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ninrugger

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About ninrugger

  • Birthday 04/26/1978

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  1. thanks for the suggestions guys. i have the fluid beds....that seems to be the easiest and best way to powder paint. now it's just a matter of getting the powder paint,...a local place should be getting some granite dust in soon. i plan on just grabbin the hook by the point with a forceps so that doesn't get painted and just make sure i keep the eye clean before i cure it in the oven. how would you guys hang the hooks in the oven? i could probably either string them up with a wire running through the eyes or maybe make something out of parchment paper and stick the hook point into the paper so the paint wont get goofed up. any suggestions?
  2. Thanks for the reply...gamma sells painted octo hooks and i just happened to have a bunch of black chrome hooks that i figure aren't going to get used because it seems that the painted hooks work better. we use them for spawn sacks under the ice. i do have some of that dye you are refering to....i'm not sure if it would work well with the black chrome finish. looks like i'll just have to mess around and see what works
  3. This is going to me my first venture into powder painting. To start, I'm just going to paint up some octopus hooks for salmon. I've built two fluid beds (haven't tested them yet but it shouldn't be a big deal)....and i'll pick up a toaster oven and thermometer for it soon. I would like to paint these hooks in florescent colors....Is it best to have a white base layer? Would I bake the white base layer first then apply the florescent and bake a second time, or apply the white base, heat again and apply the florescent then bake? For the curing, if I have two different color paint coats, would it be best to cure at a lower temp for a longer time? Do you guys have any hints or advice to make this go smoothly? Thanks for the help guys,
  4. maybe i missed the point...maybe not...but i'd maybe try to shoot for a happy medium. i mean, this is america...people are used to getting what they want, when they want it, and lots of it. if i'm looking for something in particular....if i can order it online for 10 bucks or buy it now for 15....chances are good i'm buying it for 15....even if that item isn't exactly what i want (with in reason) obviously, do what you want to do, what you can afford, and what makes you happy with the side business, but as far as selling baits....i wouldn't give them the option to go online and look around...i'd have a photo album of all the blanks and color patterns you're able or willing to do....i'd keep a small stock of best sellers and colors and a stock pile of split rings, hooks, eyes, etc. on hand so all you need to do is order up the requested blanks...for anything above and beyond the best sellers, i'd have them fill out an order sheet, and have them pay for it when they submit the order. that way the sale isn't lost. all you have to tell them is a general time frame as to when they can expect their custom bait(s). it still doesn't solve the idea that "you can't sell it if you don't have it"...but imho its better then letting a customer go home and think about it and have the wife talk him out of it.
  5. oh, bonehead.....i checked amazon and i think i can find what i need there...thanks for the help...but since the topic is up, what other good suppliers are out there??
  6. sooo close, not quite small enough diameter. any other suggestions??
  7. sorry guys if this isn't the correct forum for this, but i figured...what the hell. i'm trying to find some stainless wire to use for making spring bobbers. i picked up some single strand stainless leader material from cabellas and it works good, but it kinks to easily. so i'm trying to find some spring tempered stainless (302). and i'm looking for a diameter of 0.015 and smaller. i found one online metal dealer that has it, but of course, only sells to companies. does anybody know where i can find something like this?? matt
  8. zbass, that grub looks real nice, it looks like wax might be a good option. nova, are you saying that i shouldn't spray a clay master with pam before i pour the resin? i'd like to get this done right the first time and not have to deal with too many mistakes and re-do's....especially if 50 other people have already made the same mistakes......otherwise i'd have to go by the handle "US Government" instead of "ninrugger" vodkaman, thanks for the info, i guess i'm looking at prep time in terms of how long it takes me to make the mold until i can start pouring baits. a resin mold i can pour into in a few hours usually.....the POP molds i've made have taken a week to seal properly before pouring. but i was using a polyeurathane sealer in a can. i haven't tried the elmers technique yet. what kind of elmers would i use for that??
  9. thanks for the responses guys, i appreciate it! i've heard of smell being an issue, but i've also heard of guys dipping baits in gas (to prove a point) and still catching fish on them. so i think it depends more on the specific type of fish, whether they are more visual feeders vs smell feeders, and what kind of mood they are in. a fish with a more negative mood may need everything to be right with the bait before it sucks it in, scent included.... i'm not too worried about the warping or smell transfer issue because i'm not going to be mass producing these things.....yet lol.....i would prefer to use the resin simply because there is much less prep work before pouring. would spraying the 'wet' clay with pam produce a glossy finish in resin? if not, i could make the master mold out of POP, seal it, then with the pours i make out of that i could make a master mass production mold out of the resin. any thoughts?
  10. hi guys, i'm pretty new to this but i've experimented with making POP molds and just recently made a resin mold. i was just using store bought baits and using them as masters and it worked out alright, but i'd like to make my own master. i have a couple questions that i haven't found answers to yet....been searching for a couple days and have found plenty of other useful info this site has so much info in it it makes my head spin. i'd like to do these molds with resin and i'm debating on which material to use for a master....clay or wax. 1) can a glossy finish be achieved if the clay isn't baked and sealed? 2) how thin can a wax master be without it melting down and loosing shape? i'm sure there are other questions i've thought of but can't remember at this moment....so i guess any info or advice would be great on using either of these two matierals with resin. thanks for the help guys
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