Jump to content

spoopa

TU Member
  • Posts

    455
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by spoopa

  1. Best clear coats that i have discovered are just plain old devcon 2 ton. Its easy to use and it comes out looking great! I also like to use crystal sheen.... its the same as e-tex. Only draw back to using the crystal sheen is that you have to get the amounts of the A and B just right or you get a fouled clear and ruin the bait.

    Goodluck, Jacob

  2. I would go with what Hugesy said and also you can maybe shave the width of your bait down a lil bit. Then next option is to make your lip a lil wider than the width of your lure. With most all the lures ive done ive always had a good wobble with a lip wider than the lure.

    Goodluck, Jacob

  3. Jed I free hand mine , but you can make a molded stencil that contours your bait and they fit perfect and are easily made.Rayburnguy had some success with this style of stencils. Free hand is just alot easier and quicker for me, but I dont sell anymore(no extra time for that anymore)so if im off abit its just for myself and a few friends baits. ;)

    If the lure is big free handing the stripes would great and IMO the free hand stripes look much more natural than using a stencil.

  4. Thanks guys!

    If it wasnt for this forum i doubt i would be where i am now at lure building. This site is full of great and helpful people, once again thank you very much :worship:

    haha Dieter my fingers have been clear of the bandsaw <_<

    This school year has been quite busy with school work so i have just been painting blanks lately, but thanks to Dave i have been figuring out how to make lure on CADD. Its been quite fun :D

    Once again thanks for this great site and all the wonderful people on it that will help kids out like me and dont mind sharing some of their secrets to! Hopefully one day ill be able to whip out some great lures that i see on this everyday.

    Thanks, Jacob

  5. Move the line tie towards the body 1/8 of an inch. The closer the line tie gets to the nose of the lure the more wobble the lure will have. Also... you have one big hole in the lip for the line tie. Make the line tie in a U shape and make a separate hole for each end. The first time that a fish hits that lure your wire will go loose. The lure will never tune correctly and it will definitely affect the action. Put eyes in the holes on the lure and clearcoat it. This will make the bait a practice lure. You will have to cut the lip out and replace it. Maybe several times to see if the action that you desire can be gotten out of that body and lip combination. The angle on that lip looks good for now. I would not take it down any further. The lip on that lure looks a little over powering to me. If you still have problems send me an PM.

    Skeeter

    I would have to agree with Skeeter on this one, most crankbaits ive made the closer to the nose of the bait the line tie is the better action you will get.

  6. Hey Dieter,

    Really enjoyed the video! I liked your banana lures the most, they look like they have quite some action. I also liked your swimbaits, it sure is tough to make jointed lures that small :blink:

    Also enjoyed your variety of paint schemes and different lures you had. Great bunch of lures!

    Thanks, Jacob

  7. I have used the superclear 9000 an repaints for plastic lures and wooden lures. I seem to get a tougher coat with the wooden lures. With the plastic lures it doesnt seem to bond to well and after a hard days fishing the paint is already stripped off :(

    I really have my worries about using this clear on lures that i sell to people and do repaints for just because of this reason. For my own use I think its a great clear because I hardly ever use the same lure for over a week and if i get a good lure that i like i can repaint it and put epoxy over it.

    Some people have got good results with it but I still have mixed feeling about the superclear products.

    Thanks, Jacob

  8. Thanks guys. Another question- are you doing anything before clearing it like heat setting or spraying a clear over it? I noticed some wrinkling on one of my lures so I sprayed some Krylon clear on another and it seemed to prevent the wrinkling. Is there a better way with this stuff?

    I shoot a very light coat of createx clear and that has worked very well for me.

    Jacob

  9. @ Mercury

    I have noticed that this clear coat isnt very strong, its very flexible but not very hard like epoxy. I use the Superclear mainly for all of the lures i do, it works very well on clear coating metal spoons also. The soft plastic lures will be very hard to clear coat with anything because the plastic is flexible underneath the lure clear coat so the clear coat will have no strength.

    Jacob

  10. Mark,you care to share where you get your sc9000,and do you spray it with your airbrush directly over the createx....Rob

    I dont think you can spray this product through your airbrush, i talked to customer service about it and they told me that you can spray this through and airgun though. Dipping it seems to give great results so ill stick with dipping it for now.

    Goodluck, Jacob

  11. I have not used a Quantum reel before but I have been using the ABU Revo SX for quite some time now. I would say that there are better reels out there for the money. Only thing that I like about the Revo is that I can cast anything from a weightless fluke all the way to heavy topwaters. But the rod has to be matched to the lure and conditions and so on. When i first got it i would always birdnest but that was when i was still learning how to use it, took me about a year to get the feel for the reel.... im a slow learner with somethings:o. But now I like it, good solid feeling reel.

    Goodluck, Jacob

  12. You most likely would want to have a large head so you could get a wider wobble. I bet for the weight placement would be in the front of the lure in that range because you would want that to be the pivot point. The lip will just help the lure wobble more though. just the width of the lure will make the lure wobble. If I was gonna make a lure like that I would make the rear sides thin so they wouldn't create much drag.

    Never did design a wake bait, but from all my research about lures and past experince that is where i would start at:twocents:

    Goodluck, Jacob

  13. Baitcasters and spinning reels both have specific uses. The baitcaster is better for larger lures because you have more power with a baitcaster and since the larger lures are heavier they are easier to cast. The spinning reels work great because you can cast light lures with ease just as Dieter has explained.

    My experince with the baitcasters was very annoying at first. When i first learned how to use one I kept getting "backlashes". It took me a year until i learned how to propertly use a baitcaster. Now that i can use one i dont have to even set the nobs that adjust spool tension. My thumb does all the work:yes:.

    When you purchase your first baitcaster I would suggest looking into a six-pin brake system. This is the easiest baitcaster to learn on, it is very user friendly. Then lastly dont hold back on spending money because a cheap reel will only cause you problems.

    Goodluck, Jacob

  14. I know this is a bit off topic for a tackle making site, but take a few minutes one day and check out this guy if your not already famlier with him.. Alberto Ponno - Airbrush Car Painter

    In my opinion Alberto is one of the few and true masters of the airbrush, not to mention he's probably my favorite motorsports artist and i'm really into motorsports art. Keep in mind as you look at his paintings that they are done 100% "Freehand"....meaning NO masking is used...not even a straight edge....all he uses is a projector and a Paasche VJR....now look at the sizes of the paintings....you'll be amazed at what a true airbrush master can do with that little tool we all seem to struggle with.

    :drool::drool::drool::drool::drool:

×
×
  • Create New...
Top