slingToad

Mark, Thanks for the feedback. Wandering is a problem with the small diameter bits. I have been drilling with a hand drill from both sides of the bait. I am planning on trying some Aircraft Drill Bits to see if they are a little stronger when using the drill press. Longer shank and less flute. You could even cut them to size. slingToad PS. Kids, guard those SS bike spokes!

I guess my real question is, are there any benefits to using a thicker hinge pin vs. a thinner one? As long as the smallest one is strong enough? I have used anywhere from 5/32 to 1/16 " in my prototypes. (Whatever I could find at the time.) I am using two eye screws and passing the pin through those eye screws for the hinge. For some reason I could not edit my previous post in this thread. Thanks for your help. slingToad

I love swim baits! I have a couple prototypes. Can I use 308 ss wire for a joint pin? Just regular 1/16 inch wire. It seems plenty strong enough with the 5 gal of water bucket test. Can't wait for the rockfish to migrate through the bay. Slingtoad

Snax, Thanks for the explanation and the names of the bits. That is exactly what I would like to do. Should make my build process quicker, more accurate and safer. Thanks, slingToad

Snax, Good call on the hot glue as a filler/adhesive for the wire and eye screw holes. I am moding my prototype #3 to use ss thru wire. I am basically: 1) create a wire template (wood and nails) to pre-wrap a complete segment of wire that would pass through all segments of a swim bait. Interlock the wire at segment lengths. 2) this allows pre drilling and pre coating etc...just drill the thru hole for the wire and insert with wire and fill with epoxy or hot glue. 3) I am also using a swivel for the hook hangers. The wire simply passes through the swivel and then add a split ring. This method is commonly used for "plug" type lures. Lots of detailed discussion at striped-bass dot com site. This requires a little more pre planning, but once it is done right, it SHOULD work well. I like the ease of the eye screws, but I like the idea of not having to cut the slots for the double eye screws in each segment. Now to get this final prototype connected and tested. What is the name of the router bit that can be used to route out the "V" notch in the back of each swim bait segment? Is there a special name for that bit? Thanks, slingToad

I was thinking a fatter wood stock would give me more room to cram in eye hooks and weight. Of course if I use smaller amounts of wood (thinner) I should need proportionately less amounts of weight etc. I started out going for the "real" fish look, with curved profile for a real fish look head on, but I am so impressed with the action of the basic "flat" wood sections, I may stick with that for now and spend more time learning to seal/foil/coat lures for realism. Thanks for the replies, slingToad

Great site. I've been making several swimbait prototypes and have finally arrived at a body style that moves well. I hope to use the baits for Rockfish here in the Chesapeake bay. I have been making mine about 8-10 inches long and 3/4 inch wide. The 2/1/1/1 length/segment ratio seems to work well. Question: For large baits like these, what thicknesses are you making your baits? I plan to make a few about 1" thick soon. Thanks, slingToad

LBH, Thompson's water seal is a great sealer if you do not plan to top coat your lures. I am prototyping many swimbaits now. It is quick and easy and I have a bunch of it around from my planar board project! Thanks, slingToad