SlowFISH

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SlowFISH last won the day on July 2 2018

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About SlowFISH

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  • Birthday 02/22/1972

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  1. SlowFISH

    FSB-5 from MudHole

    I started building (2) seasons ago.... you can do ALOT without the power wrapper... and you can make a rod turner for like 15 bucks which is the only "necessary" piece of equipment you'll need. My first "guide wrapping tool" was the cheapy wooden kit you can buy for 30 bucks off ebay - it works to start with - you could easily build one for less - it's nothing magical! I then bought (2) cheap spinning kits to "practice" on - which turned out to be rods for my kids. Learned a ton about the process on those. Then started stripping down rods I already had - some just to put micro guides on - some completely stripped to the blank and refinish, new handles, seats, guides, etc.... so you don't need to go buy new blanks with every build which can help the wallet if you already have rods you like but need some updating. Needless to say - I've now completely stripped and rebuilt nearly 10-15 rods and built another 5-6 from scratch. It's addictive..... couple suggestions... 1. Youtube is your friend... watch it alot to see how things are done!!! Rodbuilders forum to search out issues is invaluable as well. 2. Most difficult thing I found was applying the epoxy over labels/stickers. It's like anything else - the more you do it and get a process down - the better you get..... but even then it's challenging - I'm still working through it after a bunch of rods. Patience, practice and be willing to say - that sucks and strip it off is about the only suggestion I have.... I made the mistake 2x of saying "its good enough" and then a month later wind up going back and redoing it cause it just bothered the hell out of me to see a sloppy job. 3. Take your time and make sure to double check everything before the next step.... notably to make sure the guides are aligned perfectly.... J.
  2. SlowFISH

    Plastisol Cutting Agent

    +1 on WD-40.... basically makes the surfaces "slippery" and the plasitsol seems to just slide off it instead of sticking.... plus give anything metal a bit of protection should you leave it sitting around. One quick wipe with a paper towel before next use and everything is good to go. J.
  3. Thanks again.... I figured there was a ton of trial and error to do it - thanks for helping me sort through some of it!!! Very appreciated! J.
  4. Thanks Frank.... 2-3 times gives me a ball park to start - know there are probably a ton of variable (plastic temp, plastic hardness,etc) but 2-3 times gives me a good place to start... thanks again for chiming in! J.
  5. Hey guys.... Working on a couple new ideas and I am looking to create a hollow body bait. I plan to insert a core into the mold to create the hollow cavity - then after shooting, cooling and removing the bait from mold - pull the core out. I've seen guys doing hollow body swimbaits in this manner and have watched Franks video a few times that show what i'm looking to do (buthe's dipping the baits.) My question is - does anyone have any ballpark guidance for how big of a core I can pull through a smaller hole to exit the bait... for example - I'd like to create a hollow cylinder of 0.25" diameter in the center of the bait - can I use a .0615" rod to hold it in place and when removing - will that .06125" section of the bait open up enough to allow the .25" to exit without destroying/ripping the bait? I know ramping from one diameter to the other smoothly would/should help along with oiling the core - but figured I'd ask if anyone has tried this before and can provide any guidance / raito fo diamters that has worked for them that I can use as a baseline to start. Thanks! J.
  6. SlowFISH

    Cool video

    Nice find... thanks for posting! J.
  7. SlowFISH

    MF worm plastic problem

    Not much new to add to what others said - but "Stirring the hell out of it" people are talking about is stirring the cold plastisol in the bottle - before you even pour it into your container to heat. In reading your statement here I'm thinking your referring to stirring the crap out of it as it's heating.... that's too late... if you didn't stir up the product in the bottle - the mix will be off. You have to think of making baits like baking... if you tried making a cake by not stirring the mix right - then baking without knowing the temp in the oven - odds are your cake is gonna suck and no way you'd have any consistency the next time you cook a cake (or bait). Cheap digital thermometer will make a HUGE difference - and make sure to stir the crap out of the plastisol in the bottle before you start - those two steps will probably fix your problems.... I've made both mistakes when I started. J.
  8. SlowFISH

    Stirrer for Presto pot-Gourmia Gst210 Stiriffic

    I spent hours researching and trying various battery options. They will work... I used one but cant recall the name - gotta keep the amount of plastic reasonable as they don't have a ton of torque (or bolt onto the pot super securely) - I never really tried to use the stirring pot to heat plastisol from scratch through the gel phase... I microwaved batches and transferred to insure I didn't overload the motor - notably as batteries get a little weaker. You'll need to make a metal paddle of some sort regardless. In the end after screwing around and spending cash - I went and bought a used Dayton motor and some aluminum sheets off Ebay and just made a stirring unit similar to what are sold online. J.
  9. SlowFISH

    Wooden molds..can it be done?

    I used alot of Ren Shape... which is probably more similar to wood than alum or plaster in it's properties..... it works - you'll have a few issues though... 1. Will take alot longer to cool down the bait... I'd avoid making baits with very wide/fat sections as they will take forever to cool and de-mold. 2. Distortion of molds... as wood heats / cools - it's possible it can twist, turn, etc... my RenShape molds start bending enough that without clamps on tight - no way you could pour the mold... my guess is wood will do the same thing. 3. Keeping it sealed as it warps/moves/etc could be a challenge. Otherwise... (LOL) I'd say give it a shot. One benefit of mold materials that DON'T cool the bait fast is you can make some fantastically thin features/legs as they do not shut off/cool the plastic quickly. J.
  10. SlowFISH

    Powder colorant

    Interesting trick... wonder how it would work with some of the candy's and such. J.
  11. SlowFISH

    Plastic Memory

    Interesting video.....
  12. SlowFISH

    Bounce plastic

    Will not laminate with a laminate plate/2nd pour or if you shoot it with 2 injectors at same time (ex Shooting Star system) will it laminate? J.
  13. SlowFISH

    Worm hook with extra length eye to bend

    FYI - I picked up the Slider hooks 2/0 and 3/0 sizes..... they are alot more beefy in wire size (.050" and .055") than I'd thought they would be considering they are "slider" hooks... figured I'd let you guys know in case anyone was interested in the hooks - I like the strength as my goal is to use them in the weeds anyway. Also.... the 3/0 Black Nickel hooks must be tempered as bending back and forth on the bend near the hook eye will break it... but the 2/0 hooks (bronze) I was able to twist the eye up to 90 degrees - back past the original position - and then back into original position.... so if you want something you can adjust a little to make your jig just as you like - these may be the ticket. J.
  14. SlowFISH

    Florist’s Wire

    +2 on Needle Nose vice grips.... work real nice to twist the wire tight. J.
  15. SlowFISH

    Worm hook with extra length eye to bend

    Those hooks look perfect for what I need!!!!! Thanks so much.... I knew there were hooks out there - the Capt Hook (Gammy G584LS) looks very similar to the Owner hook minus a little bending... the Slider ones look just like the VMC hooks... I should be good between those options!!! J.