A-Mac
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Posts posted by A-Mac
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ok, scratch the tape idea. Even with the topcoats, the Eagle Supreme put a couple waves in the lure. So I don't recommend that method. Eh well, good thing these were just for me! Next time, I may just dip the foiled lure in the E supreme before painting and use it as a way to smooth out some of the wrinkles. I figure at least this way I should have to worry about my clear reacting.
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I decided on two different options to try out (that I could do without buying anything special).
A) Elmers glue or the gorilla glue that dries clear and just put it on the dorsal areas where the foil is wrinkled
B ) Clear Shipping tape
I didn't have any of option A), so I tried option B ). I cut out strips to cover only the top. I then sprayed a couple coats of clear gloss (so I could paint over the foil). So far, it looks much better than having done nothing. I will be clearing with Eagle Supreme tomorrow after the lures dry out. I do still want to try the gorilla glue.
Before:
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/20140216_204749_zpsbf48174a.jpg
After:
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/20140216_223904_zps3652e394.jpghttp://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/20140216_223913_zps1fc14f33.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/20140216_224033_zpsa22ca1e3.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/20140216_224020_zpsbb3b3079.jpg
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Give it a fancy name and then no one will notice. I think as long as you don't say the exact title Rapala uses then it wouldn't be an issue. As mentioned previously, many lures companies are using weight transfer systems. How about Mass Boomerang System.... I'll be expecting my quarterly royalties
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I just hate epoxies. A bug or something stupid always finds its way into the finish while its turning.... or a clip slips.
This lure weighs 3oz, so im more worried about the clip slipping part and coming back to find it permanently glue to my desk.
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Ok, I did a test with the propionate on a separate lure. It fogged up, I dipped it in pure acetone until it went clear. From then on, it stayed clear. I went to do the same on the lure I'm working on, only I had holographic tape over a portion of the foil. Well, it ate it. The bad thing is, i did a propionate dip on a strip of the tape first with no issues!
Eh well. After stripping the foil and starting over (yuck), I did a few createx clear sprays on the lure and did a few heavy coats brushed on the top and bottom. It didn't take much effort with a kerosene heater drying it in between coats. It's pretty smooth. I think by the time I get done painting the top and bottom and doing 4 coats of E-supreme it will look fine. I'm thinking the Seal-Coat may be worth trying for future use.
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I think epoxy still has the hands down best finish, but Eagle Supreme (concrete sealers) do put a nice shine on the lure and a simple, easy, and fast. I can dip 15 lures in a matter of minutes.
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The slower drying thinner/reducer will slow the evaporation of the solvent, rapid evaporation is what cause condensation to form on the surface or trapped in the finish. Retarder or a high temperature thinner/reducer or solvent will stop the problem.
Thanks! I'll have to pic some up next time I'm at the paint shop.
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Does mixing propionate with acetone instead of lacquer thinner help with the chalky problem?
I get a slightly less cloudy finish with the thinner.
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Thanks guys. Yeah, I've heard humidity is the root of the problem, but I've had the same responses even when humidity was 15%. Heck, I figured this stuff should be a piece-o-cake to use in drought stricken Texas.
@ Cougarftd, Thanks for the tip. have you dipped GST over propionate yet? Any adverse reactions?
@Hawgfan, this seal-coat stuff sounds like something I should have in the arsenal of airbrush stuff anyway. Since I recently found out Barlows is only an hour away, I may have to make another trip! Same question goes for this stuff though, have you noticed any adverse reactions to GST or other concrete sealers?
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Oh yeah, I remember why I don't use propionate! I've never been able to get the solution to cure clear, which sucks for foil coating, though it's perfect for sealing a balsa lure. Even using lacquer thinner it would still come out cloudy and dull. However, I've never been able to find the "virgin" lacquer thinner that I'm supposed to use.
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Yeah. I forgot about that stuff. I still have a bag from my when I made balsa lures.
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Try running some acetone through your airbrush as a final step. You'll be amazed at what it will knock loose even after you think your brush is clean.
Ben
x2
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Thanks Ben. I'll have to keep that in mind too. I also would like the thick clear to shoot over foil before painting to help smooth out some of the foil seems and wrinkles.
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I sometimes do. Either with a dremel, sandpaper, or a bandsaw. It just depends on how close you want your fingers to danger! Pretty much anything that will scar the surface will work. D2T will work too. There are threads on here that explain ways to thin it a little too. I have switched to concrete sealers due to the ease of use.
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I'm not sure if this exists, but I'm trying to find a product similar to createx gloss top coat only thicker. I really like using it as a sealer over pvc and resin lures to smooth the surface before painting as well as a topcoat before dipping in concrete sealer. I was just wondering if there was one out there that has an even heavier topcoat, preferably a water base.
Thanks!
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The last thing I do is pin. You can paint the tail, but paint and clear coat separately from the rest of the lure. I drill my pin hole at the end and put a drop of epoxy over the top. Trust me, nobody notices the pin. The drop of epoxy over top just keeps it from backing out.
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Scrub:
I also make some small lures and I have found these small radius contour sanders from Woodcraft handy.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005237/10567/complete-sanding-pad-set-4-piece.aspx
I have no business connection with Woodcraft!
Jim P
Haha, I have a woodcraft about 5 miles away. They have a business connection with me for sure! It is a dangerous place to walk into, especially if it was payday.
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I buy the thin foam pads at hobby lobby. Spray some craft glue on it and stick a sheet of sand paper on. It makes sanding so much easier!
That's a great idea!
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I would suggest trying to replicate the process that has been tried and true for Eagle and GST. I use Eagle, I CAN dip every 12hrs no problem, but I normally like to wait 24hrs between coats. I dip 4 coats. It normally takes a solid week or two before the clear has set solid.
I've run into problems with the coat wrinkling if I tried to dip every few hours. I decided it was worth it to have a little patience in the end.
Good luck.
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I would not heat the lures. This is a little different order of operations, but I've had some where I dipped right after heat setting the paint (thinking a hot lure may help), the lure bubbled up from under the clear.
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Wood Putty, Solarez, or epoxy all work well.
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I agree entirely with rounding the corners. I think the width of this set up will be just as important too. Since water is "sticky", it will be attracted to all surfaces, including the sides. I think having some width to this system will help to reduce impact on the area the lure is to be tested.
Can we make this any more complicated???!!! Hell, I can barely get a crankbait lip straight, let alone predict invisible vortices.
...bar5150, your wife is going to wonder why you just didn't buy a pool... but on the plus side, you may be able to rear trout in this thing! Good luck!
OOooooo, once it is built it would be neat to see a dye test too!
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This one might work better.
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A Little Tip For Those Using The "tap The Can" Method With Dn
in Hard Baits
Posted
Brilliant idea! Thanks!