CheapTrix

Welcome!.....I have an aunt/uncle and 3 cousins that live in Lawton.

If you are talking about lipless crankbaits, try doing a search for "Romans Nike lure". It is a saltwater lipless lure made by Floyd Roman in the late 1940's. I have had a lot of luck building these and they swim great. CheapTrix

Great idea and video.....only one suggestion....safety glasses/goggles.....

Since nobody has commented on the airbrush/paints, I will throw in my 2 cents. You are on the right track with Createx paints, they are great for airbrushing lures. As for the Paasche starter airbrush, I had one of these real early on and quickly out grew it. You are better off to buy the Deluxe Airbrush Kit from Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html) as a starter to learn on, especially if you are trying save money. They are only $17.99 and are really pretty decent for the price. I have 5 different airbrushes now and still go back to the HF airbrush every once in a while. If you decide to do this, remember to also buy the air hose from HF......now you can explore the numerous options for compressors......

ravenlures.....I have the same problem...curious what others recommend.

Thanks everyone! Make sure that if you are measuring Etex by weight that you figure out the proportion based on volume first. Then you can measure by weight. Remember, the density of the resin and the hardener are not the same, therefore the weight will vary. Etex, as most epoxy, is intended to be measured/mixed in equal volumes, not weight. At least this is my understanding of epoxies. CheapTrix

I have found out, when it comes to not-so-perfect paint jobs, that the fish seem to still like the ones that I think are complete failures.......moral of the story.....just fish them and see what happens. I have actually caught several fish on a lure my daughter painted with a brush when she was five. It doesn't look like much, and my fishing buddies always make fun of it, but it has become my go-to bait and always seems to produce. CheapTrix

Thanks for the help. Bob, question on heating in the microwave....do you heat the entire bottle of resin or just the small batch you will be using? I am assuming that you mean the entire bottle, but wasn't clear to me. Thanks, CheapTrix

I finished a bunch of lures this past weekend and went to topcoat with etex, but found that my etex resin had settled/seperated. According to the directions....if the resin becomes cloudy, you should place in warm water until it becomes clear again. When I do this, the settling breaks down somewhat, but I have to shake it to get it to remix. My problem is that it never gets clear and there appears to be small flakes in the resin. Is there a cure to this, will this affect topcoat, or is the resin just junk? Any help is appreciated. CheapTrix

Are you serious? This is your "first" attempt of painting with an airbrush! Great job! I can't wait to see what you can do once you figure it out! Keep up the great work!

I use the HF acid brushes, but always modify them before using. I crimp them really good to keep the bristles from falling out then cut the bristles down so they are a little more stout. This has worked really well for me with D2T. I also never reuse them, just toss them when done.

Oops....not sure if it was .051 or .063 ss wire, whichever one fit better......cotter pins are much easier to work with. Cheaptrix

I have been using cotter pins or a piece of .051 stainless wire bent a little on each end to make it stay in place. Please let me know how your creepers work. I have been having a difficult time getting mine tuned to work properly. Good Luck Cheaptrix

I agree the HF airbrushes are not bad as a back-up. I bought one for 9.99, when they were on sale and using a 20% off coupon. I bought it for my 9 year old daughter to play with and learn. While showing her how it worked, I played around with it and was quite impressed. You are right, it is not great for detail, but really nice for cover coats. I also used it for spraying a glitter paint and it work nicely. You can't beat the price for a back-up. I also bought the Adjustable Detail Spray Gun, at about the same price, for doing primer coats and it works great. CheapTrix

Thanks BobP.....I wasn't sure....so I thought I'd ask. CheapTrix

Sorry to bring this thread back up, but I was doing some research and decided to give the Pledge with Future a try. Problem is....I found two different Pledge products with Future. The first is Pledge with Future for tile flooring and the other was Pledge with Future for wood flooring. Which one is the right product? or does it matter? They both look the same.....clear and the same consistency. Just want to make sure I get the right stuff. Thanks, CheapTrix

Thank you sir.....just wanted to verify CheapTrix

diemai .....I am assuming you mean 0.5 mm stainless steel and not .05 mm stainless steel.Just trying to verify before I start looking for materials. Thanks, CheapTrix

I found the same thing on price increases. I was thinking about trying to make them. Does anyone know what kind of metal and gauge (thickness) to use? I was guessing some kind of stainless, but wasn't sure. CheapTrix

What exactly is "Man foiling"? Just kidding, love the bait, looks sweet. I think the larger netting that you foiled over really brings out the contrast of the foils reflectivity. Nice job! CheapTrix

I thought so, but just wanted to make sure. Thanks, CheapTrix

I am a D2T topcoater and wanted to try "Etex". What I have found locally at hobby shops and such is Etex lite. Is there a difference? Can either be used for topcoat? Any assistance is greatly appreciated. CheapTrix