MasterChief

Just buy the finest powder they sell, paint your lure however you want then mix the powder with the epoxy top coat, once cured then do your second coat of epoxy without adding the glow powder.

You can't fish the create waterbased paint without a topcoat. Paint, heat set, top coat, let cure at least 24 hours (I wait 72) then fish.

I wouldn't, just be sure to heat set each color with the hairdryer. Wait a day to clear if you want to ensure the paint is completely dry, but not required when using the heat set.

I have taken several heavy duty 90 degree flippin hooks and bent them to fit in a 60 degree mold and vise versa. I made sure the bend was in the main shaft below the angle to the eye and it is fully encased in lead when poured. There is physically no way for the eye to pull from the hook at the bend point unless it can go around a corner. Never had an issue and it has allowed me to use much heavier hooks, and also use wide gap hooks in a mold not made for that type hook. I never used any type of heat and always just used needle nose pliers.

The molds that I have issues getting the full pour on I make sure and flux my lead really good with paraffin wax or canning wax, and I use Drop Out on all my molds. After fluxing and cleaning the wax allows the lead to flow very smoothly into the full cavity of the mold, even in my 1/8 and 1/16 ounce jig heads come out complete, and the hook blocks a good portion of the area required to get past to fill the cavity on the smaller heads.

Diamond II rod Building epoxy

Making them is very simple, and you can come up with some really cool variations. Go to your local hobby store and pick up a cheap watercolor paint mixing tray, it will have small oval shaped recessed cups to mix various paints in, Mix up your epoxy, add black or whatever color you want the pupil to be and pour in the recessed cup to the size pupil you want. Once it has set up mix another batch of epoxy, any color you wish the background to be, then pour over the pupil and make the size you want. Once it is all set up, the eye should slide right out and you can trim to fit if it wasn't perfect. Glue in place and you now have a 3D eye in any color combo you want.

Another good way is with a soldering iron with the smallest sharpest bit you can find. I actually took a needlepoint bit and ground it down to a fine point, go easy as it will melt away from the point if you get it too hot. You can use a flat point to smooth out any wrinkles formed from the vacuum process.

My work space looks a whole lot like my wife's sewing room, the spare bedroom for guests, the room where all the extra clothes go, the room that the cat likes to sleep in the window, ect.ect But in the Summer time when the boats in the driveway, I have 18 feet of countertop in the garage with cabinets underneath and above. I build rods, paint lures, pour lead, reload shells, airbrush decoys...and everything else the wife doesn't let me do in the house when the weather is warm.

I have done several Glow in the Dark Lures, fishing rods ect. I just take the pigments (similar to sand) and mix them in the epoxy before I clear coat the lure. Works really well and you get a good even coat and doesn't effect the underlying paint scheme.

When using two part for lure coverage I use Diamond II Rod Epoxy. It is super clear and made to cover rod threads so it isn't effected by the sun like some of the others. I am, however, going to change to using DN through my airbrush when I get back home and in the shop again. On my final deployment in the Navy and really looking forward to applying some of the techniques learned out here on my next projects. Chad

I don't use flex coat, but I have been using Diamond II for a couple years and it has worked perfectly well.

I have all my eyes on the sheets, organized by size and color, placed in a plano waterproof box. I also added a couple of those silica packs that come in shoes and such to keep the moisture out.

I realize I am bringing this up from the past, but I have found a bone that I feel matches as closely as any I have found before. It is in the acrylic tube paints in Walmart, and the color is called CREAM. I just squeezed out some in a plastic bottle, added a couple heavy magnetic beads to help the mixing process when I shake it, and added 4011 reducer until I reached the consistency I needed. Adding reducer slowly and mixing thoroughly kept the paint from having any clumps and it sprayed really well through my .35 tip. Can't find my Wiggle Warts pictures I painted at the moment, but I think they were a dead match as far as my eye can tell to the old Bone color.

My Grandpa gave me a rod and Johnson 225 reel when I turned 4 or 5. Had that thing for a long time and caught a 4.25# Smallmouth with it. That Smallmouth stayed in the freezer for years and everyone that came to the house got to see it. Man I miss that reel, and Grandpa.