pluraloffant

I tie all my jigs with thread. But I still use the rattle band collars as a base. I put the rattle bands on first. Tie my skirts with thread. And you have the rubber loops to hook rattles on. All my jigs go in the box with no rattles and I only add out on the water as needed. You also can get interesting levels of flair depending how tight you tie the thread. Jigs don't last me long enough. Never had a skirt fall apart.

Humidity and temp can affect open time and cure time. I work in a urethane development lab. We have many customers that use misting systems on their production lines.. These are mostly used on lines where to nonporous substrate s are used. The issue is once surface cure happens the interior areas can affectively be sealed off from ambient humidity. This will drastically slow down full cure time. I would try a controlled humidity/temp chamber before submersion.

2nd the California air tools. My shop is in the unfinished side of a finished basement. My wife is usually 20ft away watching TV. I believe I got a 6 gal aluminum tank for around 200$

Thanks all, I was planning on adding a valved drain anyway. Thats how all the compressors at my work are rigged up. I ended up going with the 6.3 gallon steel tank. I jumped on the deal last night, basically got the compressor for about 60 bucks off.

HI all, Looking for some information on air compressors. I have it narrowed down to a california air tools small compressor.. There are two options both are a 1HP motor/pump but one has an aluminum storage tank while the other has a steel tank. My question is there a benefit to choosing a smaller aluminum storage tank vs a larger steel tank. It basically comes down to a 4.6 gal for the storage tank volume to go with aluminum. or a 6.3 to go with a steel tank. I know with the compressors at my work, the steel tanks rust inside when the condensation starts building up. Is the rust from a steel tank an issue with airbrushes?

Yes the point of it is to push out any moisture with a dry inert gas. This will prevent the moisture from reacting with the free NCO (reactive group from isocynate). The use of a dry gas to purge any head space as well as limiting head space is a good idea. Another good idea is to eliminate the tin cans. They are impossible to seal well. I use tin cans for storage of small samples at work. Even with the ample use of nitrogen they almost always skin over in a few days. This will vary depending on the catalyst level of the particular LPUR you are working with. I've never actually worked with DN before so I'm not sure as to its open time. I don't make my own hard baits yet, looking into getting started though. One of these days I will have to check out this DN stuff and see what its all about. It probably wouldn't be all that difficult to formulate something similiar.

Look into welding/gas supply shops. Any inert gas should work. I work in the polyurethane industry and we use Nitrogen. Not sure what a 5lb tank of compressed nitrogen would run. But with the cost of DN it might be worth looking into.

I too would like to thank kevin for this sale. I just got mine yesterday. I need to get my pouring area set up so i can get some baits made.. it was nice and warm today i was half tempted to go put the boat in. Gotta get some baits made first.. Could someone explain how that insert style swimbait works.. I didnt understand it and the added $$$ of those inserts turned me off.. i went for the 5" open pour hollow belly and the small split tail. The split tails look nice.

maybe try lanolin. Its almost like vaseline, but its natural.. comes from sheep wool

thanks for the replies.