A-Mac
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Posts posted by A-Mac
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A-mac
I had some old cranks that had some ugly worn looking bills on them, so the other day I sanded them and tried epoxie, I didn't like the look of it so I sanded the epoxies off and brushed on some MCU pretty heavy, put it on the turner and it and it worked out pretty good. Don't know how it would do with GST but worth a try.
I know its not dipping, but worth a try I think. JMO
Royce
Thanks rhersh,
I'm thinking dip, let hang for a couple minutes to let most of the excess drip off, and then put them on the turner. I'm glad turning worked for you with the mcu. I love using 3d eyes, but they don't seem to get as much coverage on the edges as I would like. I'll try this out on 1 lure first. Thankfully, this stuff settles pretty fast so I should be able to acquire results quickly. I'm going to make sure that I wait the full 24hrs between coats though.
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Has anyone tried turning their lures after dipping in eagle supreme or gst with good success? I notice that regardless of the clear that I dip, the top of the lure (highest point) will have a thinner coat.
I've been trying to think of a way to hang the lure upside down on every other dip, but I can't think of a way to prevent the sealer from going down the lip.
It's not a big deal after applying 4 coats, but it's just something that irks me.
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Please post a video with your accomplishments! This is a neat concept.
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Let them sit exposed for about 2 weeks after you put them through the dishwasher.
If this still does this, I suspect that the resin may be contaminated with moisture. I had some resin go bad, and the lures would start to "sweat" anytime I tried to heat set the lures. Additionally, the paint didn't stick and the clearcoats failed too.
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I think it would be best to build the bait first and locate the pivot point in the lure's wobble. This is where I would first try putting blades like you mentioned and modify from there.
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I've had a 10" Rikon since January, replacing my 9" Performx (aka craftsman). I use a Saw Blade Stabilizer - Band Saw Stabilizer | Carter Products with a 1/16th blade and have been very happy with the performance.
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Ok Boys, I got some Eagle supreme for 19 dollars at home depot it came from another store as a return, So I am gonna give it a shot and see just how good it works.
So far so good with this stuff. BUT, I haven't been making very many lures the last few months either. This PITA called a thesis has infected all of my awaken hours. The lures I have used still look great w/ 4 coats. 2 coats still looks nice, but 4 is beautiful. Just don't be in a hurry. I suggest 1 coat per day. I had a lure that was sticky for about a month, but I presume this was because I didn't let the paint cure. Once the lure was no longer sticky, I applied 3 more coats and everything seems fine.
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Nice looking lures but I have to ask myself... if the exterior is a tough unbreakable polycarbonate shell, why the balsa? Why not something even lighter, like AIR?
It does look like it has a moderate amount of roll - which I like in a bait.
I agree. Why even use the balsa? Even more-so, why expose the balsa grain. I think this is more artistic than anything. I think the same thing with having the exposed metal rattle chamber. It kind of defeats the point of making a natural looking lure.
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Here ya go. Pretty nifty little idea, can't believe it hasn't been done before it's so simple really. It's centered on a pin horizontally through the bait.
The line tie still looks anchored by the lip. Does the lip move too?
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They are a must for epoxy finishes for sure. You can get quite a few going with some bike chain and sprockets too. I had over 20 going with one rotisserie.
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I suppose there may be a soft epoxy out there. Perhaps brush it on and turn the lure an you normally would. Maybe put a layer of Petroleum Jelly on the surface of the lure first so that it can be removed. Of course, maybe just some rtv, like you mentioned, or even brushing on clear bathroom caulk might do the trick too. I think without an injection molding method, we are restricted to brush on and turn epoxy methods.
However, I would love to be proven wrong with an easier method.
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It's a stumper for sure. I've been thinking about this one for awhile.
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I've tried a similar method to paustin1982 before. However, things don't always stay where you want them with a rtv mold. Sad to say, a ballast being a little off tends to lead to a useless bait. I normally have a mark or an "x" on the master to show where to drill for the ballast weight on the lure. With my crankbaits, I molded modeling clay around the tail of the lure and formed it into a block. This allows me to slip a crankbait into the clay formation and get a perfect drill hole angle every time into the lure. It works much better than eye-balling and is worth the time (to me) to produce.
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Hi All,
I posted the recipe in the hard bait cook book. A-mac, The first single jointed bait I made didn't even swim it stayed dead straight (very discouraging). For me I used the recipe posted and added more weight in the face of the lure like Mark does and this was a world of difference. Thanks agian for you help, i'm going to change out the short shank 1/0 hooks for some 2/0 standard length ones and see what happens.
No guarantees, but once in a blue moon an easy fix comes along! I've had a larger front hook help with minor rolling on some of my 2 and 3 jointed lures before. Thanks for posting your recipe, I'll have to check it out this next week.
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I'm also interested in the brand/type of resin and mb (filler) too. I can't seem to get that nice sway swim with the methods I've tried on my single joint swimbaits.
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I'm not sure what size hooks you are using, but maybe just upgrading a size or two would knock out the roll. Awesome action though.
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I've stopped using it for clear coats as well. However, its pretty awesome being able to filling in 20 ballast holes in only a few minutes and have them sun cured in 10min.
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So about 6 months back I made the mistake of pouring resin lures in the house. Well, fate happened and I spilled some on the carpet when mixing.
Do you guys have any ideas to try and remove this stuff? Perhaps something that would soften it up enough to allow me to scrub at it.
I wouldn't fret much, but I am renting the joint and the lease is up soon.
Any suggestions are appreciated! I'm just trying to avoid dumping acetone on it first.
Thanks.
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+1 on great looking lure.
From my experience with casting densities, I try to acquire the lightest lure possible and then add weight. Higher lure density resists a lures movement in water. However, you can always increase ballast ( to a point). I normally only reduce density in swimbaits until I can use enough weight to make it sink. Sorry to say, this normally is dependent on the lure design.
The lure rolling on its side may be a result of the mouth of the lure being open. Get some modeling clay and fill in the mouth, then see if the lure behaves differently. This is an easy and fast way to test the hydrodynamics of individual parts of the lure to hunt down the problem. The large mouth area may be generating lift in some way at low speeds, but forms a pocket at high speeds which would allow the lure to straighten out.
Also, I agree with Nathan, put some larger hooks on it (try this first) because this will certainly help to keep the lure from rolling.
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I tried to mimic one (based on a lure my buddy bought). I spent a lot of time taking measurements and made one out of pvc. Mine even sat in the water the same. However, mine didn't work worth a dang. I tried making a portion of the tail section from melted plastics. I'm still messing with it, but maybe I'm not hitting the resin densities right.
Anyway, I did do a little touch up paint on his lure too. I just shot createx and heat set it good. From what I hear its still holding up. I was also afraid to try any drastic clear coatings since it wasn't my lure.
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Yea I have been wanting to try that createx clear and was wondering how it does.. Createx calls it gloss top or something of that nature. Has anyone experimented with the concrete sealer at homedepot with this createx clear?
Yup. I've had no issues. Just make sure the paint has thouroughly dried.
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I don't know why you get the haze. I haven't dipped yet with Solarez in the winter here, but I live where it seldom gets really cold, so that may have something to do with it.
Maybe there's also something with building with wood, too, but I doubt that it would make that kind of a difference, since I think you seal your baits before you paint them, and you paint them and heat dry them during the entire process.
When it's cold here, there's a lot of condensation on everything outside, because I live near the ocean, but it's seldom really humid. Since I do my lure making in my unheated garage, I hit my lures with a hair dryer before I dip them, just to be sure there's no moisture trapped.
I'll see what happens this winter, now that I'm using Solarez.
I have to admit that, even if there's some haze, I'll still use it, because being able to shape, paint, and topcoat a lure in the same day is just such an amazing time saver that I will put up with a little haziness if it happens.
I'll try and remember to post how it goes this winter.
I'm starting to think you got a different mix in your batch...for the better though. I get considerable haze in mine if I expose too much light. Even if I do everything perfect, it still doesn't come close to epoxy (or the concrete sealer stuff). I was trying mine in Texas, so low humidity and high heat. Nevertheless, you seem to talk a different story with your solarez trials than the rest of us. All I can think of is you have a different mix with less wax.
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Where do you guys get your createx clear? I have looked at most of the sites that sell createx and can not seem to find a clear in createx. What am I missing here? Thanks guys I know you will set me straight.
Hobby Lobby
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I print a bunch of small signatures on label paper. I spray createx clear over them afterward. So far, I haven't had any issues with eagle supreme running or wrinkling anything.
Syringe And Needle For Epoxy
in Hard Baits
Posted
tractor supply--- veterinary care (large animal). This is where I get my 60cc syringes too.