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Everything posted by EironBreaker

  1. No Arky mold available but you can get a Sparky mold that will work just the same. I just looked on Zeiners and maybe you can’t get a Sparky that size. I bought an old Sparky mold off eBay that is 3/4, 1 and 1 1/2 oz and haven’t looked since. But they are out there, just no Arky unless you have a custom mold made.
  2. I used a ball-head jig mold and cut a slot behind the head and along the hook shaft for the rattle. A dremel could be used for that. The rattle end stays in the ball when poured so that’s what holds the rattle. I have a Collins mold for another type of jig but I don’t think it gets too hot to use. I’ve poured 100 or more consequatively without issue. What was happening that you had to stop?
  3. I don’t have one of the Collins molds for this but I’ve modified a mold to accept rattles. I have found that if I pour too many jigs consecutively the mold heats up too much and then the rattle may melt. I pour some and then do something else and come back to it so it cools back down. Also, turn the temp down on your lead pot if so equipped. I also use rattles from Fishing Skirts. I’ve bought rattles from China cheaper but generally you will need to dip the ends in glue to make sure they are sealed. Not worth the savings.
  4. Munkin, I tried to PM but it wouldn’t let me. My address is in my profile. St. Regis, MT - I just updated the address.
  5. Munkin, if you want blades painted I have flat black powder paint and an electrostatic gun. Send me a couple blades and I’ll paint them for you. Try them out and if they are what you want, I can do more later if you want.
  6. Anglinarcher, I don't know if there are knockoffs of that style. And the patent number is stamped on all of the delta blades. The off-set style which the wire stays on one side doesn't have a patent that I know of. The War Eagle buzzbait has the off-set style blade. Battlefield Wire used to make the delta blade and they were about 5 miles from where I formerly lived. Was in their shop several times and they said they had stamped enough blades over the years to cover the bottom of the great lakes, lol. I believe Worth bought their tooling and patent.
  7. I believe that is the size I use in screwball shakey heads. Fits just fine in all sizes of Do-It molds. I got mine from Shorty's but they are sister companies and those come from the same supplier. Maybe Mustang Wire?
  8. lol, well they didn't get millions from me by any means! I know where it goes so a little extra didn't hurt anything. My sister said that there must be some poor lobbyists in DC as she compared what entities have to pay FET and why lure/arrow etc. manufactures fell into this. I explained that most of what we put in comes back to the states for wildlife management and I was good with that. I like to have outdoor opportunities and no rivers that catch on fire from pollution.
  9. Awhile back we had the discussion about the Federal Excise Tax and how it should be applied to sales. Based on my first and only face to face discussion with an IRS field agent who came to my workshop to look over my lure making process, she said FET was based on my sales price. Ok, I took that to mean my retail price and for many years I have been paying quarterly FET based on that information. I guess Uncle Sam got more out of me then I should have been paying. Recently someone here on TU brought up only paying FET on the wholesale price even though they sell directly retail. I questioned it based on what I knew at that time. Well I know more now and I have been wrong with what I was doing. At least it was overpaying, I'm sure if the IRS found me to be underpaying, they would have knocked on the door years ago. I hit my sister up to find out what I should be paying. Yes, she is my sister but she is also a CPA with a MBA and about 25 years of experience in the field of accounting and taxes. She did some digging and found the IRS information needed to know how to pay the FET. For manufactures who sell direct retail, the FET on those sales should be based on the constructive sale price and that is 60% of your retail price. Below is what she emailed me with links to pertinent IRS information: IRS Field directive, see “Determination of Sales Price” https://www.irs.gov/businesses/small-businesses-self-employed/field-directive-federal-excise-tax-on-the-importation-and-manufacture-of-fishing-and-archery-products Here is the tax code document regarding constructive sales price determination: https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2006-title26-vol16/pdf/CFR-2006-title26-vol16-sec48-4216b-2.pdf It has a modification at IRS Rev Ruling 81-226 to indicate that 60% is what to use when not regularly selling at wholesale. “Revenue Ruling 81-226, 1981-2 C.B. 213, modifying Revenue Ruling 80-273, 1980-2 C.B. 350, provides that the constructive sale price for computing the manufacturers excise tax imposed by § 4161(a), when the articles are sold at retail by manufacturers who do not sell like articles to wholesale distributors, is 60 percent of the actual selling price.” So now I know and don't plan to send in more FET then I'm supposed to in the future. I hope this was helpful to others on here who submit their FET to the IRS. Matt Eisenbacher
  10. Might have, I haven't read through the latest FET pub. Guess I have some reading to do! Thanks for the input.
  11. JLS, can you point me in the direction of the IRS info for paying only 60% of your retail price if you don't wholesale. If I understand you correctly, for a company who only sells directly to the customer (which I do), the company doesn't pay FET on 100% of the sale price, only 60%. If that's correct, the IRS agent who came to my shop when I first started gave me the wrong info. She told me my sale price is the price I need to pay FET on. If I sell a jig for $2.50 on my website, that's the price I pay FET on or $0.25 for that unit. Was I misinformed? If so the IRS has received an extra 40% from me for many years.
  12. If you are getting flashing at the hook eye, either a dab of plumbers putty or a more permanent fix is red high temp RTV sealant. If I have a mold that takes heavy hooks, I can use a light wire hook by filling the eye or the shank slot so lead leakage is fixed. Or a mold modification mistake.
  13. So it appears in your situation the production company owns the mold so it is their responsibility to pay the FET. Thanks for the info!
  14. Good information Caster, thank you for sharing your real world experience with IRS.
  15. I mix multiple colors to get the combinations I want. As long as you don't have lumps in the separate colors, you will wind up with a different shade/color. Just have to shake the mixture up really well.
  16. Maybe I'm wrong about how I see the issue of FET and who pays in the OP's first question. I guess a call to the IRS would give you the final answer. Who owns the mold is immaterial. I just talked to a company that would own the mold technically but because of agreement, wouldn't make said lure for any other company. Proprietary. The mold is a piece of equipment to make a product. The FET applies to the finished product and the process of turning materials into a final product is what makes it taxable. This is from the IRS website: Manufacturer: Regulation Section 48.0-2(a)(4)(i) defines a “manufacturer” to include any person who produces a taxable article from scrap, salvage, or junk material, or from new or raw material, by processing, manipulating, or changing the form of an article or by combining or assembling two or more articles. The term also includes a “producer” and an “importer.” Regulation Section 48.0-2(a)(4)(ii) states that under certain circumstances, as where a person manufactures or produces a taxable article for another person who furnishes materials under an agreement whereby the person who furnished the materials retains title thereto and to the finished article, the person for whom the taxable article is manufactured or produced, and not the person who actually manufactures or produces it, will be considered the manufacturer. I think the second paragraph is what Caster is talking about. How I read the second paragraph is the person (like the OP) would have to provide the company making the jig all of the "raw" materials to produce the finished product and keep title to the finished product. Then the production company is only providing the labor to make the jig. Which isn't taxable because labor isn't a finished product. Furnishing materials should be key. If the OP owns the mold but doesn't provide the raw materials for the finished jigs, that seems to be a gray area. But I guess that is open to interpretation by the IRS. So there you go, could be/could not be. Call a local IRS agent and find out.
  17. Hmmm, well I guess I'll need to test mine out. Thought I'd have to mod it a little for a spinnerbait. Thanks for the info!
  18. Really? Did the mold close completely? The mold I have didn't look like it would close on 0.040" wire but I didn't actually try it.
  19. The eye slot isn't the same size as the jig mold so the hook eye won't fit without modification of the mold. The wire form has a larger diameter then a hook. Also no weed guard slot. Nothing that couldn't be overcome with modification. Same thing to use it as a spinnerbait mold. Depends on how much you want to cut the mold up.
  20. Yep, that's a Shawn Collins mold. His ebay account is under CNC-works. Be prepared to pay about $150 for the mold. But the mold is first rate. I also got a Hilts mold off eBay that makes them the way you want but I've only seen one other come up for sale. But I don't watch religiously either.
  21. I'd say you are on the right track. Producer of the jig pays ET. You show that you bought finished product from them with receipt you will be good to go. I'd keep the two brands separated until you know you if you will continue selling because there is a demand for the plastics. Seems easiest to close it down if it doesn't turn out the way you wanted it to. Just my opinion though.
  22. Thanks for posting! He was a huge influence in the industry and will be missed. I watched him give a seminar locally back in the early 90's here in Springfield, Dion talked also and I think Dion's oldest was just a baby yet. Dion said we'd better watch out because there was another crop of Hibons coming up, lol. He was right. In the late 2000's we had a FLW-TBF youth club that competed against other kids in the state and all three of Guido's grandsons fished it. I took each one of them out in my boat at one time or another. Each are great kids. Guido and Stella always came to the events and were just proud Grandparents. Great family!
  23. Not sure of the brand of hand, I'll have to look in the shop at the bottle. I got it at Wal Mart. The bottle is a squeeze type with a flip top lid. Takes forever to use a bottle up dotting eyes.
  24. Toothpick is good for small dots, I also cut the end off a Q-tip and that makes a little larger dot. I use craft paint from Wal Mart or Hobby Lobby and it goes in the oven to cure with the powder paint. It gets hard and chip resistant like powder paint.
  25. I don't usually put a bend in the blades but when I do, I made a jig out of a 1x2" board and an old axe handle. I clamp the board to the bench and I have a slot cut in the board for the bottom section of the blade. Its deep enough to make the bend in the right section of the blade. The axe handle is about a foot or so long, it was a broken handle that I cut off square on the end. I cut the nearest side at 45 degrees, about 1/3 of the end, so when you bend the blade, there is a smooth motion. Other wise the handle would kick off the blade. I guess you could round the edge also on the pulling side. Then I cut a slot in the handle for the blade to sit in. 1) Clamp or screw the board into a bench. 2) Insert the blade in the board slot. 3) Drop the handle onto the top of the blade. The grooves are deep enough so the board and handle come together. 4) Give it a pull towards you and make the bend. After a few tries you will know how far to bend it to make the same bend each time. This is much easier then trying to use a vise and pliers since the blade is pretty stiff. The wood has enough give to make a nice smooth bend.
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