Jump to content

shadetreepainter

TU Member
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About shadetreepainter

  • Birthday 04/22/1948

shadetreepainter's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

11

Reputation

  1. I hate to spend money on commercial products since I usually modify them to my specific requirements anyway.
  2. I couldn't figure out how to attach a photo. I take a piece of wire coat hanger about 12" long then about midway bend a spring loop about 1/2" in diameter. Like the mouth spreader in the cataloges. Then I bend detents on the ends to slip thru the eyes. You might have to do some additional bending so you can paint without getting your hands in the way.
  3. I did a post a while ago when a fellow was looking for a water based product. I've used it for more than a year and have had good success. I spray the product and usually spray 2 coats. Product drys in about 10 minutes, depending temperature and humidity. I also use a rotisserie motor rigged for a curing rack. I find I can spray a heavier coat without drips or sags. I'll let it cure for about 2 days before I package or use the lures. I get a high gloss finish without it being thick like epoxy, I like this when I paint a lure with a lot of detail. I also like the fact that a the product doesn't add the weight that epoxy does and doesn't affect the performance of the lure, it performes more like the original factory bait. I can mix in glitter but spraying has to be through a large tip. We've caught bass, bream, and stripers on the lures finished with the product and the finish has been durable. If the finish needs a little refreshing, I sand with 400 and spray another coat. If I want to repaint a lure to try a new paint pattern, I strip with alcohol and repaint, as long as the plastic can handle exposure to alcohol. I've also used the product to coat painted spinner bait bodies and the finish hs held up well, no complaints so far. Better prices can be realized by purchasing larger quantities from manufacturer. Hope this helps
  4. I want to pour jig heads and spinner baits but am having a difficult time deciding on the lead I want to pour. Looks like pure lead is too soft but not sure how to mix or what to mix to get a harder lead body. I found a site that has ingots of 70% lead to 30% antimony that has a fairly low melting point and looks like a good choice for sinkers and spinner bait bodies. Cost for this alloy is about $3.50/lb. Any input is appreciated. Thanks, shadetreepainter.
  5. The total combined weight of the epoxy finish added to the factory finish was 1/8 oz. I stripped all the finish and paint down to the plastic. The lure was plastic. I have also repainted wooden and plastic lures that have had a gesso type undercoating that was used to even out surface blemishes and adjust weight. I have used thinned D2T as a primer to seal and even out surface blemishes on wooden lures.
  6. No, I sure haven't. Largest lure I've done is a re-paint of a Strike King King Shad. I've used Seal-Coat on some small top water plugs that a fellow is going to use for speckled trout. I've had no feed back concerning durability.
  7. SEAL-COAT is a product made by a company named Component Systems, Inc. It is advertised as "a 1 step epoxy replacement that provides a deep gloss, fast drying, extremely durable worm proof finish--all with no measuring and no odor". It cautions to use in well ventilated area. It is water clean-up. I spray in the garage but the product was made for dipping jig heads and spinner baits. Can be purchased from Barlow's or Netcraft or from the manufacturer in larger quantities.
  8. Has anyone else tried the RADIAL BRISTLE DISCS from Wood Carvers Supply, Inc. They come in 80, 120, 220, and 400 grit. Work great when sanding around lips and detail.
  9. Has any one used the Seal-Coat from COMPONENT SYSTEMS, Inc.? It sprays well and looks pretty good. Not as heavy as epoxy. Haven't fished with a topcoated lure, yet. How durable is it????
  10. Go to Tacklemaking.com G0 to Hard Baits tab then scroll down to How to Seal Wooden Lures Using Propionate
  11. I thought of using low tack frisket but I felt it was too expensive. I make my masks by folding a small piece of aluminum foil 2-3 times then taping the edge with masking tape. I can trim the tape to any shape and vary the paint effects by holding the mask at various distances from the work. I can also bend the foil/tape to conform to the lure body and it is fairly stiff yet bendable.
  12. Has any one used any of the products from WASCO--Wildlife Artist Supply Co.? Looks like some of the polytranspar colors might eliminate the need for mixing.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top