau

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Matt Moreau last won the day on January 13

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About Matt Moreau

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  1. good way to fill up truewire slit ?

    Bondo with CA and fast activator.....Cant go wrong!
  2. low price hvlp gun ?

    I have been using the small 1.0 tip HVLP from harbor Freight (on sale $10) for maybe 10 years to spray my clear. I stopped making baits for a few years but when i was able to smuggle in some decent clear I fired it back up and still purrrrs like a kitten! I have a smaller compressor 30 gallon tank probably 3hp motor and it does ok, but I think you are too small. check out the old style guns they do not require near as much volume they use pressure to atomize paint. thus if you can get enough pressure you can atomize the paint. ....HVLP = High Volume Low Pressure benefits in much better spray pattern and control basically but that doesnt matter for priming baits
  3. Need advice on top coating a jointed bait...

    I use rubber bands with no problems at all. I buy the mixed bags at wallyworld and the small size in the bags worked well in the past. I alos bought the really small rubber bands for kids hair but those were too small!!!
  4. Wooden Square Bills Blowing out at high speeds

    As you can see or know a lot of variables go into making a crank. Pictures would help! What is the size and weight of the bait? Find a similar size and shape production lure and yours should be close to that weight. Are you testing with hooks? If not put hooks on! You can try try upsizing the front hook and/or both and see what happens to action. You can also put splitshots on the front hook to add ballast for testing purposes. If I had to guess with the limited information we have here I would say that you do not have enough ballast and its too high in the bait. You say "if i go too heavy it sits lower than i want it to in the water. " I do not really understand how or why that applies here...is it a wakebait? Also where is the ballast located? You can easily ruin a bait by trying stuff I know I have ruined far more than i will ever admit to. Try stuff that is easily changed before plastic surgery errr...I mean alterations are done.
  5. Which urethane

    I have tried a bunch of poly's and I used to think like you "just for sealing" but when we started testing them on here probably 5 years ago+ none of them held up to a dunk test for extended periods. So it left me thinking if you wear through your TC with like hook rash and have just your sealer left I want something that is waterproof. I have put all this time into a bait I just do not want to take chances or be cheap on something that I can control. Thats why I use the ac1315 now! I have a bunch and its downfalls dont matter as a sealer. I have also used superglue but its just too hard to get a smooth final product. When I am testing or prototyping I use it exclusively. shoot I still have a few baits I fish unpainted just sealed with superglue. I fished a pro am awhile back and and I was on a good topwater swimbait bite. I had this half ac plug/slammer/rat concoction I made that looked terrible like a turd with a joint. it was unpainted just had numerous coats of superglue. It just looked so bad I never painted it but it flat out stuck em! anyway I pull my rod out with this bait on it and my am who was a young kid just turned 16 said you arent going to really throw that are you? I just chuckled and said well I want to just try it out for a bit i have a hunch. well that bait went to work and stuck an 8, 5 and two 4's. the kid threw everything he had I even let him trow a wake jr of mine but he couldnt get em to go. we ended up with 24 lbs and 5th or something. I gave him that bait at the end of the day and he was JACKED. he still hits me up on FB now and then and as far as I know that bait is still not painted with more coats of superglue on it. lol
  6. Which urethane

    I have tried most if not all back in the day, just found time again a few months ago to start building and posted a similar question you can look that up if you wanted more in-depth. you probably already know KBS is the best thing going right now but you cannot get it at local big box store. Of what I have tried at local big box the best is a Lacquer concrete sealer Green and Black metal container. it has a few down sides like the finish is rock hard but can be brittle if you hit some rip rap. Also if left in a tackle box it seems to react to plastic. If you are going local and big box look in the concrete sealer section or pool sealing sections thats where I found the most success with those products. I still use AC1315 for sealing all my baits it lasted in a mason jar for years so it doesn't flash easy and seals good and hard pretty fast. I think gemseal is the same as AC1315. Dont waste your time on anything waterbourne or water based IMHO.
  7. Resin microsphere ratio

    There are ways to get around not adding ballast. None of which are easy or work as good or better than ballast though IMHO. the best way I found is to cast the bait belly/bottom down so pour hole is on top. then add some non MB resign......this is where you have to experiment a lot with how much to add of each so start with 1/3 then next 1/3 do half MB in resign then last 1/3 do full MB to resign ratio. When complete you will have a layered bait of heaviest material on the bottom. I have never had the layers delaminate but I have never found a recipe that works better than ballast. with ballast you can fine tune the bait and change how it swims by moving ballast around. I use dascar plastics for my resign and MB from tap plastics. If its a topwater bait I do 50/50 mix and these products are still pourable. with glide baits I would say somewhere around 40%. I am no engineer like some of these very talented builders so I revert to hill billy methods and trial and error lol. With Dascar and the tap MB I do feel the more you add the less resilient the bait is and will break if you chuck it on a dock or rip rap bank(dont ask why or how I came to these conclusions though)! Its usually the thin spot where I have the tail slot that breaks. GL and have fun with it. Trial and error is not a bad thing!
  8. What Is This Color

    base aside....top looks like normal olive on top followed by a lime high lite/fade and a lite gold pearl dusting
  9. Clear Coating Jointed Baits

    Sup Mike, Like Bob mentioned epoxy, sharp edges, thickens.....all dont go well together ona bait you cannot modify or adjust. Thus I cannot be much help with expoxy as I do not use it for that application. If you can disassemble that would help and that is how I prefer to TC my baits is by sections. If it helps here is my method using a dipping or spraying medium as a TC. When I cannot disassemble or its a friends bait I am doing and dont want to take it apart because it usually involves another small hole I use rubber bands. just wrap the rubber bands around the joint using a half hitch to make it nice and tight. It will lock up the joint so it stays straight and protect it from any TC, then I just use an exacto once died and cut them out. works like a charm and pretty easy. I got that tip here probably 10 years ago. Dont go crazy and wrap a ton around.....wrap just enough less is more.
  10. something brighter than alu tape?

    heat transfer foil! Its used on Tshirts and such. Harder to use than alum tape but when done right end product is much better and tons of color options. I havce tried with just warming the lure but results were not good. now just spray some adhesive on the bait let tack apply the foil and use like an eraser or something to rub it down REALLY REALLY well.
  11. How to get speckles on crank baits

    I struggle with this technique! I have tried like Benton suggested with a straw and just made a mess LOL. Sea sponge, ripped sponge, stencil dottied with wood burner, tape, geez I have tried them all. I have tried loading like Benzin but never took the front two shrouds off the brush I will have to try that. When I was experimenting with this technique I had to reduce the more than normal like 2:1 to get the best results. Do you guys do this with the shrouds off? What paints are you using? I mainly use createx when I care about the paintjob otherwise walmart 50 cent apple barrel and thinner baby! HEHE
  12. What Is It

    I have no clue what it is but I love it!!!!
  13. Airbrushing DIY Candy Acrylics

    Interesting I will follow this thread. I have tried "over reducing" methods but nothing ever worked all that good. I just finally broke down and bought candy colors. lol Candy red craw....delta....right now.....BOOM! ;-p
  14. Tacky Etex

    I agree with above too but even when i used syringes I had problems until I actually timed how long I mixed. I found If I use syringes and mixed at least 5 minutes taking my time and getting it thoroughly mixed it worked fine. Shoot now I mix decoupage(i get the one at home depot or lowes by the gallon) all by weight 1:1 and in large batches sometimes up to 10 oz and never have an issue as long as i mix it good. I do not really use it for lures anymore I use it for making micarta knife handles
  15. How do you paint this pattern

    Do you think its crackle Mark? It very well could be since I have been out of the game for a bit, but all the ways i have tried crackle you get raised edges where it splits but its been awhile since i have tried so maybe there are better ways now. To me it looks like a tan/white base with a messy netting or a multi layer net job like a large hole net with a smaller hole net over the top and your choice green...the blue is probably a simple stencil since it has such sharp edge lines like an exacto cut into plastic. the rest is a basic craw.