miragestalker

I make all my structural cuts with a table saw. Pretty easy with a good fence and fence clamp. Then I drill out the hinge post holes and test fit the hinges. When all that is done, I will cut out the shape with a scroll/band/coping saw (whichever is available to you) and carve/sand down to the final. Here is my latest project.

I just bartered an old tv stand and got a RIGID twin stack compressor. I want to use it for my air brush besides everything else. Do I need to put an air dryer? Any other advice would be appreciated. Thanks! /bing

Hmmmm. Fine detail. How fine do you want it? I can get my PS900 down to a point similar to a fine tip ball point pen. But then there will always be some overspray. For really fine detail, I resort to using stencils. My freestyle has not produced well when it comes to fine detail. /bing

Based on the Kastmaster, I carved a 4 oz (after ballasting) 7.5 inch wood plug. It sinks about 1.5 feet every 2 seconds. I also made a skirted tail hook for it. There will also be a belly hook as the ballast allows it to swim right side up. I am just waiting for my order of 2/0 Owner 2X stingers

I have mixed by weight using a small digital kitchen scale for epoxy for years, and now ETEX. I have successfully mixed a batch as small as 1 gram of resin and 1 gram of hardener. Mixing by weight is useful to me as I make small batches for small lures. Mixing by volume is good too, but using is scale is easier for me. /bing

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Good question. I didnt bother to check as I have never seen a polyurethane clear coat that wasnt. The usual literature on water based polyurethane floors coatings Ive read recommend soap and water for cleaning. But I will before I make a purchase. Another interesting note, this stuff is not billed as "water based" but "water borne" I also found some pro grade polyU for bowling alleys I didn't to mess with it as it has a higher level of cautionary literature Thanks!

Found this at my local B&B Hardware. I will be buying some soon as they get gloss in. Looks promising. Maybe some of you experts can check out the MSDS and brochure to see if its up to snuff. ZAR Ultra Max "ULTRA Max is an environmentally safe, revolutionary dual drying polyurethane. It dries by coalescing & oxygen cross-linking for a harder “through cure.”" Right now, Ive been working with a lesser ZAR polyurethane that I already had as a sealer and ETEX for the final clear coat. I might try this stuff a the sealer and final clear coat. I used a nail to scratch the coated sample they had on the hardware shelf and I had a hard time scratching it. /bing

If you are a newb like me......wax paper I thought, since the wood is already sealed with ZAR Ultra Max, I didnt have to get the Etex deep inside the joints. Ive yet to see how that works out. But if you are an experienced builder, I do what the others guys on here said.

I got the G43 0.3mm needle/nozzle set from TCP. It fits and works! The packages contained a nozzle cap that does not fit the PS900. I am not too concerned. I used the original on my airbrush. Observation, the needle comes out of the nozzle about 2-3mm. Its pretty long. It does make a good seal. The nozzle needs cleaning just like the PS900. There is some gum in there out of the box. I don't see a big diff between .2 and .3 except that the .3 needle allows for easier tuning / adjustment of the brush. I can still draw very fine lines. /bing

What kind of bill do you want? If a little money is not a problem, any decent SIGN shop will laser cut flat sheet lexan or any other flat plastic for you. There is one that is close to me that will even form curves. Etched? No problemo. "Trotec lasers are widely used for cutting acrylic material, but can also process other plastics such as polycarbonate, polypropylene and polyethylene" /bing

Well, the next morning, I put the compressor down on the floor and started painting. Initially, I had water. But it went away and I sprayed fine. Its one of three things. Either having the compressor on the table allows water to flow to the AB instead of the moisture trap OR practicing overheated the compressor OR my garage is too cold at night for ABing. Problem solved, for now /bing

My local dealer has a great selection of stuff. I don't know what you need but here is his hose and fittings page. Scroll completely as the fitting are all over the page. I see a few stuff labeled NPT to NOS to Quick Male to Quick Female etc etc. They are under the title AMFLO. I am in Los Angeles, he is in San Diego, but I get my stuff next day Good luck! Hose and Fittings

I don't know any better, is lacquer thinner or acetone safe for silicone o-rings? Ive got a gallon of both in my chem drawer /bing

I am new to airbrushing. I spent a good deal of last night learning and practicing with a new PS900. I have to say, initially, it wouldnt spray Createx with the 0.2 mm tip. INITIALLY. After mesing with it, and getting it blocked up pretty fast, I dismantled the nozzle/needle assembly and found it to have gum residue. I cleaned the needle with an EXACTO knife (not advisable) and some AB cleaner, reassembled and VOILA! I am now spraying Createx straight from the bottle. It doesnt help that the PS900 does not have a useful manual. This site helped a lot.... HOW TO AIRBRUSH..... /bing

Used an old lure as a test subject for my new found airbrush skilz. Shiny, no? I call the scheme.... Not too realistic, but its a start. The lure is already covered with Etex. Experimenting with that too. /bing

I am using Createx and water as thinner. I bought some Illustration Base to see if it helps. My water seperator is at compressor with the regulator. I just realized that I moved my compressor on my table and the seperator is above my airbrush while at work. I am going to place it back on the floor to see if it helps. After some research, it seems some guys experience this phenomenon too. They say an overheating compressor head will cause water to form in the hose. I am going to check on the head temps tomorrow. I also bought a recoil hose off the net that people say helps with the water issue, and the pulsating air as I don't have an air tank. Thanks guys!

I ordered just now. I will let you know. As an aside, I can't believe I just spent another 70 bucks on a needle, a respirator, a cleaning pot and a bunch of other stuff. and 50 bucks on paint last week. Winning the PS900 and compressor off eBay for a 100 bucks a few weeks ago, isn't such a deal as I thought it was But it sure is fun making stuff that looks good to other people too! /bing

There is some condensation in there, but its almost completely empty.

Why is water coming out of my airbrush despite my compressor having a moisture trap? Ive tried a little research online but I can't figure it out. I am new to airbrushing and was just practicing. I'm getting the occasional water splatter. I can work around it by running the air ever so often, without paint, to clear the airbrush. But I don't think it should be like this. Is there something I should do to the moisture trap? Thanks in advance for your advice. /bing

Thats why I've been looking to buy Master Air Brush parts from TCP for my PS900. I ordered paint from TCP Global and called their office, they actually have a Customer Service Department with a full time guy. Quite helpful too. They ship fast, with tracking. Their Master airbrushes are dead look alikes for Air Pro Tools, including the various models. I may risk an needle order soon, just to get the better service.

My Air Pro Tools dealer is missing in action. I noticed that Master Air Brushes from a local dealer looks strikingly the same. Any chance this is the same air brush in a different brand? The reason I ask is that I need a .3mm needle/nozzle and my local dealer is so much easier to deal with. Thanks for your advice! /bing

Just messin around in the garage and figured to go ahead and advance development of my jointed lures. This is primarily a test of the joint system I will be using when I get my skills down. Its a two joint shad lure with 2 hooks, a pyramid tail just like similar to Big Hammer plastic swimbaits, about 1-2 oz and 4 inches long. I am thinking that the wood around the pin will be reinforced with fiberglass just for good measure.

They a beautiful and the action is fantastic. These are what I aspire to. /bing

Have you seen these on the market? Quite eeeenteresting. A few early testers had the lures break on some bruiser yellow tails, and the manufacturer came back with guarantee and interesting bit of info. "Bob, Thanks for the heads up on the message board. We have changed material from the first Candy Macks we sold at the Fred Hall shows and Day at the Docks. We found an A & B part polyurethane that is super tough with just enough flexibility. Skate board wheels are made of polyurethane. I have tried to get the word out through our retailers that we will gladly replace all of the lures made from the old material. Please pass that info to the guys on the message board. The new lures have caught 70lb yellow fin and 45lb Yellowtail on the long range boats this summer with no problems. The retail price is 29.99. The 39.99 came from an interview with ESPN sports when we first showed prototypes at ICAST 2008 and were still shopping for parts vendors. I'm the manufacturer so don't take my word on the Candy Mack's performance vs. the iron. Check other message boards if you want to know how the Candy Mack performed this summer and fall on the long range boats. I also encourage guys to talk to the boat captains and crew. Or they can contact Jack and Fisherman's Access or Luc and Anglers Choice and get the feedback their customers have been giving them. Thanks for your interest Bob. Jeff Law Aqueous Outdoors" Video available here. It is hosted in the company website, so don't click if you don't want to see their home page. (URL Removed) I am not connected to these people in anyway. I just thought you guys might like to see this aqua tunnel thingy and the fact that they are casting these lures from skateboard wheel composite. /bing