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HybridMX6

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About HybridMX6

  • Birthday 06/22/1979

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  1. I too have been sending most of my orders through Barlows. They tend to have the best prices, and my stuff arrives pretty quick compared to some others out there.
  2. Like previously mentioned, a Dremel and some patience. First thing to check is if the hook will fit in the shank area, just to find out. If it does, then all you have to do is grind the eye area out so the hook eye will fit. If the hook wire is too thick to fit in the mold, you will need to decide if you ever want to use smaller hooks or not. Once you modify that part of the mold, it's never going to be the same again. If you decide you will only be using the large hooks, then take the Dremel to it, but go slowly and in small increments. If you overdo it here, you will get flash pouring out the bottom of the hook. Do a small amount, check it, and repeat that until it closes snugly. I modify all of my molds' eyelets, but have never messed with the shank area itself.
  3. I've searched on here and found 1 thread, but was still left wondering how I get set up to do the tax thing, FET. I sell jigs, mostly out of state, and don't charge tax. Last year was insane for me, and now I'm worried about oweing IRS FET. How do I get set up with that? I understand how it works, 10% of the sale price, but just not how to get started.
  4. Agreed! I have approx. 30 molds I use and each one is different. I had one of the football jig molds, but didn't sell enough of them to make it worth my while to hold on to the mold, so I sold it. I find it best to pre-warm all of my molds over the lead pot, same way as EironBreaker mentions. The only molds I don't pre-warm are for round jigs with no collar. They are 100% fool proof, so they work from a dead cold start. As for weedguards, what I do is different that everyone else apparently. I actually melt both ends of the weedguard so they can't splay out. Then I make my jigs, and leave the exposed end melted together. This enables me to re-heat the jig back up enough to powdercoat it and bake it in the oven. I do only go to 300* instead of 350* (as Pro-Tec suggests) and bake it for 30mins instead of 20. When I'm all done and the jigs have cooled off, I just cut off the very tip of the weedguard, and it looks like new. I also have the base pins for people who buy jigs from me unpainted and wish to paint their own, or for those who are tying onto the jig instead of using a skirt.
  5. Hello. I'm new here, but not new to pouring. I've got a few small scars here or there, but I've got a nice nasty one on my stomach from over a year ago. It was stupid, and I was obviously NOT being safe, but what happened was I was making jigs, and had a lot of crap on the top of my lead in the pot. Well, I decided to clean it off with a spoon that I use just for this purpose. I got the spoon, and started scooping. I sort of "squeeze" it between the spoon and the side of the lead pot to drain out any good lead, and I guess when I did it I moved the spoon just a hair. As I went to relocate the spoon with the bad stuff in it the stuff slid off of the spoon. It landed on my workbench on a ledge, which then directed it at my body. My dumb *ss wasn't wearing a shirt, so when it splattered onto me it just burned the crap out of me. Oh well, that won't ever happen again. I always wear full clothing now, shoes included, and always take extra care when cleaning off the top of the molten lead, making sure it stays over the pot and not over my workbench.
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