highwayman

"Now for the rest of the story"(Paul Harvey) Finally got out to use the doctored rod and it worked pretty good-for a while.The splice broke on a cast.When I cut it open to find out what happened I found that what I thought was the metal butt plate was actually the original plastic one that came unglued.All the stuff I did held-at least for now.So epoxied everything back up and will try round two!

I've finished it and hopefully will get a chance to try it out.There is a story that comes with it though.I hadn't gotten around to getting a 6mm test bolt from the hardware store.My wife asked me to change a leaking hose nozzle.When I was changing it ,I noticed it was made in China (what a surprise!) but the adjuster thread on the end of it looked like a 1/4"-6mm size and much to my surprise it worked in the tapped butt end.I used JB weld epoxy and JB weld regular because I used a washer,a dowl,the 6mm threaded rod,then wrapped with shrink rod grip.Keeping my fingers crossed on it holding up and getting out!

It is said that a lazy man will find an easier way to do a job before a smart man will.In this case a cheap man over clever man (or maybe a cheap clever man) Thanks either way.

Thanks for the input.I'll try a 6mm/1.00 bolt from the hardware store for fit.Ya, Mark just using the threaded butt end probably wouldn't be sturdy enough.I intend on using another section of handle,glue, and wrapping.Thanks again!

I bought some 4' soft swimbaits (Berkley I think) that worked pretty well but got torn up easily.They were hollow bodied so I filled the void with caulk and used weighted hook with a screw thing.The caulk was tough enough to hold the screw and hook in place so I could catch multiple fish on the same lure.Normally I don't mess with soft baits this much but I think they discontinued making this style bait.

Gas grill rotisserie motors work pretty well and are easy to find

In my old age I've discovered I need more leverage to haul in all those lunkers I catch (I wish;I'm just feeble)I have a Bass Pro Shops rod that has tapped end cap but when I tried a SAE 1/4-20 and a 1/4-28 neither would start.If it is a metric thread what size would it be?Thanks in advance!

I don't do much lead pouring but I do use sheet lead to add weight to plastic baits by wrapping pieces around the treble shanks to get them to run a little deeper or suspend. A contractor used it for flashing and I took the leftovers.

I've picked up some beat up salt water lures at flea markets-tag sales striped them down and Jig Skinned them or do my old lady shower curtain perch paint job I use them for pike fishing.One place I go to sells them as decorations in cottages and I can usually get three big Rebels\Bombers for 10$.I don't know what volume you are looking for but this works for my needs

It seems that everyone who has one likes it.Too bad a larger company doesn't pick up the line.There seems to be a demand for the product.

I saw one of these a Bassmaster mag.Dragged my feet on getting one and now I'm told that they are out of business.Is this right? Anyone know where I can get one?

I'm about as low tech as it gets.I've foiled stick baits and used an olive drab Sharpie (which I have a hard time finding) to get a color that looks close to that,then Devcon finish.

I took the leap of faith and mounted the hooks at the 2 1\2 and 5 1\2 marks.I put the eye screws in at an angle so they wouldn't hit the hinge screws.Unfortunately winter won't loosen it's grip on New England and I'm having a bit of a poor spell .Once I get back on my feet and the weather breaks I'll get out a progress report.Thanks for all the input.

Thanks for the reply Mark.Just to make it easier to understand could you use the measurements on the ruler for the hook placements? 2 1\2 and 5 1\2 is that what you are thinking?

This is why I asked for help.I assumed putting hooks on the rear section would kill the action but both of you feel differently.The tail is a lure box divider.Your take on the hard tail is interesting. This was my first try at a swimbait. After making it I lost interest and put it away.Then I put my old lady shower curtain paint job on it and put it away again.Then I put scales\mesh on it and put it away again.Then I stripped it and Jig Skinned it.I made another one that I finished that is similar.I call it my summer bait-summer the times it works and summer the time it doesn't.Maybe if "we" can get this one to swim right, I can get the other one to be more consistent.Thanks for the input.

One of the things that I'm trying to avoid is hooks that tangle with each other.I have a lot of store bought baits that do this and it drives me crazy.I think that is poor design by the manufactures.I was thinking about using an eye screw for the pin and hook position in the second section and one around the 5 1\2" mark on the front section.Probably shouldn't consider putting a hook in the last section?Thanks for the response.

Need some guidance on hook positioning. You guys do more of this stuff than I do. It's wood (pine) with some ballast. Think it will sink when hooks are added. Just trying to avoid a lot of drilling and filling in the trial and error procedure. Don't worry, I won't speak badly of you if your suggestion doesn't work. Thanks in advance for any input.

Being the worlds worst knot tier those paperclip lure connectors looked inviting so I got some in the different sizes.They worked pretty well until while using a Savage Bluegill,I set on a 20" pike and came back with nothing.I thought that the line had a weak spot in it causing the problem and proceeded to resupply and had the same thing happen .This time I had the fish on for while before it came off.When I checked the knot was still tied at the end of the line:it slid off the clip.Straight retrieve lures didn't seem to be affected but jerk and pause retrieves were.I thought a little recessed bump or a small stop where the line attaches might stop slippage.I got snagged once and was trying to break 20# braid when it came free.I thought the clip would have failed but was surprised that it was still proper shape.

Interesting input.I've read this complete topic a couple times and how many times has the word" fun" been used?(I'll give you a hint-none) A lot of us just do it for fun.I don't have a problem with doing it for all the reasons mentioned previously but for me it's fun to do and being successful (catching fish) on a lure I made or repainted makes it all worth while.I don't know if the next great lure will come from someone on this site-lord knows that there has been a lot of discussions about physics and dynamics etc.What I will tell you is that information shared here has made it a lot easier for lure hacks like me to be able to be successful.So there is innovation within the process.Someone didn't wake up one day and invent the space shuttle it was a step by step evolution.How many times have we heard the story of two guys trolling with the same lure;same a amount of line out ;same line test,and one guy catches all the fish and the other guy doesn't catch a thing.Why?Was one a magic lure?Maybe that's the driving force for all of us-finding the magic.Good luck to all!

Another site I frequent;slammers are the hot ticket and some of the pictures that are shown would make you guys cringe.They have so much hook rash that they are down to bear wood and they are still catching impressive fish.One guy (probably the best on the site) soaks a bait overnight so it will dive to a desired depth.I'd have to agree that action not beauty is the most important.Beauty catches the angler action catches the fish!I've got a tackle box full of lures that look good in your hand but don't produce.

Foiling is a lot easier if the bait has textured scales (rehab)To make scales from scratch I use regular tin foil , a coarse file,and a wallpaper boarder roller to emboss a scale finish.Then Elmers spray glue to attach to lure.Can't get too aggressive with the foil because the pattern will flatten out.Just lay it on and let the glue set.I've been using Sharpies.They are kind of transparent,alot of colors to choose from,and pretty easy.To get rid of the hard edges lightly moisten a paper towel with alcohol and gently rub the area.The alchohol helps blend the colors and soften the edge.I can't paint so this works pretty well for me.Oh ya I coat the bait with Devcon epoxy to finish.Sometimes the original sharpie color fades when epoxied (usually light blue) Just redo the color when the epoxy cures and recoat.

Always impressed with the beautiful (artwork) entries in the gallery.I would be afraid to tie one on for fear of a cast-off or bite-off.Keep up the good work boys!

Ah! luremaking the thing that keeps some awake at night.All this is way over my head and ability but I thought I'd throw this out there.The government wanted a extremely maneuverable aircraft.Gruman designed a craft with the wings that were backwards (actually forward)It took a computer to make 1000 adjustments per second to make it fly straight.I'm not suggesting computerizing a lure it's the approach.Instead of trying to make a stable lure unstable;try stabilizing an unstable one.Kind of like the one that got away on dave.Oh ya; I never heard any more about that aircraft either so that tell you something (easier said than done)

Let's put it this way then:warm it but don't let it get too hot--hows that?I have one of those Quartz lights,I think it has a 500 watt bulb.I put the D2 tube and the lure near the light for a couple minuites just to warm them.Then mix,apply,put on the wheel to cure.Works for me.

I only do 1 or 2 lures at a time and still was having trouble with the D2 getting too thick before finishing.My cellar is kinda cold (50's) which was causing the problem.Denatured alcohol works but I like to have a thicker coat so I warmed (not heated) the D2 before mixing and the lure and that helped a lot.