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chugbug5

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About chugbug5

  • Birthday 01/01/1950

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    http://www.jebswebsite.com

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  1. Hi Guys, Anyone interested-- I found a website -- "Yahoo! Babelfish" -- that I was able to translate the German webpage to English so I could read it. All you need to do is insert the original website address into the translation box, choose to translate from "German to English", and the page comes up in English! It worked Perfectly! Yahoo! Babel Fish - Text Translation and Web Page Translation How to website: Wobblerbau aus alten CD
  2. Hi Guys, Thanks for the comments. Sorry it took so long to repost. I keep having problems with the server dropping my after I've logged in, and I get the log-in window over and over and over again. To answer some questions and comments... Photo-finish - I did that using the tissue paper and inkjet printer technique from the tutorial I found here. That was my first attempt at it, and it's a little crude. But as you can see - it REALLY WORKS! Hazy eyes - YES, it did get a little hazy in the first couple I did. But it can be overcome... First... I just used the hot melt glue I had. I mostly use mine for temporarily gluing up woodworking jigs, so I don't usually worry about what the color is. The hot melt glue I used was labeled "All Purpose". My wife works at the craft store, and she said you can buy some that's totally clear. She said she'd look for some when she went back to work on the weekend. So I'm looking forward to trying it. Second... Some of the haze came from my technique. I tried to apply the glue in one shot, applying it to the center of the eye and let it flow out to the edges. But I had to put a little more on that I wanted in order for it go get out to the edges. Plus I used a hair dryer to try to dry it fast. Then it got hazy. So the haze came from a combination of the glue I used, the thickness I built up, and drying it too fast. I found that I could work it a little more than I thought I could before it cooled too much. So on the next couple, I started to apply it at the edge, then rotate around the edge, then finish up in the center. I was able to get the glue slightly over the edge, and keep it flatter (which actually came from not applying as much glue as the earlier technique). I also found that it wouldn't hurt to work directly on the eye I already applied to the lure. If it doesn't turn out right, you can pop it off and start over. The background color for the eye stayed in tact, I just had to apply a new eyeball. Hope this information helps...JEB
  3. Hi Guys, I'm new at making my own hardbaits - Especially when it comes to finishing. I found plenty of help from the TU-torials, but couldn't find much on homemade eyes. Do most of you guys make your own or usually buy them? I made some, using either foil tape and a red marker to make the red, and yellow electrical tape to make the yellow. Then I made the "dome" using Hot Melt Glue applying it over the eye after it was applied. Turned out pretty well, for my first try. Anyone else ever try this method? If interested, you can view pics of my eyes at: http://www.jebswebsite.com/misc_pics/domed_eyes_group.gif Thanks... JEB
  4. Hi Guys, thanks for your comments. If it wasn't assumed, I was mainly interested in the differences in the woods as it pertains to using for making hardbaits. Specifically for floaters (such as the two examples in my pics). I also said it was Eastern Red Cedar (ERC), but don't really know for sure if it is. As I said, I purchased it several years ago at a local lumberyard for an outdoor furniture project. Don't remember asking what kind it was. Since I live in the east (PA), I just assumed it was ERC. I guess the density info would be the most relavant. But I guess if it floats and performs, it doesn't matter what I use. When I purchased the hardware, I did purchase some basswood blanks to try - thinking they'd work best for 'bass' lures (lol) - but found it to be much heavier. Made it better for casting, but wasn't as reactive when I tried to work it. I guess the basswood would work for certain types. The few that I have made from my cedar performed as well as their purchased counterparts, so I'm satisfied with them. Was just wondering if I was missing something by using a different type. I saw on a post where someone mentioned using a hardwood. What hardwood would you be using (Mahogany?) Thanks again for the help...Chugbug5
  5. About ten years ago, I found an easy and fairly inexpensive way to heat a small shop several years ago. I found a company that sells radiant heating panels that are 2' x 4' and fit into a drop ceiling grid. The panels heat the surrounding surfaces, so it's great for a workshop. I've since moved, so I can't tell you how well they held up over the long haul, but for the 5 or so years I used them they worked great. You can install as many of the panels as you want to, and the only other thing you need for the installation (besided the wiring) is a thermostat which they also sell. I purchased and installed them in my workshop above my garage, and then later I purchased one to put into a small bathroom that didn't have heat in a rental unit I had. Their's no maintenance after they're installed, except for making sure you don't punchure the panel. The company was called SSHC. I check to see if they still sell the same panels, and they do. Thier website is: Solid State Heating - Radiant Electric Heat - Radiant Electric Heaters - Radiant Electric Heating - Radiant Electric Energy. Don't know if they still do anymore, but at the time, I was able to purchase seconds at a much cheaper cost. They were only labeled as such because the surface of the panels had some type of blemish on them (such as a tear or scratch) but that didn't hamper thier use. Hope this helps...Chugbug5
  6. Hello all, I tried to do a search for this topic, but for some reason, I kept getting an error message. So if it's been covered b4, my apologies. Is there a big difference between Spanish and Eastern Red cedars? I purchased some starter kits to make my own lathe turned hardbaits. The same catalog sells Spanish Cedar blanks but seem to be a bit expensive ($8 for 5 blanks). Being a woodworker, and having done some outdoor projects, I have a small supply of "Eastern Red" cedar. Even if I purchase some Eastern Red from the lumber yard, it's still much cheaper than the Spanish cedar. Is there a big difference between the two - as far as weight or buoyancy goes that I couldn't use my Eastern Red cedar? Since I live on the lake, I made a few topwater styles (a Devil's horse" and a "Spook" style) from my cedar, and they seem to work ok. But if I'll get better performance from the Spanish, I'll spend the money for it. Thanks...Chugbug5
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