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Army Doc

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About Army Doc

  • Birthday 05/02/1981

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  • Location
    Ft. Bragg NC

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    zzcasszz@yahoo.com

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  1. I see you finally climbed back from the face of the earth (where you fell off!!!) How about droppin a line to an old vet once in a while so I don't hafta worry about ya! Chris from Bragg
  2. I know this sounds nuts too, but I've done a few of these already and the best way I've found to get the old paint off is with a dremel with a nylon circular brush loaded into it.Tape off the bill with a couple coats of masking tape first. MAKE SURE IT'S NOT STEEL OR BRASS. It's the black colored brush. It isn't hard enough to cut into CEDAR, and takes the paint right off. Don't try it with balsa, or you'll have a mess on your hands. Try it. I promise it works on cedar baits. I've done RC's, Stanford cedar shads, and a bunch of the 300's and 400's already. Here's the brush I'm talking about: http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=403 After you get the good majority of the paint off, clean it up with some 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper, seal with some thinned D2T, and prime and paint. Hope this helped. Chris
  3. I went to order some more DN tonight and there is a little blurb on there saying it's not available anymore? Anyone know about this? And Rookie, Tebow is a little girl, and don't forget about my Warriors on the Water baits! I emailed ya! ROLL TIDE!!! Chris
  4. Here's a question for you guys. If I wanted to take a hard plastic bait with the scale pattern that's cut in and base coat it with one color, and then take the paint off the "top" of the scale pattern, what would be the best way to do it? I want to leave the base coat color in the scale lines, then paint the raised portion of the scale with a different color, or leave it clear so just the scale lines were painted. I tried using acetone on a linen rag to wipe the surface of the bait off, but it ended rather badly! Acetone and plastic do not mix well! I thought I learned my lesson when I tried to remove paint off a wiggle wart with acetone and ended up with a rather white bill and a rag stuck to the bait!!! BESIDES SANDING the top (which would totally defeat the purpose of the raised portion being clear, what else should I try??? Chris
  5. Devcon 2T for the clearcoat. You can find it in most auto parts stores, and most hardware stores. Just get some cheap brushes from Michaels that they use for kids paint and mix and brush on. Be sure to turn the lure to ensure a good even coat, even though if you put it on thin enough to cover but not thick enough to sag, after turning for a couple minutes, you can just hang it and let dry. Go to Radio Shack and get some Alligator clips to hold your baits with. Cut about a 6 inch section and attach the clip on the end. That will help you hold the bait without handling it. And, I started just like you a few months ago. I personally do not like Createx. I started using Polytranspar and won't go back to using Createx after using these for a couple months now. They have tons of colors, even flip flop. You can get them at: WASCO -- Wildlife Artist Supply Company And yes, your wallet will be a little lighter, but your livewell/stringer/rod a bit heavier!!! Chris
  6. I was turned onto using Pettit's marine undercoating. It's white, sandable and works great to seal and prime.
  7. Army Doc

    Citrus shad

    That bait kinda looks like a Calvin Johnson modified Killer B2. I've tried to duplicate one by taking out the bill and cutting it down. It came out pretty cool. I love the color on this one you did
  8. I'm (not) glad to see that I'm not the only one having issues with NBI. I bought a PS 900 through them last Monday, paid for the 2 day shipping and I still havn't gotten my gun. I called and left 3 voicemails (courteously) and I have emailed them 2 times. Not so much as a reply, a callback or anything out of them. Anyone on here able to get ahold of them better than I am able to? I don't know why it is taking so long, but I think it's BS. I ordered my gun around 6AM, so that was about 4AM their time. I figured I'd give em at least till Tuesday to get it shipped, which would have put it here on Friday, Saturday at the latest, but here it is, 10 days later and I still havn't heard a word from them. I am frustrated! There was one on Amazon for the same price and I would have gotten it by now.
  9. I can still get the paint from the auto body shop, I just don't wanna hassle with the mess, the cleanup and the fumes. I can't build a proper paint booth cuz I live on base and they are kinda picky about additions onto military housing. LOL.
  10. I know that they are the same "family" of paints, but what I was looking for more specifically is what the differences are. They are both water based, both from the same company, but why is the Auto Air Colors paint "better" than the createx? I know it's more expensive, but what is the reason for it. Is the paint better because the pigment is different, is it finer, what makes it spray better than createx? What are the advantages of Auto Air over Createx? Is it worth the extra money? I know it's not gonna make my skill at painting go up, but will it lessen the likelyhood of mistakes due to the paint (and not my own hand)
  11. What would be the pro's vs. con's in "upgrading" from Createx to Auto Air Colors? I now own 3 different guns, one is a Paasche V1 that I use for basecoating and basic full solid colors, the second is a Master G33 with .3, .5, and .8 needles that I just kinda use for the in between stuff like broad lines or making back stripes, or getting the belly oranged up. The 3rd one is a Air Pro tools PS 900 that I use for detail work. I originally was gonna use Kustom Colors or HOK, but I just don't wanna drop that much money into getting into it. Plus, I live on an Army base, so I can't exactly build a proper ventilation system. So, I guess the point is that I think I could get better results with better paint, so what else should I be looking for besides Createx?
  12. Yet another "perch" pattern: White basecoat Pearl white covering bait. Transparent yellow over the sides Shoot a wide black stripe down the back and down the sides in bars spray a little copper pearl over the white belly, try to leave a thin line of white, but fade it in. Dust a little of that same copper pearl over the black back stripe. Go back over the black back stripe, leaving some of the copper dusting visible on the left and right sides of the back stripe.
  13. If you are feeling iffy about that reel and want to sell it, lemme know. I'll take it off your hands for a reasonable price Chris
  14. Once in a while it happens. I own 11 Revo's, some SX's, some STX's a couple Winch's and a couple Premiers. My 2nd SX was on my jig rod and the dang thing would not hold drag after a month of use. I took it back to Gander and they replaced it no questions asked. I've never had a problem with any of the other ones and I have had most of them for over a year... Chris
  15. I'm not sure. I'll check on Saturday and repost if they are or aren't. Chris
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