swimb8s

Definitely Sepia !

Curious as I don't understand how connecting a blade ( making a chatterbait ) is so frowned upon but we can copy and even mold an original lure and no one seems to care . Thanks Guys

Those look great ! And all the pictures tell a nice story ... Have fun out there sir

Thank you to whoever posted here to use the powder to dust mold before pouring resin in mold . I have had zero bubbles , zero problems with my last topwater lure I'm working on that has very deep cuts for the gills .Complete pours and lure demolds so easy , will extend the life of the mold too . Tommy

Welcome to TU , Seems I can see ridges or bumps , I think they are 3D printed parts

This was four colors in a package , The Loon torch was not included . The pink has seperrated and the orange is becoming seperrated to , tried shaking didn't seem to help. This stuff sets up really hard and tack free . The colors are would pop a little more if I would have put a clear coat on but it was just an example to show you Think it's a close match ,

It's UV resin , I found some at Hobby Lobby they are in little bottles and different colors , can be found in the bead section mixed in with beading tools . I will take pictures and post on Monday

I like the scales you have done with the dremel , folk art like . Dremels are amazing tools . Mostly I have drawn and hand carved my scales with exacto or similar blade , I am going to try a couple different things this weekend and post results

Thanks Big Epp ! I will mess around to see how a scale pattern might be achieved , I think the clear glue can be used to make some cool walleye eyes so I'll make them and post pictures

Here is a simple method for making some stencils I came up with I lay down a sheet of aluminum foil , sprayed with butter flavored Pam ( that was all I had , I suspect regular Pam would also work ) Drizzle hot glue randomly , about 10 " above work surface . If you want thick lines you can let the glue spread before cooling down or the thinner lines cool down quickly - I just blew air on them to set at what stage I wanted . Clean with soap and water . They are soft and pliable and can be clipped around lure like tulle or laid down as usual . I am going to try doing this method on blank square bill ( sprayed with butter Pam first ) to see if it will hold the shape once cooled down , more ideas will have to wait till next weekend

If you use resins you can try these ideas too, The unpainted one up top is Alumires ( RC-3 ) tan for the lower body and the Alumifoam on top . I let the RC-3 cure and poured the foam in mold and use a small piece of cardboard at the pour spout to keep the foam compressed in the mold as it rises - makes the foam more dense , this foam cures very hard and dense but really floats . The unpainted one sinks slowly and upright , I didn't add micro balloons to the RC-3 as I did with the painted one . The painted one is a moderate wake bait with great action , I don't have any of the ones I made with a lip around any more to show you but use the advice above about lip angles and such . The resin portion is heavier and the foam keeps it upright so with this style of bait no weight is necessary . Can also use the Alumilite White to do the same thing , You might be able to see in the painted version some of the " grain " from the foam come thru . The foam may not keep the crisp details . The exploding one was the first attempt , the resin was still soft . Poured foam in walked away and came back and had a good laugh . I have poured the resin and let it partly cure and add foam , fully cure and add foam ( to see if the foam bonded any better to the partly cured resin ) seemed to be the same good bond .