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RayburnGuy last won the day on March 12 2017

RayburnGuy had the most liked content!

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About RayburnGuy

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/15/1954

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  • Location
    Corrigan, Texas
  • Interests
    Crankbaits in general with deep cranks being my favorite

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  1. I agree with Mark. I've tried several of the "home brew" reducers and to me they're more trouble than they're worth. Paint companies are in the business of formulating paints and additives. They try to make the best products possible or they don't stay in the business long. Ben p.s. Just remember that reducers are not the same as transparent bases. Reducers are designed to thin the paint and transparent bases are made to alter the opacity.
  2. Bloxygen is 100% argon. Argon is used a lot in the welding industry. You can get it at pretty much any welding supply. One drawback is that you will either have to purchase the cylinder in comes in and then pay to have it refilled when necessary or pay rent on the cylinder while it is in your possession. And of course you still pay for it to be refilled even when renting. One thing to remember is that since argon is heavier than air you don't need to be breathing it. If it gets into your lungs it can be really hard to expel. Hope this helps. Ben
  3. Being able to coat 10 baits with epoxy is pretty good. Real good in fact. Denatured alcohol will indeed extend your working time by a little. You'll just have to experiment to tell how much to use. I've thinned epoxy until it was thin enough to spray through an airbrush and it did indeed cure although it took much longer than normal, I wouldn't suggest thinning the epoxy and spraying it with an airbrush for several reasons. The obvious reason would be ruining an airbrush if the epoxy sets up inside. Another is that you can only get thin coats applying it really thin and I believe that when you use too much DA to thin the epoxy it gets brittle when it cures. None of these are good. The only other epoxy that will give you an extended application time is a decoupage epoxy like Etex. If your able to brush 10 baits with epoxy I would try thinning it with DA just a bit and call that good. Ben Ben
  4. When it comes to painting I don't think there is such a thing as too much lighting. It also needs to come from different angles to keep from having shadows. If you only have the one light bar some of your problem could be that it's not fully illuminating your lure. The way my lighting is set up there is light coming from in front, from each side and also from directly overhead. While it is harder to see the paint when spraying some pearl colors even these tired, 64 year old eyes can see them. That is with the help of my glasses. Ben
  5. The only thing I can add is that I read somewhere (can't remember where) that using wooden stir sticks can introduce bubbles into your epoxy when mixing. I use a metal rod bent into a shepherds stick shape and seem to have a lot lot less problems with my epoxy than a lot of guys do. Ben
  6. Where, and how, your going to fish the lure as well as what you want it to do would be my biggest consideration for the shape of the lip. If the bait was going to be fished around shallow cover such as brush, stumps or rock I would go with a square bill because they deflect off of cover better than rounded lips andthis deflection causes a sudden change of direction which can cause a reaction strike. Ben
  7. Yes, and he was advised that a 2 rpm rotisserie motor was too slow. Given that information, along with my suggestion, he should be able to come to the appropriate decision. Not everyone has to have everything spelled out for them detail by detail.
  8. I've been using a turntable motor that was salvaged from an old microwave for over 8 years. The turner I built will turn 8 bass sized baits. If your planning on building one that will turn a large number of baits, or one that will be turning big lures, then you might want to invest in a rotisserie motor since they have more torque and will handle heavier loads. Ben
  9. Hi Basshoe, Welcome to TU. Hate to say it, but I can't help you with the vinyl lure paint. I've never used it so don't know anything that would be of help to you as far as the problems your having. My only suggestion would be to post this in the Wire Baits forum. There are a lot of very knowledgeable guys over that that build jigs, spinner baits, etc. who could help you. good luck, Ben
  10. Have you considered an HVLP spray gun? Ben
  11. Guess I'm not understanding what your trying to achieve Glider. I thought you were just looking for something to seal the wood while you were experimenting with ballast location. Ben
  12. If your just looking for something to seal the wood while your ballasting the lure why not use runny super glue? You won't find anything quicker and it will give more than enough protection against water intrusion for testing. Ben
  13. To make a paint more transparent, and not loose film strength, you will have to use a transparent base. This is essentially paint with no colorant in it. All a reducer will do is change the viscosity of the paint. (make it thinner) Ben
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