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garyo1954

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Posts posted by garyo1954

  1. You got that right Ben. The other thing is the blank plate used for backing the dremel too was rubbing against the wood. Big Doh.

    Worked great to pop rivet the clamps into the screw holes but not so much as far as clearance for cutting. LOL

    Yes to the round cutter. It should be the best.

    And yes to the springs. Might even need add a counterweight.

    thought about routing the cable along the side rail with tie wraps but not sure what the max bend is.

    You know how it is. Never buy something you can find in your tinker toy box. :D

    G

  2. I saw that Nathan. 2"X5/8" or 21/2" x 3/4". The price is scary too. The set costs about the same as a Crazy Crawler. :eek:

    We need diemai to make a stamping machine for this.

    Looked at some of the ones Ben was talking about also. Some nice work being done.

    YES! to the cotter pin. And the longer adjustment flap on the blade.

    The Crazy Crawler has been around since the mid to late 20s. Started out as the Donaly WOW and the Jersey WOW. Both used the same body. The Jersey WOW was reversed and used one treble rear hook due to the New Jersey three point hook law. Heddon acquired the rights in the 40s.

    G

  3. Ben, you are absolutely right. That is 3/16 rod and 1/4 bit. So that is part of the problem right there!

    Have to work on a good stylus. Screwdrivers and threaded rod seem to be the easiest solution.

    Glen, you hit the nail on the head. They may have dug that bit up in Egypt. LOL

    There has got to be a way to hang the dremel to keep the cable flexible but not in the way.

    Need to give these some thought. And get back to it.

    This morning I had VA bloodwork. They have taken at least 100 red, pink, green, orange, and purple vials of my type A+.

    Next year I want a gold vial!

    And those urine sample cups keep getting smaller.

    I put in a request to p*e in the centrifuge next time.

    That should save everybody a headache.

    Thanks for the comments! I'll settle down and work these out.

    G

  4. Time to rethink again.

    DSCN5677.jpg

    Rebuilt the dremel support. But the cable is too stiff IMHO.

    Might add springs to the arms to prevent the cutter from digging in, but that's a minor problem.

    It does cut. It does follow a pattern.

    Will rebuild the round bar using a trim router and add springs.

    Then we try again.

    G

    • Like 1
  5. But I'm anxious to see if it works.

    DSCN5665.jpg

    Removed the Z axis, drew up an idea based on some videos of duplicating carvers and this is what you get. LOL

    Or this is what I got anyway.

    Not sure what I like and don't at this point. Wanted to make the frame 12" but using 1 1/2" angle for the sides takes 3" of play from the center. Not good. Just modded it with wood for the time being.

    Dremel cable is stiff. Night have to rework that idea.

    Want to get rid of the 1/4" plexiglass too. The trick is to keep as much side to side movement as possible. At least that is what I hope to do.

    Hope to do a test run today or tomorrow.

    G

  6. Yes they will. Depends on the machine how I would approach the project, but you can absolutely cut round bodies on a CNC machine. The easiest is to make a pinned flip jig. Cut one side. Flip it on the pins and cut the other side. I recently did something similar with a mold I had to make in 4 plates in order to get what was wanted. Two of the four plates had to be machined from both sides. It worked and you can barely even see the seam in the finished bait that comes out.

    The next approach for a "round" body would be to mount it on a 4th axis on the machine and simple index the axis anyway you want.

    Next is to make them as two halves with cavities and passages for rattles, weights, wires, and even key tabs for alignment cut on the inside face.

    I would note on a recent project using a 4th axis machine to make a replacement barley twist spindle for an antique chair I discovered something surprising. Some types of wood are more abrasive and damaging to carbide cutters than aluminum oxide.

    All of that being said, I actually kind of like redg8rs purely electro mechanical lure duplicating machine. I see no reason a similar machine couldn't be made to make them 10-20 at a time instead of one at a time.

    Its simpley a matter of how small of a cutter you want to use. Even in wood small cutters are slow though. Most cranks on the market today could be cut with a small CNC machine just fine.

    I might note that I found balsa to be difficult to cut withour tearing. I'm no expert, but I made a lot of model rockets and a few model airplanes as a kid growing up. Some parts were just hand cut from un marked sheet and designed on the fly... pun intended.

    Bob L., I agree with you. I'll take the responsibility for the misleading statement that CNCs won't cut rounds. I wasn't considering re-positioning the material or any additional axes. Totally my fault for trying to keep things simple.

    Red's machine is fun to watch. As Red says, it is a dangerous operation. Imagine the liability of operating a ganged cutter built along that idea would be astronomical.

    From the standpoint of purely electro-mechanical, I opt for Goody's Roughout with ganged routers where an operator traces a master which in turn cuts a number of copies.

    G

  7. I'm sort, kinda, maybeing on going back to dipping myself.

    Nothing seems to last forever, except plastic in a landfill, nuclear waste, and roaches.

    So unless you are building or buying only collectibles, lures are going to show use and wear.

    If it lasts longer than the 90 day warranty on my microwave, I'm happy.

    Sometimes the more I hate something, the better it works.

    I don't know why this is. Maybe my mind works in reverse and I should gear up to making things I hate.

    Showed a bunch of lures to a guy yesterday. First thing he did was pick solid black with fluorescent yellow head.

    I mean, I'm all, "Hey look at the spots and the nice colors on this one!"

    And he gets excited on one that looks like the reverse of a Mister Twister chartreuse tail worm?!? :?

    Guess it does come down to "paint catches fisherman, lures catch fish."

    G

  8. Mike don't know what else to tell you.

    Now, I'll be more than happy to help your buddy if he wants to make an account here at TU. But the cockamammy crap about "nobody shares unless they can make a buck" is for the birds. I've yet to come to TU when people weren't sharing some experience, idea, or plan.

    I own a lathe and a CNC. I had to make decisions when I bought these machines. I realize you can't just google "fishing lure cutter" and get ads for manufacturers of fishing lure machines. I learned that back around 2009 before buying my lathe.

    I don't know of a single machine designed for cutting fishing lures as a first priority unless it is homemade. So that leaves us with lathes, or lathes with duplicators, CNCs, and what it called duplicators/copiers/replicators which are then specifically set up to cut lures. That is what I was saying in my first post which apparently you didn't understand. Like I said, I gave that post a lot of thought, and gave you the best information I could based on the information you provided.

    I can think of at least a few hundred dollars I wasted listening to Teddy who said Jimmy saw online that this was the part that so-and-so used on their machine.

    I would have been delighted had you come back with relevant questions about these machines, that I could have answered, or at least pointed you in the proper direction. And I don't know why you didn't.

    But, Mike, I'm not comfortable sticking my neck out on vague presentations when salespeople are going to ask the same things I asked (if they bother to ask anything).

    Best thing I can figure is if you didn't like the answer I gave, you aren't going to like any of the recommendations I'd offer.

    Google "Lathe Duplicators."

    Best of luck.

    G

    • Like 1
  9. Doesn't sound right to me putting any chemical in an oven I going to consume baked food out of.

    Too, you've got chemicals in a hot enclosed space in a larger enclosed space where vapors are collecting.

    I remember doing some work in the Monsanto plant one summer. The same place they made Agent Orange.

    One unit out there makes laundry detergent. Or the same stuff as laundry detergent.

    The story goes everyone who works in that unit is told not to take this stuff home because even if it is laundry detergent, there or other chemicals that need to be added before it is safe. They started that warning after one dummy did take some home and showed up with a bag of rags, zippers and few buttons the next day.

    Heat and chemicals are never good. Especially in an enclosed area. Even if they don't explode, or catch fire, they can affect your brain, and your breathing.

    No clue about how much is too much, but I've seen videos of accidents people have had lighting f*rts.

    That's all I need to know.

  10. Big hand for you BobP. Thought I'd try Future since it has been a few years since the last time.

    Couldn't find it, so picked up some Acrylic Floor Finish at the Family Dollar. Says on the label "Compare to the Performance of Future."

    Don't get me lying, I'm not a chemist so I don't know what Styrene-Acrylic Copolymer, Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether, Dipropylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether, or Tributoxyethyl Phosphate are, much less what they do.

    I mix the floor finish with water 50/50.

    Then I mix 3 parts paint to 1 part of the solution.

    (I strain my paint before adding the floor finish.water solution)

    Last couple of days I've shot both Anita's Metallics and Folk Art colors no dry tip.

    The paint shoots smoother too.

    I was spending quite a bit a time trying to get Anita's, Apple Barrel, and Folk art ratios right and often still got dry tip.

    After a couple of days of this, I'm actually enjoying my airbrush.

    (on the other hand, it could be just the fumes making me happy) :tipsy:

    I've been backflushing between colors and then shooting the GREEN Windex (w/winegar) between color changes.

  11. Read this morning and mulled it over.

    There is no simple, single answer. Machining wood is not as easy as molding plastic bodies.

    There are several ways to go.

    1) Lathes will turn only round bodies. But any flat sided contoured lure will have to be sanded one it comes off the lathe.

    2) You can brew a duplicator to produce copies of many lures. There are plans online to built those with grinders and such.

    3) CNC machines won't cut completely round bodies. Best bet is cutting matching half rounds which you can glue together.

    The biggest stumbling block to the CNC is the pattern design and getting the machine set up to cut what you want, the way you want it cut.

    Assuming these are going to be originals you are going to have to build your own cut files or pay someone to do it.

    Which means learning and additional software.

    And even then there are questions.

    What do you mean by mass produce. 100 lures a day? A week? A month?

    Are they going to have rattles?

    Thru wire?

    Internal ballast?

    Special features like gills, fins, or tails?

    Mike, your question is like me saying, "I want to make plastic lures."

    You wouldn't tell me to go get a jug of Plastisol and make a plaster mold, would you?

    G

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