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garyo1954

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garyo1954 last won the day on February 15 2014

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About garyo1954

  • Birthday 10/28/1954

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    Elkhart, Texas

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  1. You got that right Ben. The other thing is the blank plate used for backing the dremel too was rubbing against the wood. Big Doh. Worked great to pop rivet the clamps into the screw holes but not so much as far as clearance for cutting. LOL Yes to the round cutter. It should be the best. And yes to the springs. Might even need add a counterweight. thought about routing the cable along the side rail with tie wraps but not sure what the max bend is. You know how it is. Never buy something you can find in your tinker toy box. G
  2. I saw that Nathan. 2"X5/8" or 21/2" x 3/4". The price is scary too. The set costs about the same as a Crazy Crawler. We need diemai to make a stamping machine for this. Looked at some of the ones Ben was talking about also. Some nice work being done. YES! to the cotter pin. And the longer adjustment flap on the blade. The Crazy Crawler has been around since the mid to late 20s. Started out as the Donaly WOW and the Jersey WOW. Both used the same body. The Jersey WOW was reversed and used one treble rear hook due to the New Jersey three point hook law. Heddon acquired the rights in the 40s. G
  3. Ben, you are absolutely right. That is 3/16 rod and 1/4 bit. So that is part of the problem right there! Have to work on a good stylus. Screwdrivers and threaded rod seem to be the easiest solution. Glen, you hit the nail on the head. They may have dug that bit up in Egypt. LOL There has got to be a way to hang the dremel to keep the cable flexible but not in the way. Need to give these some thought. And get back to it. This morning I had VA bloodwork. They have taken at least 100 red, pink, green, orange, and purple vials of my type A+. Next year I want a gold vial! And those urine sample cups keep getting smaller. I put in a request to p*e in the centrifuge next time. That should save everybody a headache. Thanks for the comments! I'll settle down and work these out. G
  4. Nathan, Thanks! Been wondering where to find creeper wings. This one has been on my to do list. Problem is I have more to dos than time to to dos! G
  5. Time to rethink again. Rebuilt the dremel support. But the cable is too stiff IMHO. Might add springs to the arms to prevent the cutter from digging in, but that's a minor problem. It does cut. It does follow a pattern. Will rebuild the round bar using a trim router and add springs. Then we try again. G
  6. Mark Poulson's thread on airbrush cleaning: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/24702-easy-air-brush-cleaning/ It's the way I've been cleaning mine since he posted it and it works for me. No sink, keep a tub of water on the table. I use an old Country Crock butter tub about half full. It works. G
  7. That's a good setup salty. Guessing you use a router for your cutter. A lure body every 40 seconds comes to about 90 per hour LOL WOW! Just WOW! G
  8. But I'm anxious to see if it works. Removed the Z axis, drew up an idea based on some videos of duplicating carvers and this is what you get. LOL Or this is what I got anyway. Not sure what I like and don't at this point. Wanted to make the frame 12" but using 1 1/2" angle for the sides takes 3" of play from the center. Not good. Just modded it with wood for the time being. Dremel cable is stiff. Night have to rework that idea. Want to get rid of the 1/4" plexiglass too. The trick is to keep as much side to side movement as possible. At least that is what I hope to do. Hope to do a test run today or tomorrow. G
  9. Here's a video of an operator cutting 16 copies with ganged routers. He puts his hand on the trace unit at :21. What software are you running? Mach 3 had an emergency stop. If (or when) I set the little one up, I'll use it. G
  10. On my best day, I can shoot water without much trouble.
  11. Bob L., I agree with you. I'll take the responsibility for the misleading statement that CNCs won't cut rounds. I wasn't considering re-positioning the material or any additional axes. Totally my fault for trying to keep things simple. Red's machine is fun to watch. As Red says, it is a dangerous operation. Imagine the liability of operating a ganged cutter built along that idea would be astronomical. From the standpoint of purely electro-mechanical, I opt for Goody's Roughout with ganged routers where an operator traces a master which in turn cuts a number of copies. G
  12. I'm sort, kinda, maybeing on going back to dipping myself. Nothing seems to last forever, except plastic in a landfill, nuclear waste, and roaches. So unless you are building or buying only collectibles, lures are going to show use and wear. If it lasts longer than the 90 day warranty on my microwave, I'm happy. Sometimes the more I hate something, the better it works. I don't know why this is. Maybe my mind works in reverse and I should gear up to making things I hate. Showed a bunch of lures to a guy yesterday. First thing he did was pick solid black with fluorescent yellow head. I mean, I'm all, "Hey look at the spots and the nice colors on this one!" And he gets excited on one that looks like the reverse of a Mister Twister chartreuse tail worm?!? Guess it does come down to "paint catches fisherman, lures catch fish." G
  13. Lure blank sizes always puzzle me. Is there a chart somewhere showing what the letters and number represent? Just wondering. G
  14. Have to agree with you. Living in a small town does not make it easy to obtain some of the stuff these guys talk about. Lowes has epoxies. Loctite and Gorilla Epoxy are just as good for ballasts. G
  15. Dupli-wars II! You guys already had me debating this again: What have you done? My mind is filled with rebuilding Z axis, and free floating carriages and OH MY! G
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