Stagio

Just made one out of a cap from a crystal light container. Works like a charm. Just used one of the collared shakey jigs. Used a 1/4 oz head, and for now a rubber jig skirt collar to hold it in place w/ a drop of glue. Be sure to put a split ring or something comparable to help impart the action. It'll wobble w/out but not as much. Tip-- used a smaller (don't know what size) colorado blade for the round end, then gave it a bit more width at the narrower end to allow for the hole to be cut. If it holds up to a fish, I JUST SAVED A TON of money cause those things are darn expensive. we'll see! Worked great in the tank though. Even my goldfish looked hungry.... or maybe they were just admiring the way it shook it's tail. I tried a coffee can lid, and it worked, but the bill didn't seem like it would hold up that well. The crystal light container lid was slightly more rigid but still flexible. I'll try and post some results once I get an open spot in the ice! Steve

Well this may be a long shot, but the Ultra Steel sinkers may have a blueing?!? oil used on them similar to what is used on guns to prevent corrosion while stored. This may be coming out when they are heated. Also, some Ultra Steel weights are scent impregnated--since steel is porous, they have this opportunity and their website indicates this option is available. For either, I would suggest using a heavy duty degreaser or even soaking them in something like goof off for a bit prior to painting. This may strip those properties out and allow you to get a good finish. I have used the Vinyl paints--not impressed. Powder all the way for me if you can remedy the mystery goo. Good luck!

I do both football and round. Causes flash on the smaller hooks but you can tighten up the cavity with some Silver Putty or some of the RTV compounds out there.

Try captainhookswarehouse.com

I have used them quite a bit this year already. I can say they are pretty good in and around brush, GREAT around standing timber. They do leave a little to be desired around boulders when you are bottom bouncing, but there really isn't a shape that will keep you from getting wedged between 2 rocks. I do wish they would come out with some lighter models for finesse fishing. That has been the chief complaint from my customers is that you are limited to 1/4 oz and up. Grass hasn't really come up yet around the lakes I fish so I haven't really been able to test that so far.

Trying to glitter clear over my jig heads and I cannot get the glitter to evenly coat the head when I use it in my fluid bed. I spoke w/ CSI, they advised to use a salt shaker but for production, this is rather slow....Any suggestions? If not, anyone wanna buy some CSI Glitter clear, I have just under a LB of each, Blue, Orange and Red. Steve.

The 1/4 cavity accepts 3/0 or 4/0 just like the 5/16. Seems small to me but more compact lures punch through grass better i guess. I don't find much grass in the water I fish so I cant comment on how effective it is. Check here: http://www.do-itmolds.com/prodmolds.aspx?c=332

I would recommend the Wally World 30 to 60 gallon w/ a "T" adapter to join the 2 seperate hoses into one. I just built another base last weekend and the 30 to 60 is the way to go. The "T" i also got al W-M for about a buck. This was my first self built bed---so easy thanks to you guys! Steve

Just in case anyone was wondering I did my reasearch and made a few phone calls. I got most of my information from a man at www.hallmarkmetals.net. They had the alloy of tin/antimony/coper for about 6 bucks a lb + shipping and said he didn't charge extra for smaller orders. The mans name was Steve---good name, and the alloy "number" was 928. SUPER nice guy and very informative. He understands the problem and based upon what you are willing to spend, he will find a reasonable solution for you. I am not "promoting" them but just giving a reference so you guys don't think I am full of piss and wind. I some of my melting temps may be off. Was getting quite a lot of info. Steve

Well there is good news and bad news---I'll give you the good 1st! Good There is a substitute available. The bad- It is going to weigh about 2/3rds the amout of lead and will cost about 6x as much depending on your lead price point. It is an alloy that is comprised of Tin, antimony and copper. Melting point is around 500F and it is much safer. Bismuth which is another sub but is extremely brittle and has a melting point of around 250F. Good luck painting/curing your lures... ( I cant believe I am saying this ) Lets face it, Lead is toxic, can have an impact on our health (some more than others) and does harm enviornment. I've probably lost 10+ lbs of lead weights jigs etc over the years.... We love lure making cause we love fishing right? Toxic water, who will go fishing? :yawn:I really don't agree 100% with what I am writing, but my G/F insisted I put this in here. Though I hate admitting she is right---she makes sense. At least I still have my remote control. I may not start right away, but the sooner we switch, some by force others by choice... the more subs they will manufacture and hopefully the price will come down... Steve

I use the Devcon 2T w/ a 30 min working time. Take a little longer to dry of course, but dry's clear and holds fairly well for the application. If you jerk on the individual strands, they will come out from time to time but I don't know many who do this while fishing. I use the full guard for ease of use and production. I use the little block I showed below to hold the jig while I drill. Set it up to give me the perfect angle if I rest the bit on the block. I have a 8 dollar-- rechargable screw driver with a hex shank 1/8" bit and drill them out. (you can get the B/D screw driver at Wal-mart and I got the bits a Lowes) For 2 bits and the screw driver it was about 12 bucks. The key to the drill for me was low RPMs. Less risk of it grabbing and cutting too deep. I can drill and glue about 70 to 100 jigs per hour when I am on a roll. That is how I adjust the guard for the 5/0 hooks. I tried the dowel method and keeping the base pins in while painting, but had issues getting the weed guard in place probably due to shrinkage after the lead freezes. I am new w/ the brush guards but this has been the best method for me. Big thing is to get something that has a low RPM on the "drill". There are others on here w/ much more experience, just sharing what I have found useful.

I got some crummy lead on ebay once. Had the same result. I just skimmed it off with a ladle, I just don't know where to discard it. I refuse to throw it in the trash because of the potential hazard. I was going to call a waste facility but haven't gotten around to it. ended up being about a cup of stuff that looked like dirt. I just have it in a box. Anyone know where to get rid of this stuff?

Agreed- The pot is definatly a problem. Try using a propane torch to melt the lead around the sides of the pot and use less lead. It may heat more thoroughly. Otherwise you will serve your time better to spend the money on a new one. Cabela's has the best price on the 10lb model (which I have and recommend HIGHLY) for 49.99. If you have one of their stores near by they will deliver to the store and save you the shipping cost. Thats what I did. Steve

Sounds like you will need a new pot soon, but that doesn't stop you from working around it. If you get a new one, I have a Lee II which I love. bottom pouring. Worth 2x what I paid just for the speed and convenience. 1. Keep your ladle in the lead--it will keep the lead hot for longer as you poor. 2. Refill your ladle for each cavity---again heat is your friend. 3. Smoking the mold is simply getting a candle (larger wick the better) and building some soot on the face of the mold. Hold the flame over each cavity until they turn black. Then wipe away the excess from the side that isn't filling. That will help any trapped air escape. 4. Tape is the same concept as the soot just with a different medium. Place the small piece of tape (1 for the whole mold) near the place on the cavity where it isn't filling (in this case the back of the collar) leave some room between the edge of the cavity and your tape. It will allow air to escape. There are more options but the melter may be your biggest challenge. Steve