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SlowFISH

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SlowFISH last won the day on July 2 2018

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About SlowFISH

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  • Birthday 02/22/1972

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  1. Like it... Now I have something to add to my little arbor press as well!!! FYI - You'll find a ton of uses for those little press beyond cutting tubes... it works well for snapping my kids toys back together as well!! LOL!! J.
  2. As others have stated.... to get a "mirror" like chrome or metal finish of any color - plating is probably your only option. You can get a good silver flash or gold flash with foils, paints, transfers, glitter, etc.... but the mirror finish you'll find on a rattle trap is plated and about the only way you'd be able do it. FYI Spaz Stix LOOKS great - (trust me I researched that stuff for weeks) but you'll notice it's sprayed on the INSIDE of a polished acrylic 99% of the time - then backed with a dark base (and looks great). BUT... the second you try to reverse the process it it won't look the same cause - your black base will need to be polished perfectly for the spaz sticks to flat perfectly AND you'll need to cover the Spaz Stix paint with a clear/epoxy/etc.... it may still look good and flash - but it won't be a mirror finish if that's what your' looking for. Lots of other products will give you a good silver/gold flash base to work on without all that headache. J.
  3. Subscribing cause it's not like I don't have enough stuff to work on!!!! LOL!!! This is a great thread guys - awesome info and cool to see your work. I gotta say - it's a perfect challenge for using 3D prints for prototypes.... you'd basically guarantee the bodies are the same each time and you could print 4/5/6 interchangeable lips to pop in place and test instead of trimming on the spot.... J.
  4. McMaster Carr or a supply house like that has these things as well... measure what you got and look it up on their site. They list every dimension/spec you could ask for. J.
  5. Figured I'd post up some info on what I've learned since everyone was kind enough to share with me.... 1. I seem to be able to pull about a 3:1 ratio out from a bait with decent consistency. Meaning I can pull 3/8" diameter rod from a 1/8" hole and not trash the bait... of course there are things you have to keep in mind and do to make it happen and you can go for a higher ratio with certain design features (I think)!!! 2. Make sure you have a decent amount of plastic around the hole you're pulling from.... using my above example - if I have .030" around that 1/8" hole you have more trouble than if you had 1/8" wall around that hole. I know that doesn't seem to make sense but too thin just rips/tears or doesn't rebound to original shape.... not sure if a really thick wall is an issue as I didn't test - but too thin won't work - you need some meat at the smallest part of the opening/hole. 3. Temp - I found I have more stretch with warm parts as many have stated... but in my case I was pulling a thicker rod through a small hole... so having a cooler bait was better as while the plastic didn't stretch as far - it rebounded better.... I was having some parts deform permanently if they were too warm. So as usual with this hobby - it's a matter of trail and error on each design!! 4. Insert - polish that bad boy up!!! Rougher the finish the more of a challenge - totally expected - but I was surprised even the difference between an unpolished piece of aluminum rod vs. polished - makes a difference. Also - ramping up to the large diameter over a long stretch makes life easier than a blunt step in the insert/mandrel. Yeah - common sense actually works here!!! 5. Vacuum - I could also up the ratio if I was ok with making a hole in the bait opposite the mandrel I was pulling out. I found some of the challenge was as I tried to pull the mandrel out of the bait - it sucked down tighter around the insert until I reached a point where air back filled the cavity. So if you can live with a pinhole or something - you could probably go bigger or get mandrels/inserts out much easier. 6. Just like in any mold - your insert could cause areas to shut off quick and result in sink marks. In one mold I had much better results with a larger - longer insert that kept the wall thickness more uniform than another insert that shut the bottom of the bait off too quick and resulted in sinks/dents. Anyway - figured I'd post this stuff up for anyone that likes to tinker/play.. Im still still messing around alot to get things how I like them! J.
  6. USUALLY - they print the patent number on the package.... might be an easy place to start if you have a few packs lying around. J.
  7. Cutting in small bits is key. Otherwise you burn up the stuff that melted the fastest while still melting/cooking the solids. I use old baits with just some heat stabilizer at times.. usually stuff that I'm trying out in a new mold and don't wanna waste good plastic on. J.
  8. I started building (2) seasons ago.... you can do ALOT without the power wrapper... and you can make a rod turner for like 15 bucks which is the only "necessary" piece of equipment you'll need. My first "guide wrapping tool" was the cheapy wooden kit you can buy for 30 bucks off ebay - it works to start with - you could easily build one for less - it's nothing magical! I then bought (2) cheap spinning kits to "practice" on - which turned out to be rods for my kids. Learned a ton about the process on those. Then started stripping down rods I already had - some just to put micro guides on - some completely stripped to the blank and refinish, new handles, seats, guides, etc.... so you don't need to go buy new blanks with every build which can help the wallet if you already have rods you like but need some updating. Needless to say - I've now completely stripped and rebuilt nearly 10-15 rods and built another 5-6 from scratch. It's addictive..... couple suggestions... 1. Youtube is your friend... watch it alot to see how things are done!!! Rodbuilders forum to search out issues is invaluable as well. 2. Most difficult thing I found was applying the epoxy over labels/stickers. It's like anything else - the more you do it and get a process down - the better you get..... but even then it's challenging - I'm still working through it after a bunch of rods. Patience, practice and be willing to say - that sucks and strip it off is about the only suggestion I have.... I made the mistake 2x of saying "its good enough" and then a month later wind up going back and redoing it cause it just bothered the hell out of me to see a sloppy job. 3. Take your time and make sure to double check everything before the next step.... notably to make sure the guides are aligned perfectly.... J.
  9. +1 on WD-40.... basically makes the surfaces "slippery" and the plasitsol seems to just slide off it instead of sticking.... plus give anything metal a bit of protection should you leave it sitting around. One quick wipe with a paper towel before next use and everything is good to go. J.
  10. Thanks again.... I figured there was a ton of trial and error to do it - thanks for helping me sort through some of it!!! Very appreciated! J.
  11. Thanks Frank.... 2-3 times gives me a ball park to start - know there are probably a ton of variable (plastic temp, plastic hardness,etc) but 2-3 times gives me a good place to start... thanks again for chiming in! J.
  12. Hey guys.... Working on a couple new ideas and I am looking to create a hollow body bait. I plan to insert a core into the mold to create the hollow cavity - then after shooting, cooling and removing the bait from mold - pull the core out. I've seen guys doing hollow body swimbaits in this manner and have watched Franks video a few times that show what i'm looking to do (buthe's dipping the baits.) My question is - does anyone have any ballpark guidance for how big of a core I can pull through a smaller hole to exit the bait... for example - I'd like to create a hollow cylinder of 0.25" diameter in the center of the bait - can I use a .0615" rod to hold it in place and when removing - will that .06125" section of the bait open up enough to allow the .25" to exit without destroying/ripping the bait? I know ramping from one diameter to the other smoothly would/should help along with oiling the core - but figured I'd ask if anyone has tried this before and can provide any guidance / raito fo diamters that has worked for them that I can use as a baseline to start. Thanks! J.
  13. SlowFISH

    Cool video

    Nice find... thanks for posting! J.
  14. Not much new to add to what others said - but "Stirring the hell out of it" people are talking about is stirring the cold plastisol in the bottle - before you even pour it into your container to heat. In reading your statement here I'm thinking your referring to stirring the crap out of it as it's heating.... that's too late... if you didn't stir up the product in the bottle - the mix will be off. You have to think of making baits like baking... if you tried making a cake by not stirring the mix right - then baking without knowing the temp in the oven - odds are your cake is gonna suck and no way you'd have any consistency the next time you cook a cake (or bait). Cheap digital thermometer will make a HUGE difference - and make sure to stir the crap out of the plastisol in the bottle before you start - those two steps will probably fix your problems.... I've made both mistakes when I started. J.
  15. I spent hours researching and trying various battery options. They will work... I used one but cant recall the name - gotta keep the amount of plastic reasonable as they don't have a ton of torque (or bolt onto the pot super securely) - I never really tried to use the stirring pot to heat plastisol from scratch through the gel phase... I microwaved batches and transferred to insure I didn't overload the motor - notably as batteries get a little weaker. You'll need to make a metal paddle of some sort regardless. In the end after screwing around and spending cash - I went and bought a used Dayton motor and some aluminum sheets off Ebay and just made a stirring unit similar to what are sold online. J.
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