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About JayBee

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  • Birthday 10/01/1973

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  1. Try Amazon or Ebay, they have various sets within your price range. This is a decent starter set imo. Createx Colors Airbrush Paint - 22 Colors and Cleaner - 2 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0115U439C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_Pq2rEb268WNB0
  2. Dinger and Predator have higher quality blanks than those other places you've listed in my experience. Great customer service as well.
  3. https://www.driftertackle.net/shop/drifter-tackle/believer/blanks-all-bait-styles/
  4. http://www.insanecustomstencils.com/, https://airsickstencils.com/index.php/
  5. JayBee


    I was told to try the slow dip method as a possible preventative to bubbles. All of those baits where cleared 7 days after painting, and I thoroughly heat set every coat of paint. I don't touch or handle any baits without nitrile gloves and then only if I have to. It's winter here in Wisconsin so the finishing and clearing occured in 70-73* degree temps and low humidity. I use bloxygen and suran wrap on my dip jar so it hasn't gone off, no bubbles, no trash on the bottom. This isn't my first go around with a mcu. I used DN pretty successfully before I thought I would give KBS a shot, it's cheaper afterall. But in my opinion DN is superior in everything but shelf life.
  6. JayBee


    I've been having issues with bubbles as well. Ive tried slowing the dip and retrieve speed to comical levels and I still get bubbles. Tried quick dipping to no avail. When I finish this batch of KBS I'm going back to DN.
  7. Very cool finish, it looks like it would take a long time to achieve that effect. Very unique as well.
  8. Interesting, I'd never considered that. I just don't paint many suspending lures I guess. Mostly shad rap , flicker shad style baits, some lipless and musky baits but I use epoxy on the musky stuff. Thanks for replying. Also I was of the understanding that turning MCU wasn't a good idea as the finish could pool and wrinkle the paint. Am I wrong about that?
  9. How thick are you going with KBS to ruin the action of your baits? Two coats is plenty unless you are fishing pike or muskies. I use it on cranks for walleye fishing with no issues.
  10. You could grab a bucket of water and submerge a couple of your lures for an hour or two and see how they hold up. I've never used the direct to metal stuff.
  11. Without proper ventilation and a good respirator auto clear is pretty toxic. You want to take every precaution you can when using it. That being said it does make for a very good clear on lures.
  12. Google is your friend... https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-60-Day-Ultimate-Masking-Multiple/dp/B00TI9VBNO
  13. To achieve a crackle effect I use this: https://www.amazon.com/FolkArt-Medium-Ounce-696-Crackle/dp/B000YQKLCM with good results. I've also read that you can make a similar solution by watering down Elmers white glue, although Ive never tried this. If you are painting plastic baits I would be cautious of getting them too hot with a heat gun as they will split at the seam. Wood baits are probably more forgiving in that regard.
  14. I like to spray mutiple thin coats of paint heat setting each coat with a hair dryer or heat gun. This allows for using a stencil or different color without damaging the paint on the bait. There are a lot of options for using a clear coat, epoxies, moisture cured urethanes, automotive clear, and others. I'd suggest using the search function and reading up on what guys use and the benefits and drawbacks of each type before you decide. A TON of information is available if you are willing to look for it.
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