speedbuggy

Can anyone tell what this thing attached to the reel is. Its an older reel 40's or 50's. I have never seen anything like this. Thanks,

You should be able to "polish" the edges by using a small propane torch and heat the edges,

Maple is fairly dense. But there are other woods that are much more dense, but also more expensive. A lot of the exotic or South American and African woods are very dense. Purpleheart is one of the less expensive dense woods. Wood Properties and Uses http://www.srs.fs.usda.gov/pubs/gtr/uncaptured/gtr_so088.pdf Wood Densities of Tropical Tree Species These links may be of some help.

Beside purchasing a power center, is there anyway to make one of those too? Thanks

Oh, One otherthing I forgot to mention was that on occasion when I cast the line may go out 20-30 ft and then just stop like it hit the end of the line. It doesnt slow down first just an abupt dead stop. I don't hear any rubbing at all.

I am having a couple of problems with a couple of zebcos and and a ultralight Diawa closed face underspin reel. I had to resppol them (old line). Ever since that it seems like there is drag on the line when I get to the last 15-20ft of reeling it in. this is on all 3 reels I re-spooled. I am wondering if putting to much line on would cause this? Or to heavy of a line? I think I put 10lb on them. Could it be a combination of both? I made sure the line wrappings were tight when I re-spooled. My 9 year is frustrated with my repair job..... LOL

I have seen pictures and video of home made chambers and I want to say they were built out of MDF. They were not that big so there was not much of a span. There is another site I fogot to mention because it is geared towards woodworkers for veneering but it is www.veneersupplies.com They have some vacuum kits, valve and other ideas on making vacuum a press. Maybe they could be used to modify a chamber. If MDF is questionable, I sure you could have a box welded up cheap at a local metal shop or weld it your self. I made a few molds out of silicone and cast some stuff similar to alumilite but does not shink as much. The casts/mold were not very think (I was making a few pistol grips) so degassing was not a huge issue. Degassing really matters when you start casting with clear or transparently died plastics.

For degassing just build a simple box or rectangle out of 1/2 to 3/4 MDF (its cheap and plenty strong) liquid nails/screw the box together. The liquid nails or caulk will act as the sealer. leave the top open to put a lid on (mdf or Lexan). I would use a MDF top with a small hole to view through, if you go to large you may compramise the boxes/plastic lid integrety. Screw/liquid nails a fitting into the top or side of the box for the vacuum fitting. Use simple stick on weather stripping from Home depot for the top sealent. Sometimes if you don't pull a strong enough vacuum (27lbs if I remember) you can do more damage than good because the air bubbles will actually expand as you start to draw vacuum (less atmospheric pressure), and if the vacuum is not strong enough the air bubble will not be able to surface due to the tension in the material itself. Similar to scuba diving the deeper you go the more the air compresses, you rise and oxygen expands. Hope I made sense. There is some good information and FREE how to videos on www.freemansupply.com (silicone, RTV, wax molds, Two piece molds ect.). Way cool:yay: If your garage is wired for 220 Volts take a look at www.surpluscenter.com the used to have a GAST 220 rotary vacuum moter for about $90 which I think is cheap Gast's are excelent pumps. Let me know if you need any other links for moldmaking supplies, I have a bunch. Sorry for rambling on!

I was thinking it might be an exacto blade holder or some type of small hiand pin drill, I never thought of hemostats. Thanks

What it that little metal device that I see a lot of people holding their lure with? It looks like it clamps on to the screw eye. Thanks,

If I'm not mistaken there are two types of red cedar. 1. Red Aromatic cedar which is oily and has that traditional cedar closet smell. 2. Western Red cedar. I find it's properties are closer to that of white cedar. Not as oily. Birdman I am wondering if you had some aeromatic cedar? I have just started making lure, but have been woodworking for years. I have never had a problem with western Red Cedar offgassing bubbles through a finish. Aeromatic cedar can though. I usually wipe it down really good with a denatured alchohol or other oil reducer (japan drier) to free iy of the top layers of oil first. Just my experience.

Have you used any of the color changing paints? If so do they perform as advertised?

Has anybody used these? I bought two different colors. Some of their paints are supposed to change or flip colors depending on how the light hit it. I haven't tried em yet. I bought it at a local RC hobby shop. The paint is mainly used for plastics and will dry somewhat flexible. The salesman said it works great on wood too. He also said he uses it on lures he makes. (might have been a sales pitch). One "fast change" Purple I think it requires a black basecoat first. PARMA/PSE FASCHANGE PURPLE and one "FastFlip color or PARMA/PSE - FASKOLOR Paint Shop, FASKOLOR FASFLIP Colors They also make something called fast mask. Kind of a brush on masking material. I saw some examples and it look neat with brush stroke type of masking. http://www.shopatron.com/product/part_number=40282/137.0.6089.0.0.0.0 The Mainwebsite..... PARMA/PSE - FASKOLOR Paint Shop Thanks all