JayBee
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Posts posted by JayBee
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Check out this video from Jekyll Baits on YouTube, seems like she achieves a similiar effect.
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I use Rustoleum as well, and like Mark let them dry overnight but I top coat with KBS and have zero issues with adhesion.
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It's certainly possible that your issue is contamination from the oils on your skin. I wear gloves whenever handling any primed or painted lure thst isn't clear coated. Another possibility is that your primer and airbrush paint aren't compatible, you didn't mention what you are using, just throwing that out there.
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You can freehand the design on a block of wood or draw your design on paper, cut the design out and glue it on. You can find good videos on YouTube and the search feature on this site has tons of great information.
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I've used it in my airbrush and as long as you don't let it dry in the gun it cleans up exactly like their paint. I've never tried it as a top coat but I don't think it wouldn't be durable enough for that use.
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You can buy clear flicker shads at retailers or online. They come with split rings, hooks and eyes installed but it's not a big deal to take the rings and hooks off and to pop out the eyes before painting.
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Try Amazon or Ebay, they have various sets within your price range. This is a decent starter set imo. Createx Colors Airbrush Paint - 22 Colors and Cleaner - 2 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0115U439C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_Pq2rEb268WNB0
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Dinger and Predator have higher quality blanks than those other places you've listed in my experience. Great customer service as well.
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KBS
in Hard Baits
19 hours ago, BBK said:Dipping speed should not have any influence on bubbles. Bubbles are caused by two things in this case (assuming your kbs isnt full of bubbles just sitting in the jar), oil or dust on the bait that is repelling the clear and trapping air, or moisture on the bait that is having a reaction with the KBS causing an off gas at the surface of the lure which causes a bubble. It's usually the second one that most people struggle with from what I have seen, usually because of painting in a high humid environment with water based paints that are not fully drying.. a couple seconds under a hair dryer does not fully dry the baits, I leave mine hanging for 12-24 hours at 50% humidity before dipping, after using a hair dryer on them when I am done painting of course.
I was told to try the slow dip method as a possible preventative to bubbles. All of those baits where cleared 7 days after painting, and I thoroughly heat set every coat of paint. I don't touch or handle any baits without nitrile gloves and then only if I have to. It's winter here in Wisconsin so the finishing and clearing occured in 70-73* degree temps and low humidity. I use bloxygen and suran wrap on my dip jar so it hasn't gone off, no bubbles, no trash on the bottom. This isn't my first go around with a mcu. I used DN pretty successfully before I thought I would give KBS a shot, it's cheaper afterall. But in my opinion DN is superior in everything but shelf life.
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KBS
in Hard Baits
I've been having issues with bubbles as well. Ive tried slowing the dip and retrieve speed to comical levels and I still get bubbles. Tried quick dipping to no avail. When I finish this batch of KBS I'm going back to DN.
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4 minutes ago, bladesandbaits said:
I have never turned it JayBee. Sorry man maybe someone else can answer who has tried it.
Gotcha, thanks Blades.
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16 minutes ago, bladesandbaits said:
One coat / issues I had were with Rogues- Pointer Minnows-Staysees and a few Crankbaits.
Fritts asked me to never put it on any of his lures again.
Customers noticed it and so did I. Probably from hanging them and not turning them as hanging baits from the nose allows more clear to settle to the rear of the bait even with a drip wire regardless how thin it is.
Not saying it is an issue with all lures. No doubt it cures really hard . Works for others not for me.
Interesting, I'd never considered that. I just don't paint many suspending lures I guess. Mostly shad rap , flicker shad style baits, some lipless and musky baits but I use epoxy on the musky stuff. Thanks for replying. Also I was of the understanding that turning MCU wasn't a good idea as the finish could pool and wrinkle the paint. Am I wrong about that?
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On 2/10/2019 at 3:06 PM, bladesandbaits said:
Spray it.
$76.00 quart + Activator $48.00 + Reducer $31.00
Thinner? Depending on how much you reduce it.
Harder? I dont know as I have never tested the durometer.
I use KBS on my spinnerbaits wont use it on most crankbaits and jerkbaits I custom paint as it tends to ruin the action.
Regards,
Blades
How thick are you going with KBS to ruin the action of your baits? Two coats is plenty unless you are fishing pike or muskies. I use it on cranks for walleye fishing with no issues.
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You could grab a bucket of water and submerge a couple of your lures for an hour or two and see how they hold up. I've never used the direct to metal stuff.
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12 hours ago, bladesandbaits said:
Why?
Without proper ventilation and a good respirator auto clear is pretty toxic. You want to take every precaution you can when using it. That being said it does make for a very good clear on lures.
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8 hours ago, Toadman said:
Thanks for the tip Wayne, not sure what 60 day tape is??
Google is your friend... https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-60-Day-Ultimate-Masking-Multiple/dp/B00TI9VBNO
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To achieve a crackle effect I use this: https://www.amazon.com/FolkArt-Medium-Ounce-696-Crackle/dp/B000YQKLCM with good results. I've also read that you can make a similar solution by watering down Elmers white glue, although Ive never tried this. If you are painting plastic baits I would be cautious of getting them too hot with a heat gun as they will split at the seam. Wood baits are probably more forgiving in that regard.
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I like to spray mutiple thin coats of paint heat setting each coat with a hair dryer or heat gun. This allows for using a stencil or different color without damaging the paint on the bait. There are a lot of options for using a clear coat, epoxies, moisture cured urethanes, automotive clear, and others. I'd suggest using the search function and reading up on what guys use and the benefits and drawbacks of each type before you decide. A TON of information is available if you are willing to look for it.
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On 1/1/2019 at 1:29 PM, mark poulson said:
Kurt posted this at the top of the Hard Baits Forum:
Personally, I've had good luck with Predator Baits and
Dinger Baits.
Agreed, got some blanks from Dinger a while back that were very high quality.
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Bloxygen uses ultra pure Argon, a powerful and natural inert gas to drive the oxygen and moisture out of your container. Simply blow the oxygen out of your container with Bloxygen and then seal the lid. The heavy, inert Bloxygen gas sinks down to block oxygen from the liquid surface.
That's from their website.
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On 11/24/2018 at 12:23 PM, 21xdc said:
KBS Diamond Clear is better and cheaper... Just my opinion.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html
It's on sale now and free shipping using promo code BF18
Deal ends tomorrow.
I like Dick Nites better than KBS. I just finished a quart of KBS, it's good, don't get me wrong, but DN is better. DN gets harder and has a slicker feel once hardened, and seems to go on a little thinner than KBS. I also like the fact that DN penetrates into the paint and forms a monolithic( in the sense that it becomes unified with the paint) finish.
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An exacto knife works for me. Punch the tip of the blade through the epoxy and scrape it out of the hanger.
Chrome paint
in Hard Baits
Posted
Are you spraying this or do you dip the lure?