soonyee
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Everything posted by soonyee
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Bear's 2oz. injector......35.00 shipped (SOLD) Bears's 10" senko worm plus the 10" senko tip, both for ... 115.00 shipped (SOLD) Basstackle's 505 creature (2 cavitiy)... 75.00 shipped (SOLD) http://www.Basstackle.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=505%2D1%2D1 Basstackle's 4.5" Jointed Jerk Mold (4 cavity) lowered price ...50.00 shipped http://www.Basstackle.com/product_p/jointedjerktoppour4.html Basstackle's 4" Senko 4 cavity, hand poured...43.00 shipped (SOLD) Basstackle's 5" Senko 4 cavity, hand poured...45.00 shipped (SOLD) Basstackle's 6" Sendo 4 cavity, hand poured...47.00 shipped Caney Creek Berry bug 4.5" ...43.00 shipped (SOLD) http://www.caneycreekmolds.com/Berry-Bug--45_p_105.html Caney Creek Baby Berry 3.5"... 40.00 shipped (SOLD) http://www.caneycreekmolds.com/Baby-Berry--35_p_104.html Caney Creek Birch Bug 3.75", ribbed (single cavity)...55.00 shipped http://www.caneycreekmolds.com/Birch-Bug-375_p_70.html Caney Creek 2.5" Wutz It ... 75.00 shipped (SOLD) http://www.caneycreekmolds.com/Wutz-It--25-12-Cavity_p_203.html All the molds and the injector are in excellent condition. I have a paypal account. I will ship the following day. Please PM me or email me at bpak5586@aol.com if you are interested. Thank you, Bo...
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Basstackle's 4.5" Jointed Jerk mold $55 shipped The mold is in excellent condition. Bo...
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Bear's 4" Craw worm $30 shipped The mold is in excellent condition. Bo...
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Bear's 10" Stik bait $100 shipped Bear's 10" Stik bait tips $25 shipped If you wish to purchase both the 10" Senko and 10" tips $115 shipped Both molds are in excellent condition.
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Delw, Thank you for your responses on this forum and via email. I will send the mold and a sample worm back to you today. Keep in touch. Thanks Bo...
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This is a two piece pour mold. The temp of the plastic was 340-350.
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Lol. Soonyee was my gold retrievers name. Frank, thanks for the information on the fs6. There are no spirals in the worm. I twisted the worm to best illustrate the edge. Hmmmmm, maybe the squarish worm undulates or squiggles just the right way that it triggers an uncontrollable urge for the bass to bite. Who knows maybe square is what the bass crave and it will win millions in tournaments.
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Here is my best attempt. It is hard to get a photo of the edges, I think because the color is so dark. I twisted the worm to best show the edges. I took a photo with and without flash.
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I just received the fs7 (flick shake 7") from Del's today. I made a few and learned that the worm is not completely round. The egg sack (the center) is completely round however on either sides of it the worm is sort of square-ish. There are four distinct edges. For those who have this mold, are your molds yielding square-ish worms? Thanks Bo...
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Those look great. Can't wait until my days off to give it a try. Two more days and counting.
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Excellent points, I did not even think of. I have been pondering the use of non-stick baking pans. They come in all different sizes and shapes. I just learned that tape will stick to the non-stick surface. Well gonna have to make a trip to the home store. If I could only use the one's in the kitchen cabinet, but I have a feeling my better half would kick me out to the dog house.
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Hello, My apologies if this topic has been covered but I searched and could not find my answer. I plan on using fiber glass resin (the one made by 3M found in automotive stores). My plan is to use the smooth side of a glass cutting board as the bottom. I plan on using a wood frame as the sides and then using a hot glue gun to seal the edges were the wood meets the glass and the corners of the wood frame. My questions are: 1. will it be ok to use wood with the fiber glass resin? 2. will the fiber glass resin separate from the glass? or do I have to treat the glass with some type of oil to get it to release? 3. a little off topic question, will krazy glue stick to a not stick cooking surface? Hmmmm, thats all the questions I have now. I am pretty sure I will develop more as I ponder the process in my head. Thanks, in advance.
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Thanks for the kind words. The learning curve was shorten by reading through the posts on this web site. Thanks to everyone who participate and contribute in sharing their knowledge.
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Mark, I was just about ask this very same question. I pour my own lead heads. Instead of powder coating the lead heads because of the extra time involved and because you would not see the head would there be another method that would: not interact with the plastic and protect the lead from the plastic?
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Is the lead on the hook bare? Meaning, is there any type of paint or protectant on the surface of the lead? My concern is that when I leave a lead head on plastic, over time the lead will corrode. Bo...
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Thanks for the post. It gave me some insight on rigging my own pre-rigged hook/weighted swimbaits.
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It's Dels...
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It's an aluminum mold I purchased. I have not crossed over to making my own molds...yet. I am waiting for some RTV that I ordered to make some swim bait molds. I am also going to try and make a mold out of fiberglass resin. My problem with hobbies like this is that I sometimes don't test the water...I just dive in.
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Hmmm, I tried opening the picture and it's taking forever to load. I will shrink the file size to see if it helps.
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First I would like to say hi and thank you to everyone on this forum. I have combined bits and pieces from each post and have gained a greater knowledge in the world of soft plastics. This is a shot of some drop shot worms I poured. It was about my 5th attempt. I did not put salt in the mixture the first time resulting in a worm that stood almost vertical on a drop shot hook. I added a little salt to the mixture and now have a worm that rests horizontally when nose hooked. If you look carefully, some of the worms have more glitter that others. I think it's because the glitter and salt settle during the pour. Stirring the plastic after pouring a couple of cavities to keep the glitter distribution consistent, I think would help. But then again maybe the bass' appetite sometimes asks for a little glitter at times and sometimes a lot of glitter.
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I am in your shoes. I am just starting my adventure in the worm making world. I have up to now poured my own lead heads. I ordered the 6 oz. Twinjector from Basstackle and when i received them they were very large. Too large for my personal pouring use. I phone Kevin and explained my situation. He was very friendly and helpful. He told me to return the 6oz jectors In the meantime he sent me a 3oz injector as a loaner until he could ship out the 3oz twin jectors. He even threw in some worm oil and hand written instructions. I know I am new to this but the injectors appear to be very well made. By the way, thanks Feank for posting your videos. They are very informative.
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FYI. I just phoned phoned a Createx representative and asked what to use for a good base coat for lead jig heads. He recommended Createx' Auto Air base coat series in either the dark or light color. He said it would be less expensive than using opaque white. He also recommended using the Auto Air colors. Hope this helps...
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Yankee Jigger, First, I would like to say this is a great site because of the unselfish information shared by poster such as yourself, cadman and others who enjoy fishing and customizing their lures. I have always poured my own lead heads and in the past use powder paints. I wanted to make my jigs look more custom so I got an airbrush. After reading related posts I think I will be using Createx paints over a white base coat. I like really the colors on the ultra minnows that you posted. My question are: would I get similar results if I used Protec powder paint white as a base coat? What other types of createx paints do you use such as opaque, transparent, etc. And what type of clear coat do you use? thx.
