cidgrad

Were there any cracks in the finish? Somehow you had water intrusion.

Misunderstood - you said repair business - so thought you needed blanks to do splices, etc. I'd order a printed catalog from MudHole and check out their website. They have a very large selection and you can buy everything you need there to save on shipping. Some of the other vendors, you kinda need to know what you are looking for because their online catalogs aren't so good.

Huge list of vendors out there - Mudhole, Bingham, Anglers Workshop, etc... If you are just needing scraps to do repairs, I'd suggest looking for broken rods at trash cans at the boat landing, salvation army/goodwill thrift stores, asking the guy at your local bait shop, etc. Buying blanks just for repairs gets expensive - fast. You might even better to go to WalMart and buy $15 off the rack rods and cut them up. Cheapest blanks out there are in the $20 range and you'll have to add minimum $15 shipping to that. Just a thought.

Not sure if I can post this link, so my apologies if it violates a rule - flog me later! http://www.ultimatebass.com/-general-bass-fishing-links-275/1371-micro-guides-what-where-when.html All I build is on top (in line) and have not built a rod since June of last year without micros. I have 100+ micro rods on the water from just this year with no breaks, no failures (well one totally user error - nothing to do with the guides), and many repeat clients. I may use one more guide than "big" guides - just really depends on the blank. Size 4s pass a uni just fine. I just had a guy from FL today say his micro rod with 50# braid, 20# fluoro leader performed flawless on redfish and the knot did just fine - size 4 Fujis. I wouldn't go smaller than a 4 with leader knots. The new Fuji tips are appearing to do very well - model ID is BMCAT for the Alconites.

I'm not Matt, but maybe I can help. I've built on 6 MB844s, 2 MB843s, 2 L904s, 1 SJ 783, and 1 MB941. I had some of the first ones before they were available to everyone. I had a problem with one blank - looked more like a longbow. Called, new blank arrived two days later. Can't complain there. Haven't had that problem with following shipments. I've found the blanks so far to be very consistent within the given model (where I have done multiples). I've built on blanks that were straighter, but for the price it's acceptable. I've found the blanks to very efficient using the rating method Matt uses. (Matt - like over 9). Finished MB844 comes in at 3.65oz, MB843 came in at 3.6 oz. Not bad. Don't have other weights in front of me. Think the SJ783 was in the 3.3 oz range finished, but I trimmed it a couple inches. The L904s were out of whack because I had carbon grips on them so weights ended up wierd. Based on specs alone, you can't come much closer to the IMXs without it being them. I have found the MB and SJ rods to be pretty fast actions but plenty of power and outstanding with fish on the line. I wasn't thrilled with the MB941, just seemed a little "noodlie" to me (if that's a word). The L904 is pretty stout and would make a great flipping rod. I'm not a fan of the finish as my thread slid on it trying to wrap it up, so drove me nuts. The finish on the freshwater blanks is very uniform, does not come off with denat, and seems pretty tough. Nice matte sheen that matches everything. Sensitivity wise, I haven't dialed in with them on feel techniques enough yet to fairly judge and give an honest opnion. I believe they make a real nice custom rod, especially at the price point you can sell them for. Definitely opens up some options for us small time guys. They won't replace my main blank lines, but they have opened up some new clients for me already and let me offer a few more options with budgets in mind. Give them a try - you'll be pleased.

seen the price tags on them? Ouch... (unless I got bad info...)

Munkin - drop me a message. Might can work something out. 21xdc - I got my hands full building rods. Thanks for your concern though. I can't seem to get the Collins link to work. All I see is a weight, an egg jig, and tube weight. Maybe a browser issue.

Thanks. I tried to IM him but it says his IM box is full. Hopefully email will work!

Where can I get some besides Barlow's? Maybe a sponsor or someone else here is pouring them? I'd like to give someone else some $ besides them (not that there is anything wrong with them, just rather give it to a little guy!). If so, hit me up with an IM and prices. Thanks!

Thanks Chris - either that or give me their phone #. I have a buddy who is devoted to the old brass blade kind and I'd like to buy him a few.

At least you and I agree you don't throw numbers at someone! That's a start toward happiness! This progressed into blank measurement when you started throwing numbers and to use those # you have to understand them which means the methodology behind discovery. Otherwise they are useless info to someone who doesn't have that piece. Kinda like putting together a puzzle without a picture. I would still be interested in a definition of power to weight ratio so we can get back to a better understanding of why your critique of Rogues vs St Croix is as it was and I can have a better understanding of your perspective. You really did peak my curiosity with that measurement. Sounds like your tip measurement is similar to AA in the CCS - regardless of the method, you're coming up with that number using a baseline. Again, I know the CCS because its well published (but not a devotee). I agree that as a builder that info can at times can be helpful. I would be very interested in your data comparing a BB796 to a 5C76HMF.

BobP - you have a very level headed approach to looking at it. I build for customers and personally I can't imagine dropping numbers on them like that. Maybe for some it would be helpful, but for most they are going to pick up the rod and give it the old shake test - for them that's as precise as a formula based methodology when they have no understanding of the numbers and the terms I'm still confused on the Power to Weight ratio. I'm seeing a lot of "lower" and "higher". What's the base line? Does power to weight mean resistance to bending vs weight of the blank? If so, why is that important - what measure is that giving us? Is it a type of index? Finished blank or bare blank? BobP - you hit the nail on the head - what matters at the end of the day is the finished rod on the water with a lure tied on being casted. Will it work and does the angler like it?

Matt - Apology accepted. Thanks. You're dropping this "Power to weight ratio" - explain what that means. Again the numbers mean nothing to me without an explanation. I really am interested in understanding what your formula tells. I'm also interested in the deflection measure. If the blank has a "soft" tip, couldn't it deflect with less weight but still have more "backbone" than a blank with a "harder" tip? Again, I simply don't know your calculations. Right now, your numbers are unsupported. No need to defend - not asking for defense - I'd just like to see the support and methodology. Unsupported math is no better than an opinion.It's 100% objective at that point until it can be verified, and at the least understood. I'm curious - compare a Rogue BB796 to a 5C711HMF and let me know the power to weight ratio (with that explained) and final build weights. Both rods can be built to perform the same functions in bass fishing. How would you evenly compare the MB704 to something in the St Croix line up? St Croix has nothing with a 1/4 to 3/4oz lure rating. BobP - the Rogues have no "clearcoat". The rods are just plain graphite with no top coat. You can put a scotchbrite pad on one and you won't see a difference in the finish. I believe this is an advantage as there's no added weight or impact to blank flex from a paint job.

Matt - no need to take that tone. Really... Since you brought it up, are you using the CCS? Some other set of measurements? Please share your methodology so we can all validate your numbers as accurate and understand how they are derived more than anything. I can see numbers all day but until I can duplicate and decifer - they mean nothing. I would be interested to see as I may learn something from it.

Thanks for the info. Is there a reason you prefer the blade in the center? More success, etc? The shorter arm bait is what interested me a little and prompted the question. Particularly on a single blade bait. I'm sure I will need to play with them and test, but just wondered to save some mistakes and wasted bodies.