Jump to content

Charles

TU Member
  • Content Count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About Charles

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 07/18/1972
  1. Environmental Technology Inc. I found 2 old posts where it was being recommended. The tensil strength I beleive is harder than D2T. Plenty of working time but I couldnt find a cure time. Would like to know if anyone has any experience with this before I ordered some to try. Thanks.........Charles
  2. Check out www.caribelures.com
  3. Hello Mark, I used solvent based paints from Sherman Williams and the reccomended Laquer thinner to thin........
  4. Thanks for all the advice. I am inthe process of changing sealers and I plan on heating the blanks before I seal. I just tried fiberglass resin (just to try) to seal the wood and I let it set then sanded and painted plain base coat and applied Etex and let it set for 1 day and a half. I put the blow dryer to it and it blistered but I think more a problem with etex than from the lure gassing out. But I wasnt sure how hot I got it either. This next round I am going to use a insulated box and a thermometer to try. Thanks for the input..........
  5. Thanks for all the advice. I am inthe process of changing sealers and I plan on heating the blanks before I seal. I just tried fiberglass resin (just to try) to seal the wood and I let it set then sanded and painted plain base coat and applied Etex and let it set for 1 day and a half. I put the blow dryer to it and it blistered but I think more a problem with etex than from the lure gassing out. But I wasnt sure how hot I got it either. This next round I am going to use a insulated box and a thermometer to try. Thanks for the input..........
  6. On my last fishing trip (in tropical heat) I had several of my Top water baits blister and fail. I use Paulownia and its very grainy and so the process is as follows: Sanding sealer from zisner (sp?) from home depot 2 coats sanding in between and let dry over night. Dipped Then I use Sherman Williams (automotive) sanding primer dipped in can, let dry sand and coat with a white SW sprayed for base coat. Then follow with sw paints. All paints are SW automotive paints.Their replacment to acylic laquer. I then top coat with Etex light. Some lures failed all the way to the bare wood others to the sanding primer. The Etex peels right off. There was more than 2 weeks from the time the Etex was applied untill they were used. All failed before they touched the water but where stored in tackle box in direct sunlight. I have never had this problem before.Wood was dry. Iam suspecting the sanding sealer as not being able to handle the heat. 90deg F, maybe more in a tackle box on the floor of an aluminum boat. I am back to the drawing board and am researching a better process and would very much appreciate any advice, constructive/destructive critizism ect:teef: Spent the last 2 days researching the Forum and only caught a couple of threads that touched on the subject (blistering). 1 thread stated sealing the wood to prevent blistering and 1 that suggested etex might not hold well in the heat. I am ordering some DN lure coat to try and maybe some of the paints. But what I need is a good sealer to level the grain and I am researching the epoxy sealers. Thanks, Charles
  7. Charles

    foam question

    Hello HAWGHUNNA, I spent a lot of time, money, effort ect. trying to make Polywood work. I was convinced that it would replace my wood lures. I made lots of molds out of bondo and invested in a static mixer. I was able to make some lures but found that every time I ordered new Polywood it was different. Weighed different and mixed different leaving the lure weight different. Then came trying to paint without the lure looking like the surface of the moon with craters and pinholes. Yes I washed the lures in everything from caustic soda to MEK and I let them cure for weeks at a time. I used several types of release agents and even shoe polish. The tech told me it was some sort of phenomenon that was occuring. His way of saying give up and dont bother me anymore. Then when I did finaly get some lures to come out ok, I exitedly handed them out to my best customers for their aproval only to hear. Nope, dont sound right and dont run right, I like the old ones better. So I cut my losses and went back to good ole WOOD. I havnt tried the other types of foam mentioned but plan to in the future. Good luck...............
  8. Gentlmen Thank you for your suggestions, I have ordered some Basswood to try, but I am a little worried about its screw holding ability. I use SS .092 screw eyes pretty long, and 2 coats of 2 part epoxy for a protective coating. I have been advised to try white cedar aswell but have yet to find a supplier. My quantities are over a thousand per month, so I have to use something afforable and readily available. I will look for some poplar to try aswell. Again thanks for the advise,
  9. Good afternoon, I manufacture Prop Baits for Pea#### Bass fishing. I currently use a wood native to South America called Alpamate and sometimes a South American Ceder. The wood is light weight yet holds a screw well. I am starting a division in the US and I am looking for equivalent caractaristics in wood. Any advice would certainly be apreciated. Thanks, Charles
×
×
  • Create New...
Top