BrianB

You need a punch and a punch press. Punch is a machine shop project..

Big blue, Yup you are correct I wanted to know if it's doable and if anyone can do it. I have a friend trying it on smaller bills but it's not working out.. Was curious if anyone has any first hand experience.. I can get dies and the punch just wanted to know ahead of time if it will work before investing in the items needed.

Bob. Punching crankbait lips out of lexan with a punch press not drilling a hole. Sorry if I wasnt more clear

can you punch 1/8th inch lexan with a punch? I know smaller is doable but curious about 1/8th inch?

The bubbles under the skin are more an likely from the microballoons.. It can also be from the age of the resin as aramatus explained. If you open up a fresh can and you still get the bubbles under the skin it's the balloons..

I'd recommend Auto clear..

Mark, I'm in this for production eventually. So you glue the top of the first layer before pouring the next layer? Or is this some magical mix that you mix in with your plastic LOL If it helps I'm using Lure craft medium. Since I am using a temp gun I'm pouring the first layer at about 340 to 350. I'm pouring the 2nd layer when that first layer starts to show (going off memory here so bare with me) around 280? Demold at 160ish.. do these numbers sound right (anyone??)

Anglingarcher, well that is also a double edge sword, if you have it hot hot on the top layer the top layer will sink at the top of the pour (top view of the bait) at least for me it does. So I'm trying to counter that with lower heat. Lol. Double edge sword so far for me anyway

I made a top pour silicone mold of a 8 inch swimbait that I carved. It has the standard wide head then tapers down to the tail. The dilemma I am having is pouring in layers. Through the transparent bottom layer I can see The top layer is sinking into the transparent bottom belly layer.. I understand the concept of if you pour too soon the top layer will sink into the bottom layer and if you wait too long your layers will separate.. The side side seams are fine but you can see the top layer through the bottom layer sagging down 1/4 inch or a little more? Ive seen other baits in this style and I see no sinking so I know I am missing something. Any help...

What other plastic production pots (non injected) are out there similar to Bears Presto pots? Or is there some kind of do it yourself type plan alternative?

Barr5150. interesting. The only suggestion I have is and not sure if this will make a difference is do you stir your solarez before dipping? Have you contacted Solarez and see what they suggest? Seems like your doing things the right way..

Bass100, How long would you say the lights last?? year? months?

Sometimes you just may have to bit the bullet and buy the manufacturers light to know for sure what the issue is.. Sometime shortcuts end up being long cuts.. My question is does anyone have the Solarez lights that they recommend and have any issues with Solarez curing. That test will be solve alot of these questions posed in this thread.

Do you use that as your final clear coat as well?

@nedyarb, Polyester Sanding Sealer is that a Solarez product? I'm trying to understand the difference or effect if you will between shining a UV light on it vs putting it in a light box? Thanks

Another advantage of Solarez (untested of course) is you don't have to turn it and invest in a turner?? I guess I'm gonna have to be the test dummy..

I'm with you Barr, Time is money and that is exactly what I told Gary I don't have the time and that is when he suggested the other stuff.. If it works it's worth it I just haven't pulled the trigger yet. I like the fact that it cures quickly over the KBS product..

Barr5150. Gary said you had to polish the polyester gloss resin at this link to get the shine you speak of. http://solarez.com/products/solarez-polyester-gloss-resin/ This stuff he said dip and done!! But it comes with a price $179/gal.. http://solarez.com/products/duro-finish-doming-resin/ disclaimer I haven't tried it "YET"

Which Solarez product are you guys using (there seems to be quite a few on their website) Gary @ Solarez suggested this one for wood. http://solarez.com/products/duro-finish-doming-resin/ has anyone tried it? sealer? topcoat?

fish pirate, I assume you use the new Solarez on wood baits? What is your process if you don't mind me asking? Paint then Solarez to seal?

your problem with cork is it floats even within resin. When you pour it into the mold it will float upward to wherever the sprue is. Balloons suspend within the resin. My experiment was not favorable. What is the reason for not wanting to use microballoons?

My Brother runs a lure company. I asked him about this and he me this answer. What defines making a living? It's easy to find out.. Find out how much profit you make per lure (minus taxes, costs, employee labor etc etc). Say profit is $5. Say 50,000 is a living. 50,000/$5 = 10,000 lures. First question is 50,000 considered a living for you? If not change the formula. 2nd question can you market enough to sell 10,000 lures. second question can you make 10,000 lures? This is just a reverse way to look at things.

I am doing a project I just need a glossy rattle can clear of some sort. The glossier the better with glossier being more important than durability. Weird request I know.. Anything out there that is readily available. I don't want to dip or airbrush.. Any ideas?

Kelly that is what I was thinking as well. I figure since half of htem are coming out OK then it shouldn't take much to clog a hole. I tried vaseline but the mold got hot pretty quick and it melted but it did work OK.. Not great but OK. Clay would be less messy...

Maybe I didn't make myself clear. I am molding HALF of the swivel inside the head of the bait like with a fish head spin. I am using the Ultra Minnow Jig mold Do-it Molds: Ultra Minnow Jig I have carved out a place in the belly of the mold to accept the barrel part of the swivel. I put the swivel in that slot and pour the lead in. To give you an idea. Half of the barrel of the swivel is exposed and half is embeded in lead. SOMETIMES the outer swivel loop that is exposed after I pour the head moves very freely and turns 360 very easily which is what I want. And other times it's welded shut and wont' turn any at all or very littel. I assume the lead is getting through the other end of the swivel freezing up the exposed end?? Just want to make sure I am on the same page? Thanks Brian