Jump to content

BullwinkleII

TU Member
  • Posts

    4
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About BullwinkleII

  • Birthday 09/27/1966

BullwinkleII's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

10

Reputation

  1. I found the problem with just adding weight by filling a drilled hole with shot is it has to be done before all your layers of clear etc, which changes everything. I start with that but I wanted to be able to add or remove that last bit of weight right at the end when you have a finished lure. that was the only way I could get my lure to suspend, float, or sink just right. small bream lures though so perhaps this is being too fussy. -craig
  2. I would go with adding too much and drilling it out to adjust or getting it roughly correct but just under, and adding it with different weighted eyes or some lead wire around the front trebles make your eye pupils out of lead and black nail polish and keep a range of different weights, that way you can finish the lure, float it in a glass of water/seawater, add weight till it sits the way you want it to, then select eyes to match the weight... you could even make floating eyes to add buoyancy. -craig
  3. chip packets shrunk down to 1/ 8th size in the oven when i was a kid wonder if they still do dont know if thats a useful fact, but you never know -craig
  4. Hi people. Thanks for the amazing site. I'm trying to make some bream lures and wrap my head around bibs. Can anyone tell me if this is how a bib works? blue = turbulence = low pressure = downforce short steep bib= max downforce approx 1/3 back from the leading edge which is also approx 1/3 back from the lure's nose - lure gets pulled down almost flat long shallow bib = max downforce approx 1/3 back from the leading edge which is just behind the lure's nose or even slightly in front of the lure's nose - lure gets pulled down nose first -craig
×
×
  • Create New...
Top