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spoonpluggergino

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spoonpluggergino last won the day on June 20

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About spoonpluggergino

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/02/1945

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  • Location
    Glen Ellyn, Illinois
  • Interests
    Muskie fishing and Traveling

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  1. spoonpluggergino

    KBS

    I just started using KBS in the last few month, not sure to how many coats you guys are using and How many hours apart before dipping for additional coats Also for FYI I purchase a Thrifty Vac that fits over the larger Mason Jars when done dipping the baits I pull a vac on the jar with their Vac pump and takes out all the air and it doesn't leak They supply extra lids with a vac valve, works great, can be purchased at Amazon
  2. Cannot figure out how to submit new topic, so I am replying to my own topic in the last 4 or 5 days I have been searching for various flat stencil, here are the sites that I have searched Artool, Aerospace, all over amazon, purchased stuff from Insane stencil, cool stuff Artool has texture F X and F X 2 that are similar to what I want but not quite the same I am looking for stencils that looks like Crackels, Lightening, Camouflage, Irregular spots like crappie pattern, branching Any one that has access to different stencil maker I would definitely look them up to see if I can find what I am looking for Thank you Gino
  3. I am having some problems with the primer not adhesion to the wood after sealing the bait, is there some other preparation after the bait is sealed before applying the primer paint ? I usually I sand down the bait sealer than I wipe it with a damp cloth ad now I also dry the bait in a electric oven to 90 degrees I did switch primer paint in the past i used white rust-oleum primer, now I use Zinsser prime which I really like Any suggestion welcome Thanks Gino
  4. I am having some problems with the primer not adhesion to the wood after sealing the bait, is there some other preparation after the bait is sealed before applying the primer paint ? I usually I sand down the bait sealer than I wipe it with a damp cloth ad now I also dry the bait in a electric oven to 90 degrees I did switch primer paint in the past i used white rust-oleum primer, now I use Zinsser prime which I really like Any suggestion welcome Thanks Gino
  5. I am having some problems with the primer not adhesion to the wood after sealing the bait, is there some other preparation after the bait is sealed before applying the primer paint ? I usually I sand down the bait sealer than I wipe it with a damp cloth ad now I also dry the bait in a electric oven to 90 degrees I did switch primer paint in the past i used white rust-oleum primer, now I use Zinsser prime which I really like Any suggestion welcome Thanks Gino
  6. I am having some problems with the primer not adhesion to the wood after sealing the bait, is there some other preparation after the bait is sealed before applying the primer paint ? I usually I sand down the bait sealer than I wipe it with a damp cloth ad now I also dry the bait in a electric oven to 90 degrees I did switch primer paint in the past i used white rust-oleum primer, now I use Zinsser prime which I really like Any suggestion welcome Thanks Gino
  7. This particular mesh i use myself, it comes from lingerie bags that women's wash their lingerie's, bed bath and beyond, Walmart has them to, you can also purchase tulle or bridal veil at Hobby Lobby. but they are thinner material Gino T
  8. I am having some problems with the primer not adhesion to the wood after sealing the bait, is there some other preparation after the bait is sealed before applying the primer paint ? I usually I sand down the bait sealer than I wipe it with a damp cloth ad now I also dry the bait in a electric oven to 90 degrees I did switch primer paint in the past i used white rust-oleum primer, now I use Zinsser prime which I really like Any suggestion welcome Thanks Gino
  9. Is there paint that are not water based and that can be used with an air brush, I realize I would have to wear a respirator mask Thanks Gino
  10. I have been using Alumilite alumiV for a while now and I love it, I had to buy a 4 foot dual bulb lamps and the uv high output lamps are 365 nm, reason for 4 foot lamps because of large baits I build, I also installed a 9 rpm motor to rotate bait while curing. The finish is high gloss and rock hard Gino
  11. If you go on make a lure website there is a video by Larry that will show you that you can pour lead in the alumilate mold, also there are other mold material that you can pour lead Gino
  12. Hello MarkNY I build lots of glide baits and most of the really good stuff I learned it on this site. I use PVC deck board and it works really good, but because I make this for muskie fishing I use hard wood dowel pins for the tow line and hooks, most muskie guys builders use hard wood like maple, oak, beech and a all bunch of other hard wood. What it makes the bait glide is the placement of the lead in the belie of the baits, for example on a 8 inch bait I will install lead at about 1.5 inches from the front and the second lead about 2 inches from the back and it can vary. Initially when I start to weight a bait I will have all my hardware installed than I put the bait in a vertical beaker full of water than I start hanging lead from one the tail hooks until the bait starts very slowly start to sink at that point I know how much lead I need and it's a matter how fast you want to sink, for me I like really slow sinker, once the total ballast is known now I use the kitchen sink to distribute the lead at the two belie holes where the bait is sinking level, you can also use a large clear plastic bin if you need more depth. Another tip you can make lead molds out of hard wood to pour the lead that you need for each hole, than insert them in the bait. Once you get started you get all kinds of ideas to lead the baits, I made bunch of different lead baits with a wire hangar from a few grams to 20 grams and I use these lead weights to figure out the amount of lead that I need for a particular bait, note the vertical beaker it's almost a must, I have two the bigger is 3 inch by 21 inches tall. Here is a website that has a nice page on building baits including glide baits, the site name bustingbass .com Hope this helps, if you have any question I will be glad to help Gino
  13. wire through it's really a sure way for the hook or the tow screw not to come out, especially if you are a musky nut like me, but there is other ways to do the same job, wire through it's time consuming and a pain to dril through the bait. and then plug all the holes that you drilled For some of you guys that may have not seen my TUTORIAL on how to do a bait with maple dowel pin and the screw backed with a washer than epoxy the assembly in to the body of the bait, it's sounds time consuming and it is not very fast and just as good as wire through, any way see my tutorial named My hard wood dowel pin system Give it a try you will never go back to traditional wire through Gino
  14. I have thinned e-tex in the past, for 1 ml i used about 5 drops using an eye dropper, seemed to eliminate some air bubles, had no proble with it Gino
  15. ​Hello scrubs ​There are lots of muskie baits made from balsa wood but mostly twitch type of baits, on the LOTW we use lots of Crane baits and catch lot's of muskies, you do have to reinforce the bait with propionate or epoxy and install a wire in the belie of the bait. Reason for using balsa bait is due to has the best action for the twitch baits, outside twitch baits I use a all bunch of different woods depending on the application or type of bait, hope this helps Ben nice to know that they have good service, the lady I talked to was really helpful ​ Gino
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