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Posts posted by A-Mac

  1. I'm a big fan of gorilla glue! You get a good amount for the cost and the bottle punctures the bottle. I normally put some in a small syringe and inject it into my pilot hole with a needle. 

    Normally, the needle and syringe will be shot after a few uses, but for what I use it for, it works well.

    As far as durability, I haven't had any issues. If you are gluing in wood, it will work very well. With resin, it's ok, but not any worse than other glues. A slightly larger pilot hole in resin (in comparison to the eye screw) tends to hold better.


    Hope this helps!

  2. On 2/12/2017 at 2:33 PM, DaleSW said:

    When you are just getting into this, you can't expect certain things to be at a level like one who has done it for 10-20 years or more. One of these are speed, when I'm teaching someone new to anything I'll tell them, "speed comes in time, learn to do it right first".

    It should not take you no more than 15-30 seconds to clean a brush between colors. As Bob L stated learn be organize first, then work on that cleaning. After painting out a color (water base) dip pour out, dip again and back flush, do that cycle again. Spray out the water and get at it again. If you do this right at the end of a paint session you don't have to do a total very often. I'll let someone take it from here.

    As Bob stated too, it takes time to build a reputation. Good luck,



    15-30 seconds?  Even to go from shooting black or a dark color back to white? I feel like I need nearly dissemble a brush to do go from dark back to light colors. If you can do this in 15-30 seconds, then I've spent several years doing it all wrong.

    What are you dipping your brush in? Is this still effective with pearls (Createx pearl blue is always a bear to clean from a brush)?

  3. That is a really nice bait!!!!

    Maybe the dorsal fin has something to do with the wobble.  I've never built a bait with one, so I'm just guessing.

    I agree entirely.

    Beautiful bait. I've made gills before with the large dorsal fin protruding above the caudal area and the swim action was certainly hindered. I removed the fin from that section and it began to swim beautifully. You can get by with a very low profile fin, but it doesn't take much to impact the action. 


    That would be my first crack at trying to fix your problem anyway. Good luck!

  4. Thanks guys.


    Yeah, I was interested in trying out there 60D hardness resin on a couple tool pieces. However, I was interested in trying it out on perhaps trying to make a 2-part crankbait (similar to an injection molded crankbait), only using resin instead.


    It was recommended, but not a necessity with the alumilite 60D resin

  5. Would you mind posting a picture or a video of it swimming? This may help us figure out what is causing this.


    I've made a few gill designs myself, but don't recall the top portion wobbling.  Lol, it actually sounds like a cool action if the rest of the lure is still swimming.

  6. I use the Elmers spray adhesive. It's less tacky than 3m, and much cheaper too.


    I tend to spray a light mist on, then can use the mesh about a minute later (allow it to no longer be wet, but tacky still). 


    I tend to get about 2 applications before needing to start the respray process over. After a certain amount of use, I pitch the mesh material and start with a new piece.

  7. I like using the Gorilla super glue. I haven't had any issues. I dab a little on the threads and also use a syring to inject some in the cavity. I do similar to what Dave suggests. I drill a pilot hole first, just smaller than the threads. I then drill a hole slightly larger than the threads of the eyescrew approximately half the distance of the first hole.

  8. I do pour in lips too. I drill 2 small holes at the base of the lip to allow the resin to flow through. That sucker isn't coming out. Square bill (and coffin) style lips are a little tougher to remove from the mold. I recently completed one. The lure comes out nicely, but I'm afraid that the edges of the lip may reduce the life of the mold. It's much more difficult to remove than a round lip.


    Bass100 is right, you need to make sure your lips are all cut identical for it to work in the mold. I keep my "master" lip that I used to make the mold with as my stencil for sketching new ones. Even better, if you can punch the design in on a computer (even standard Paint can work well), you can print these out on either label sheet or on standard paper (use a light coat of spray adhesive) and adhere to the lip material (circuit board in my case). This drastically helps with consistency.

  9. I used to use a sharpie fine point, but be sure to shoot createx clear over it. Some clear coats will make these run.


    My favorite method is creating a decal of my signature. I snap a picture of my signature, upload it into microsoft word, crop the image some, and shrink it down to the size I need.  After I make the size I need, copy and paste it about 400 times to fill up a sheet, then print it out on clear label paper.


    Note, I still shoot clear over the label, but it's tough to fit McAlexander on a 1.5" lure with a sharpie :-)

  10. You could try dipping the lure in concrete sealer or solarez too. Both of these methods would be easy. I don't believe the sealer would eat the PVC, thoughts anyone?


    Also, when I'm making a lure with small detail cut in, I'll shoot createx gloss clear over it several times. This will definitely smooth it out for a nice lure to make a mold out of, but I normally will recut the details in the lure produced from the mold. I then take that lure, make another mold and I'm good to go.


    So if doing this for a mold, it's really a 2 mold process.

    The first mold is to produce a smooth blank.

    The second mold takes the smooth blank and applies the sharpened details.

    • Like 1

  11. The hot knife (exacto blade style) soldering iron bit works great!  


    Sometimes I think it's a little too hot (melts too fast) though, so I actually prefer using the exacto knife and just heat it up with a torch ever so often. I prefer to have a little resistance when I cut for more control, but not melt away all the material (which leaves additional mess to trim up).

    • Like 2

  12. I normally allow a couple hours dry time from base coat to the rest of the paint. I've been using a kerosene heater recently, and it has been excellent for heat setting. I still allow for at least a few hours of dry time away from heat before clearing. You do not want to clear a hot lure either! Patience is key in the final stages of a lure!

    Be sure you put 2 coats of createx clear gloss on too!

  13. Sieglefish, I'm currently using an organic cartridge mask like what you can get from home depot for 30 bucks. I can't smell anything when using it, and replace the cartridges as soon as I start to smell anything. Im battling the temp issue by heating the garage with a forced air heater, then dipping with the door cracked a few inches and the fan blowing. Do you have better recommendations on PPE gear? Should I avoid doing as many lures? I would leave the door half open, but I'm afraid the lures would cure too slow and maybe wrinkle the paint. Humidity isnt an issue here. I normally clear coat 2-3 days every 2 weeks. It takes about 15 minutes to dip 20 lures and clean up.

  14. I don't know how strong GST is, but Eagle Supreme is pretty intense... at least if you are dipping 20+ lures.  The smell is strong enough that I get buzzed after I take my mask off, just from the fumes on my clothes.  Of course, I probably am not following the proper PPE for my skin and eyes exposure either.  I'm doing this with a box fan running and the garage door cracked.

    • Like 1

  15. The lead ballast will take care of the attitude. It is possible to fix the lead in the mold before pouring, but I have never tried. I have always drilled holes for the lead.



    x2.  Your hooks will have a surprising impact on the balance too.  I've tried pouring with lead in place, it is a major PITA.  It's much easier to drill.  Plus, sometimes the lead shifts around before you get to pour and can throw the bait out of wack.  A drill press is your friend!  if you plan to do several, get some modeling clay and position the bait's tail into a cast.  I did this to help consistently drill at the same angle into the lure each time.

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