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About kbonanny

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  • Birthday 03/03/1971

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  • Location
    North-Eastern Pannsylvania
  • Interests
    Outside of fishing & lure building I am an avid railroad history buff, interested in model railroading... I am a Professional certified Master auto technician & love building, driving & racing muscle cars. I've been a youth football coach for over a dozen years as well as a youth wrestling coach for 6 or 7 years. I am a huge fan of Blues-rock, hard rock, classic rock & metal. I have 2 outstanding sons, married etc... I'm disabled due to a rare autoimmune disorder. Severely limits my budget and causes me a great deal of pain, but gives me a lot of time to learn to build lures, and to fish when it warms up.
  1. Has anyone ever added tin to their lead or used straight tin to our jig heads? I know tin is harder than lead, though PURE tin, when cold, will crumble like sand. I'm certain a lead - tin alloy would not crumble and would be a harder head. The other potential upsides would be making larger jog heads that are lighter. I know weight matters when punching through weed mats down south, but fishing the Susquehanna River up here a larger, lighter head would be great for a number of reasons....1) the larger the head, the less often it will get snagged 2) larger head/larger bait = larger bass in most cases 3) most of the water we target bass in up here is between 2-6 feet, any jigs over 1/4 ounce seem to fall too fast and snag far too often I figured I'd see if anyone else has ever played with alloys, and what their results were. I know tungsten is going to be far harder than anything we can pour at home, but when you might go through a couple dozen jigs in one outing, you're certainly NOT using tungsten! I've been fishing the river for nearly 40 years and rarely lose any jigs, but my son & his friends & most of my friends are constantly snagged - snapping off - tying on another one. Let me know what everyone's opinions, thoughts, ideas and advice are on this thought. I figure there has to have been people who've done this before me which is why I'm asking. I've actually been adding tin to make a 60/40 ratio tin/lead when pouring larger heads, which to me is anything from 1/4 ounce and up to 1/2 ounce. The only molds I have that create anything above 1/2 ounce are among the 1st molds I ever bought when I was 12 or 13 for weights when we'd frequently fish for Catfish or with bait. I can't honestly remember the last time I fished with "real" bait as it's been at least 15-20 years as even when I walk trout streams in February, I'm throwing streamers or miniscule spinners/spoons. Thanks! Kirk
  2. I am disabled and no longer able to control my trolling motor with my foot. I am looking for a 24 volt bow mount hand controlled trolling motor. 55lbs thrust minimum, though I'd like to get into the 70's. Must have at least a 52" shaft! Thanks.
  3. Regular "Bondo" (it has numerous brand names) is not water resistant at all. What you could use, and is much, much tougher is fiberglass gel....for more toughness, and a lot more work you can easily get short hair fiberglass, but A) It is very slow to sand, and you'll want to wear at least a dust mask . The thicker you lay this on, the more you change the profile of your lure. Probably not an issue on a large muskie plug, definitely an issue on a bass style crankbait. The fiberglass gel is the easiest to work with, but it may require multiple fine coats. Here are some pointers for working with fiberglass gel (or any of this stuff).. 1) Wear those blue disposable heavy duty latex or rubber gloves. You can buy a box of them (100) for around $10.00. You don't want mixed fiberglass gel on your skin, as it will not be coming off for quite a while. 2) Be careful when sanding this, wear a dust mask. If possible, do it outside....it will make a mess. 3) Cover your work surface with an old shirt or drop cloth. Once fiberglass gel hardens, it is incredibly difficult to remove, and most likely will damage the surface of your table or bench. I've been a professional auto technician for close to 30 years, and bodywork is a hobby of mine. All of the above info is some of what I've learned over the years. My advice aside from the internet to buy any of this stuff is an automotive paint store, though many parts stores will also carry these products.
  4. kbonanny

    Tackle supplies "Updated"

    I have a simple question, if interested reply and if not you may ignore. Would you give a "BUY IT ALL" discount price on the collars (reg & rattle) & all skirt tabs. Thanks for your time,Kirk.
  5. 1) Do you still have these? 2) Is the price negotiable....not too negotiable, 3) Will you sell a mold separate? Thank you for your time.
  6. What type of file is this? I can't seem to open it. Thank you!
  7. I aquired some of this years ago and haven't had too much trouble with it. The biggest pain is that it is paper backed, so you are going to need to flux your pot eveytim you add more, and than flux it again. It is pure lead as far as I was told, and pours well. I wound up giving a lot away as I had nowhere to store it all, but still have 30-40 lbs left. Kirk
  8. Howdy. I've been making my own jigs and such since I was 11 or 12 as my best friend & I used ti fish the Susquehanna River well over 200x per year and it gets expensive when you have to buy that many jig heads on a 3$ week allowance! I'm 38 now and have numerous molds, making anything through full skirted bass jigs through ultra light crappie jigs and loads in between. I also have a small a=lbeit loyal group that regularily order and buy lure from me. I became disbaled a number of years ago (rare autoimmune disorder) and I'm getting an itch to start expanding what I offer tothe locals. I already can see my initial investment isn't a drop in the bucket as just the molds, hooks, components, skirts, blades & such can easily put me over 500 and that is not all that much, just 2 styles of spinnerbaits/weights and two of the keel buzzbaits with various weights. If anyone can offer me some advice I'd greatly appreiate it. If anyone has all of this stuff and is looking to get out I'd certainly listen to what you have to say also. Please email me @ kbonanny@gmail.com and thank you for your time. Kirk
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