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RayburnGuy last won the day on March 12 2017

RayburnGuy had the most liked content!

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About RayburnGuy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/15/1954

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  • Location
    Corrigan, Texas
  • Interests
    Crankbaits in general with deep cranks being my favorite

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  1. When going for a crackle look and parts of the bait don't come out like you'd hoped for it's easily remedied. Take a liner brush and remove all but a few of the bristles and just paint the crackle lines onto the bait with the brush. I can't tell you exactly why the crackle doesn't work in certain areas, but the above method will save some aggravation. good luck.............Ben
  2. This is the only picture I can find. It's not close to the line tie, but can be placed wherever you'd like. You can also use a larger piece of lead wire if you need more weight. Just drill the appropriate sized hole. Ben
  3. I can't tell you how to do this exactly as the Bagley's were done, but I have weighted diving lips. This was done by using a piece of solid core solder and drilling a hole in the lip just large enough for the solder to fit in snugly. You then fit a short length of solder in the hole and brad it so it flattens out on each side of the lip. hope this helps..............Ben
  4. How long have you been using these gloves and what kind of gloves are they? Is it possible the gloves have seen too much use and have become contaminated with some type of oil or residue? Ben
  5. What Guy said...........After marking the lip slot on your blank before it's shaped just line the lip slot mark up with the top edge of the vice and make the cut using a hand saw. Just make sure to keep the saw blade touching the vice on both sides of the blank. Ben
  6. Used some rattle can Durachrome once and that's the one and only time I've ever had DN wrinkle. Solvents are notorious for not playing well together. A lot of the procedures we use to make lures is really nothing more than a "witches brew". We use a lot of things in ways that were never truly intended to be used in the way we do. The thing you have to do is isolate where the problem started and don't do that anymore. That's easier said than done a lot of times, but unless you have a degree in chemistry or can afford to employ a lab full of chem techs then it's the only choice we have. good luck................Ben
  7. After doing the initial cleaning with water I always flush and back flush with acetone. Maybe once a year I will clean with airbrush restorer but have never encountered the kind of crud your talking about. Acetone is your friend. Ben
  8. You don't need a vent for air to escape when filling holes with a syringe. Just make sure that your needle is long enough to reach the bottom of the hole before you start injecting epoxy. That way the hole fills from the bottom and pushes the air out as it fills up. I use the needles from an inkjet printer ink refill kit. They're about 21/2" to 3" long and will reach the bottom of any hole on the baits that most of use build. Ben
  9. Looks like a gold spoon that has been painted to me. You can get a similar finish by dipping a sponge in paint and then touching the sponge to the spoon. You might also try wadding up a thin piece of plastic (something like a plastic grocery bag like those at the store) and then doing the same process as with the sponge. Experimentation will go a long way. good luck...............Ben
  10. I do the same thing with discarded aluminum arrow shafts. The aluminum they use in making arrows is fairly hard and when used with a steel rattle makes a pretty loud rattle. The only thing is that you will have to heat it when bending over the end flap or it will break and overheating it will melt it. It's sort of a fine line with the heat, but once you get the hang of how much heat to use it goes well. Ben
  11. I used to know where that was, but somebody took my trail markers down.
  12. I'm like Clemmy in that I don't post much anymore, but still come around occasionally to read the posts and stay in touch with a few friends. It's too easy for someone to get "lost" in the pages of TU and believe that a "Lost and Found" page would be a great idea. Ben
  13. Don't know how it holds up, but it's perfectly clear. Invisible you might say.
  14. Yes. The syringe I'm using is actually one that came in an ink refill kit for filling ink jet printer cartridges.
  15. I don't use screw eyes, but I use 30 minute epoxy applied with a syringe and a large bore needle to install twisted wire ties and hangers. This takes all the guess work out of this process as far as whether or not the joint has a 100% bond between the tie and the wood. It's probably overkill, but this is just one less thing for me to worry about. As far as cleanup is concerned it's not that complicated. I keep 2 medium sized pill bottles on my workbench filled with DA. One is "dirty" alcohol and one is "clean". By doing a series of fill and purge with each bottle I'm still using the same syringe and needle I've been using for years. I wouldn't recommend using 5 minute epoxy. It can be done, but you don't have much time to clean the syringe by the time you install and align your hardware Ben.
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