spidergrub6

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the replies. I've spooled up a couple of different reels since I posted this and experimented a bit with the technique. To clarify, diemai, the twist problem was happening while I was reeling the new line on the spool. The line would get really twisted and wrap around the tip of my rod several times while trying to fill up the spool. Diemai, I like you idea about not spinning the filler spool and just winding it off the top but some of the spools I use have a little notch cut into them that catches on the line while it's coming off. When I wound some on last night I had line coming off in the same direction that it was going on the reel. The line went through all the rod guides and it worked just fine. But then again, I have tried this before and had bad results so I think it might have something to do with how the manufacturer winds the line. I also like the idea of just passing the line through the bottom guide, I'll have to try that.

It seems like every time I try to spool new line on my spinning rod the line always seems to get twisted up and wraps around my rodtip and guides. This results in what I call the twist and shout when your trying to cast light finesse baits and your line does everything but what you want. I'm just wondering if there is a certain line spooling technique to combat this. I've tried holding the filler spool in all different positions (spool vertical, spool horizontal, winding in same direction, in opposite direction). It seems like if I'm winding it on with the filler spool positioned one way it will work for a while and then after 20 or 30 yards start twisting again. So then I flip the spool over and that helps for a while but it messes up again. Any tips for a frustrated angler? It certainly doesn't seem like it should be this complicated. Thanks is advance.

Stringjam, that's what I figured that bait was. I think I'm gonna finally break down and buy some of that PVC. Any tips for shaping? I use a wood wrasp for the basswood that I normally carve but is it better to use carving knives on this stuff. I'm thinking it might gum up the rasp pretty bad. Adding weight to the bills could probably work. The Rapala DT 20 does that. The only diffeculty might be determining the best spot to install the weight as it would at like a pivot point for the wobble. This of course would be learned best through trial and error. The "fun" part of lure making

Diemie, I really like that idea in the video to put blades on a crank. I've experimented with styles where the blade is on a swivel where the belly hook should be. What was that that they were catching in the video. Looked similar to our American style yellow perch but somewhat different. By the way stringjam, What type of material is that one raw crankbait made from (with the rectangular bill). I've been thinking about experimenting with some of that PVC trim board that the guys are using on here. Do you guys have any dos and don'ts as far as bait style applications for PVC. I also wanted to try it for jointed swimbaits as it would enable testing and alterations without sealing the bait.

Wow guys, a lot of good stuff here. This is really getting interesting. I'm starting to think I may want to tone down my original goal a little and aim for the mid-teens mark like Stringjam. For one thing most of the lakes I fish are fairly shallow so there's really no need for a 20 footer. The idea was more just a novelty to challenge myself. Bob, thanks for those links they should be really helpful and even if I had found those sites, I would have had no idea what to order out of the myrid products that they offer. Dave, good insight on the postition of the pull point. I've thought about this too, my general theory being that the farther forward you put the line tie the tighter the action and deeper you will go (to a point of course). A wider wobble resulting form moving the line tie back towards the nose. I've got to say I'm quite impressed by the beastliness of bentons crank. That's pretty hard core right there. Nice work

You guys bring up some very good points on the shape of the lure. In my mind, it seems like the shape of the DD 22 would lend to less wind resistence on the cast and thus more didtance. It just seems like the big belly on the DT would throw off the cast. But I also know that my personal experience with the DT has proven that it is a great casting design and I think Bob brings up a very good point about wood versus plastic bait shapes: With the weight lower in the belly you get more stabilized action with wood. What I would really like to see is a x ray of a DT16 so I can soo the exact weight placement. If I were to weight such a bait would it be better to split it and place the weight inside that way or could I just put an egg sinker on the belly hook hanger? One more question, does anyone know where to buy sheets of micarta, the computer board stuff?

Yeah I really doubt that they'll by a problem. Very good idea on the eyes, makes em look so real. Did you buy those eyes special or are they just some beads?

I was inspired by a post a while back where someone said they made a balsa crank bait that got to an honest 20 feet. Now I want to try and accomplish this feet as all I've tried is medium runners down to 8 feet. I'm thinking it would be best to go with the thinnest lip possible and therefore am gonna try the 1 7/8" circuit board bills from Janns Net Craft. I'm also thinking the best way to install would be with a zero degree bill angle as that's what all the deep divers have. Just trying to brain storm about the best possible design before I go ahead. I'm wondering if I should do a deeper belly like the Rapala DTs or make a more streamlined bait like the Normans DDs. Seems like a Norman design would cast better. Also am wondering if I should throughline and place the weight it the middle of the bait ( more aerodynamic) or place it low in the belly ( better balance). I know there's a lot of smart guys out here and would like some help tackling this project. Thanks for replies

Just like everyone else I've delt with this problem of lip alignment. The best thing I have found is to cut the shape of your bait on a flat piece of wood, then using a scroll saw or band saw I cut the lip slot for the bait while it is still flat. Doing it this way ensures that the slot is perfectly straight and square. You still have to manually check the lip when putting it in but at least the slot isn't off.

Thanks for the info slowfish. That's what I love about tackleunderground, people are willing to share and help out the rest of us. I've only messed with foiling a little bit and I used aluminum duct tape. It worked alright and was easy with the adhesive backing but does crinkle around the edges of the bait and doesn't stretch too well.I'm thinking about trying that dollar store foil if I pick up foiling again.

Wow, I just saw a post that one of the guys put up right after posting this question and it answered my question completely. It was the PDF file from Createx's website and had complete instructions on applying and curing the paint. I guess acrylics don't fully cure by airdrying and need a heat treatment to strengthen the bond. I guess I'll try using a blow dryer and see how that goes.

Hey Guys, I finally switched from the lacquer that I was using to createx. I'm pretty happy so far with it's performance and it's non-toxic properties compared to lacquer. I am concerned though with it's thoughness and adhesive power. I have noticed that the paint doesn't seem to cure all the way and seems tacky and gummy even after a long time. Also when I tryed to wipe off a mess up on one of my baits I found that the paint peeled off fairly easily from the base coat of white spray paint I use. Do you guys have this same issue? Just wondering if maybe you guys use a heat gun or hairdryer to harden the coats. Thanks for amy help!

Thanks for all your advice guys! For all you guys with the clear wooden propbaits, well you may have been sniffing to many paint fumes;) haha. Thanks again