overspray

Thanks!

It's not all limited to what you breath in either. Your body is like a sponge. If you are handling thinner without protective gloves, your skin is absorbing it in to you body, and your kidney are filtering it out. Your eyes are another way fumes and vapors can enter into your body.Not trying to scare anyone away from spraying any type of paints or catalyzed urethane's, just warning you of the potential hazards. If you want to spray urethane clears, by all means do it. I believe there is good potential and benefits using them instead of epoxy, just protect yourself and do it in a well ventilated area

Reducers basically thin the paint out. Them more you use, the thinner the paint becomes. Just be careful you don't over reduce.

If I could offer some input on the auto clear topic....I do not have as much experience as most of you do with an airbrush, matter of fact I'm still very much learning my way around one. But what i do have experience with is automotive paints and clears, over 23 years behind the business end of a paint gun. Auto clears need to be handle with caution, do not breath the fumes you should always wear an approved respirator when spraying, weather you can smell the clear or not . Auto clears have a little known thing called isocyanate in them (from the activator) that can cause respiratory failure. So handle as you see fit. I have sprayed many different brands of paints through the years , PPG, Sikkens, Dupont, R&M, Valspar, Sherwin Williams, just to name a few. Dupont is what I'm currently using,nothing wrong with any of the other brands I mentioned, just my paint of choice. If you decide to use auto clear for your baits remember this 1. Your first coat is your bond coat. You DO NOT want it to be super smooth, but then again you DO NOT want it to be like spackling and all ruff looking either. You want to put a nice even coat over the whole surface your clearing. 2. You want to wait till the first coat (your bond coat) is finished tacking.....how do you know? Easy, find a spot you have sprayed your clear on, besides your bait, and touch it with your finger. If the clear is still stringy (kinda looks like a spider web when you touch it and pull your finger away) its not ready for the second coat. Urethane clears have what is called a Tail solvent in them, (this speeds up the flash time between coats) when the tail solvent is gone the clear will not be stingy (or look like a spider web) then and only then, you are ready for you second coat. Not letting the bond coat release all its tail solvents before applying another coat will trap them under the next layer and cause more problems. You DO NOT want to wait to long to apply your 2nd coat either, as this can cause adhesion problems and possibly lead to the clear delamanating. 3. depending on how many coats you are applying, (manufacturing recommends 2 coats) your last coat (gloss coat) is the one you want to spray to look smooth and free as possible of orange peel, with out running it. 4. if you decide that you want to put more coats on,(whats called a flow coat) I would suggest waiting until the clear has had time to dry ( at least 8 hours @ 72 degrees) Lightly scuff with a fine sand paper, and apply 2 more coats as stated above. It will take automotive paint and clears 30 days to FULLY cure out. Paint STOPS curing at some where around 40-42 degrees (cant remember exactly) I hope this makes sense to everyone, as I just tried to hit the key factors without boring everyone to death with all the technical blah blah blah. But if it dont I'll try and explain it better or try to answer any questions.

Yes they will, just remember that they make different grades of them. The red ones are like a 220 grit sand paper, gray are like a 600 grit

Sounds like some tips and tricks Thanks for the help guys. I'll let you know how they come out

Thats a great idea...................and those cranks look amazing.

How does everyone keep the powder paint from building up and closing off the eyes of the hook? I would like to not have any paint at all around the eye, but need a good idea on doing it. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help

I know what you mean about painting with a spray can, been down that road. As of now I'm using a brush, very time consuming, and am pretty limited on detail, so I'm wanting to get away from that, so I'm wanting to airbrush them. I've never tried painting them with out a primer first. I've been a bodyman for 21 years, and am kind of stuck in that line of thinking, if ya know what I mean. When I paint my buzzbaits and spinnerbaits I use automotive paint on them, I put pearl of flake in the clear and brush it on, but want to ad some more detail to them, like some accent colors. I know hardly anything about powder painting. So I'm looking for a way to airbrush everything, to speed it up, and add more detail. I've seen other people who have spinnerbaits that are airbrushed, just not sure what steps they are doing to get there, this has been a BIG learning process for me.

Man ,you hit it right on the head, I just had this great big light bulb go off:worship: Never even thought about etching primer, it would still give me the adhesion I need for paint to stick, and would be thin enough to spray through an ab. What brand did you use. I see you avatar is a spinnerbait, you still making them. Again A great big thank you.

any body have any info on this.

Thanks for the help guys

Basseducer, yes it helps, but I'd like to stay with spray painting, I've been a bodyman for 21yrs. just never picked up an airbrush, always been normal paintguns. Let me change the question a little. Do you or anybody else know if you can spray automotive epoxy through a airbrush. Any info on size of tips? I know it would have to be thinner than normal,

I posted this in the wire bait forum, but thought I'd try here as well. Thought you guys might have some experience with this, maybe more knowledge with airbrushes.I've been making buzzbaits and spinnerbaits for a few years now, been hand painting the heads buy hand with a brush, but it gets to be very time consuming so I'm going to start using an airbrush. My question is what epoxy primer do you use to prime the lead with, one that sprays through an airbrush? I've been using automotive paints and primer to paint with, but dont think they would spray through the airbrush, any thoughts on this.Still looking for a brush also, but don't want to dump a lot of cash on one right now, until I get the hang of it. I'm sure the airbrush thing has been discussed to death, I know I want a duel action gravity feed, just not sure which one.

I've been making buzzbaits and spinnerbaits for a few years now, been hand painting the heads buy hand with a brush, but it gets to be very time consuming so I'm going to start using an airbrush. My question is what epoxy primer do you use to prime the lead with, one that sprays through an airbrush? I've been using automotive paints and primer to paint with, but dont think they would spray through the airbrush. Have'nt bought an airbrush yet, but got my eye on a few. Been reading the site for a while now, some great stuff on here Thanks for the help, Brian