bryanmc

You need to heat the plastic to 350 for it to fully convert. When I cook plastic, I take it to 350 and add my colorant. Then I let it cool to 320 - 330 before I add glitter and pour. Subsequent reheats don't need to go over 320 or whenever the plastic just gets pourable again.

What temp are you pouring at? The cooler the plastic, the better the glitter will stay suspended.

I disassemble the glue gun and thread the end where the stick goes in to screw onto the valve outlet. When I'm using the pot I have the glue gun tip plugged in and never have any issues with the plastic flowing.

Only one I've ever used is the one on the website. He always calls back in a day or three. He has a facebook presence as well.

I drill the hole between the element and the outside edge of the pot. I also take the element out of a hot glue gun and adapt it to the outlet of the spout. It keeps the nozzle clear all the time.

I use mine mostly for hand pour molds.

Can you post a pic of the other half?

Agree with slowfish, looks like a venting issue. Have you talked to whoever cut the mold?

We always drilled them and threaded them for the pipe thread on the spout, then cut them flush with the inside of the pot after they were threaded in. A nut would get in the way of the stirrer.

Did you actually call and talk to Jeff?

What's the ratio of sprue to heads? Looks like there would be a lot of lead left in the mold. I think it's a cool setup, just a curiosity question.

In the beginning (if I'm not mistaken) DO was repackaged bait plastics (polysol) and everyone loved it. I knew they changed suppliers but didn't know until recently it was to chemionics. I bought a few gallons of chemionics from Bear back in the day and liked it, but it seems they aren't as consistent anymore.

There was a guy in the classifieds selling stirrers. If you know someone with a drill press getting a pot drilled and tapped for a spout takes about 5 minutes.

Is it turning yellow on the initial heating or reheats?

Bait Plastics manufacturers their own plastic, they're not a "repackager"... Maybe the numbers are durometer values.