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SlowFISH

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SlowFISH last won the day on September 9

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About SlowFISH

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  • Birthday 02/22/1972

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  1. I've been using Stainless Steel cups - small ones similar to the condiments but a little bigger. Stainless keeps epoxy cool (longer time to apply) and after use - wipe once with paper towel to get majority of epoxy out - then a few drops of acetone and wipe again clean. I bought 5 figuring I'd ruin them quick - still using first one - no issues if you clean it before it hardens. J. https://www.mcmaster.com/1811t43
  2. Where was this suggestion when I was beating my head like crazy!!! LOL!! Nice tip - makes alot of sense! J.
  3. I've made quite a few swimbait molds with tails like that - getting the air out of the tails is a major PITA. Granted - they look great and work great - but are hit and miss on bubbles right where you're getting it. I found that the closer the angle of the tail edge (the edge your getting the bubbles on) is to 90 degrees from the mold split - the more trapped bubbles you'll get. Pretty sure it has to do with air getting trapped further up in the tail - and then not being pushed out fully before the cavity fills below it and seals off. That mold looks like the tail is pretty close to 90 degrees and is deep/wide... so I think you might have challenges with it no matter what you try. If you can't get them out with process (as others have mentioned above) - maybe add a few small vents in the tail and see if that helps the air push out. On a few of the mold I've made - I carved HUGE vents - almost more like appendages - to let the air/plastic migrate out of the tail - and then just trim them off. But I only make stuff on an hobby (personal level) so don't care about that extra work. J.
  4. Same here - I keep all old stuff / used stuff / etc in a plastic bag and melt it down when I'm testing out a new mold to aviod wasting new plastic - this way if I waste it or whatever who cares. It is comical though no matter how may colors you mix you always get brown in the end! J.
  5. I see your time listed - but if your not checking temp each time you stir - you should be. That will help you judge time/power. J.
  6. I think the "expiration" on alot of these curable resins is based on tow factors - 1 - how well it performs - which I could see some drop off over time - but for many many many things isn't a big deal and the second - suppliers wanting to sell product. I needed to reinforce something and wanted to use fiberglass to back the repair... found two quarts of epoxy resin in my shed which had to be atleast 4-5 years old - if not more... last time I can remember making something with it I lived in another house which was 4 years ago!!! It worked just fine... granted I probably wouldn't have used it for a structural application where you could hurt someone - but for what I needed it worked fine.... J.
  7. Where can i purchase this and is there a TU discount? LOL!!
  8. Bryan - Your 100% correct 350 in the middle only isn't cooked enough.... BUT - your clearly missing my point..... if you're heating in a micro you CAN'T stir while it's heating... so you can easily see 20-30 degrees hotter in the center than the top/side when you first remove it... so by understanding how hot the center is when you first remove the cup you can judge how long you can keep it in the micro without scorching the center. Meaning once I start to see 340-350 on the center - I cook it less and less (time wise) after removing and stirring... IF you use IR or stir first and measure you can easily over cook that center point by alot - even though you might only be 320 (after stirring). WIth dark colors you probably don't notice... with clear/light stuff you'll see it brown in the center (when over cooked) then tint the whole cup (brownish) instantly once stirred - and you might still not be at 350 yet (whole cup temp). Again - not saying IR doesn't work.... I use IR on my presto pots with stirrers if I 'm cooking a big batch - but with micros and smaller batches (1 cup) I found the digital thermos worked better for me.... J.
  9. IMHO... Purely speaking as a hobbist who's used both..... if you heat in microwave - the center of the cup (about 1" off the bottom) seems to get ALOT hotter than the top surface of the plastic. With a probe/digital type thermometer you can measure that area.... granted once you stir the plastic as you should be doing - either (probe/laser) should read about the same - but I noticed I didn't overcook small batches in the micro once I moved to a probe style digital thermometer as I measure that hot spot the second I remove from the microwave to insure I wasn't getting it TOO HOT in the center as I was heating it. By measuring the hot spot - you can better control how long you should nuke between stirs... which can really help insure your colors don't brown or you burn the plastic! Again - if you stir then check temp - shoudn't be much of a difference... but I found that center spot getting alot hotter so using the probe was helpful at first to know when I'm getting close to overcooking. J.
  10. For my own learning (as I've made all my bait molds and with few exceptions design them with a single top port and run the bait "vertical") when shooting a "side port" laminate... are you using a blending block? If so - I assume the port is on top of the mold and the bait running "horizontal"..... any issues with the colors not being somewhat even as it fills the injection port then has to "turn" and fill out the bait horizontally? I'd imaging if you don't have the block registered correctly obviously that would be an issue... but otherwise does it work pretty well? Thanks! J.
  11. Sometimes I shoot new molds I make with just 1 cup of plastic to test them out in my garage in the winter... so I know the pain of using a cold injector as temps can be in the 30s-40s. I now have a couple 2x4 blocks I use to rest the injector on with the tip / end sitting pretty far off of the wood - under the tip of the injector I have a small alcohol lamp lit to heat it. I don't have the injector in the flame - but above it an inch or so... it get's the tip HOT.... after 1 or two shots to warm the body of the injector up, the lamp does a pretty good job of keeping it warm/hot enough to shoot without too much of an issue. One note - I'm pretty sure this isn't great for the o-rings... but I bought a bag of 10 o-rings from McMaster Carr - so losing an o-ring or two every now and then isn't ta big deal. J.
  12. LOL.... this happens all the time with our clients... we had Client a few years back that had some cool car cleaning products but nothing with IP or unique about their offering other than the style/aesthetics. They had a Chinese factory produced parts for them - the factory determined after 6 months they'd make more putting their own name on the product and selling thru Walmart right along side our clients product. There was literally NO difference between the items other than the color and logo. Our client had to dump the product line within months as their sales tanked. I agree - things that need a very high level of accuracy are much harder to knock off then those which have a far greater level of tolerance. The scary part is as I mentioned above - where it isn't "other" producers knocking your stuff off... but your own factory bumping production up and selling it around you! J.
  13. Dave - Being a product designer by trade... I deal with this all the time... it's hard to innovate at times if you stick or are forces to utilize the same methods, shapes, processes, costing, etc etc everyone else does.... Kinda why most mass produces baits (hard or soft) are kind of the same... its not just the physics - but the manufacturing as well. Is it possible to make something new and innovative - sure - that's my job every day for my clients.... but it's usually a bit harder to do than if you are able to borrow or search out a different method/technology which brings a new element or variable to the equation - or break a "current" rule or variable of the category/area you are working in. 90% of what i work on is "boxed in" within constraints of current machinery, process, cost , line speed, etc, etc.... we are talking line speeds in production of 1200 items a minute and billions of items a year... and we still find ways to do something new and special - but it's tough at times... but on projects where we can break one of the category/current variables - usually you can do something really unique! So the way I look at lure design is two fold - one - what's working now that just makes damn good sense to borrow from... sort of the reuse old ideas part.... but also really understand what "rules" do NOT apply to me.... For instance - I'm working on some pretty cool softbaits that need a 3 part mold PLUS a machined insert to get what I want. To produce my bait at a huge scale / fast would be a nightmare or really really expensive to develop the molds and tooling to open / seperate / close fast for high speed production. BUT - I'm able to break the line /production speed rule cause I'm only making for myself so taking 1 minute to demold 2 baits isn't an issue and therefore I can have something really pretty cool that hasn't been done before - even though it complies to pretty much all the other variables/constraints of current softbaits! J.
  14. 400 is gonna scorch the plastic.... best bet is to do 2 things... 1. Pour the second color as fast (shortly after) as possible after the first.... the more heat you keep in that first pour while it's in the mold the better the stick yo'll have with the second pour. The bond is a relation of how much the second pour "remelts the first" and fuses together.... since you can't really raise your second pour temp up too much more.... try to keep that first pour warm/hot in the mold. The reason your ends aren't fusing are there is more mold surface area at the ends... which cools the plastic more/faster. 2. To help the first pour not chill so fast - warm that mold up.... usually silicone holds heat pretty well so you don't have to bake it or anything like that - but even pouring a couple single color worms first should get its temp up a little - notably if the mold is as cold as the ambient air (40-50 degrees) as you mentioned. I use resin molds and they always work better after a shoot/pour or two. J.
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