klail

Very interesting post concerning the deep divers. I received a lure from a local builder and he claims it will easily hit 20' while cranking on a good cast. Claims it is not as hard cranking as a DD22 but will almost reach the same depth. I am a bit skeptical so he gave me one to try. I haven't had the chance since receiving it to get to the lake and test it. However since reading this thread and all the CB specialist here thought I would post a pic and get some opinions before teating it. This is not meant as an attempt to hijack the thread. Just thought it fit in line with the OP's original question.

I had that problem in the beginning using Createx paints. I think my problem was two fold. I was using a solvent base primer or base coat before painting with Createx. I also think on the layered coats of acrylic I was not heat setting the paint properly. I found that by stop using the "other primer" and prime with Createx opaque base and heat setting each coat reaching around 125° at the surface for a few minutes and have not had the "wrinkle" finish since. I am no expert but I am sure some more experienced around here will be along shortly.

I like the ones Pete and Dave are talking about. I'm cheap and just wrapped the last 6 inches or so with florescent tape on my cat rods. Just a smooth single layer wrap parallel to the blank.

Anything other than spraying clear lacquer or urethane will most likely leave too thick of a top coat for the parts to mate together properly.

Best place I have found for Exacto style knife handles was giving to me from this forum. Dick Blick Art Supplies Excel Hobby Knives - BLICK art materials

With the pearl paints, I have found several very light coats works best and make sure it is well mixed. I assume the pearl paints are from a transparent base. The "pearl" flakes will settle to the bottom rather quickly. This is with Createx pearl colors.

I placed an order on 2/16 with no problems and received it 3/2. Maybe your order fell through a crack somewhere, lost in one of those hyperspace hiccups.

I am new to this but have never seen D2T yellow prior to being exposed to the sun and heat for extended periods. I mix a few drops of acetone or denatured alcohol after the initial mix. I also mix in the bottom of an inverted drink can. Mix with a piece of bent wire the shape of the can bottom. Fold it together minimizing air bubbles. The thinner retards the curing time slightly allow me to work 4-5 lures at a time. I coat them and straight to the drying wheel. It sounds as if your epoxy is bad to start. Mine is always clear before applying and after.

You sure that's not a encapsulated bream? Looks real enough:yay:

I've been lurking and reading for several weeks now. This place has a massive amount of talent and knowledge going on. Thanks so much to those sharing in this hobby of lure crafting. I had acquired an airbrush a while back and was hesitant to do anything with it. Once I started reading the instructional threads I just had to start playing around. First started on new print, then went to Plexiglas. Still not wanting to mess up any baits I started playing with colors and patterns on Tylenol bottles. Finally got the nerve to attack a few old scrap baits lying around. Here is the end result http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd284/Klail/Lures/FirstBaits.jpg Lots of refinement to be done to even come close to the caliber of some of the talent here. But I think I will start repainting some good baits now. Thank You TU members Keith

Wow! and from a spray bomb too.