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SlowFISH

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SlowFISH last won the day on March 17

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About SlowFISH

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  • Birthday 02/22/1972

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  1. Are you heating your plastic to 350 to "kick" it over... then lower temp to shoot? Could be you aren't fully cooking the plastic... this was an issue I had. J.
  2. I had a similar issue with baits clouding up over time - most notably clear/smoke baits... but even noticed in on opaque baits as well... I THINK I figured it out... in my case there was (2-3) issues. One was the plastic - as there were alot of people which much more skill/experience than me having the same issue.... so there was something chemically going on. This was YEARS ago and that manufacture is no longer in business. My guess is the cloudiness conversations didn't help their sales... and unfortunately some of the issue could very well have been user error - as was the case with
  3. Quick question on Chartreuses/Fluorescents - Why do these need to be added prior to heating? I don't use them a ton and I understand you need to add it prior to heating... but WHY? Anyone know the actual reason those need to be used in this manner compared to nearly every other color/powder.... other than if you don't they don't work? LOL! Also - has anyone added more colorant to a batch (to add more saturation) if your light on the amount of drops to start with with any success? Last time I used a fluorescent color (green) I managed to like what I got right off the bat (dro
  4. I have to find "center" on a lot of odd shaped items for work.... benefit of doing both sides is you can "eyeball" center with your stack and scribe (don't bother measuring your part/bait to start)... then just see where the two scribes end up. Glue/taping a X-acto blade down on some post-it notes works great... as you can peel a few away or add more super easy to get center. Same technic works to mark something if you wanna shave off material - say you make a make a .0625" stack and scribe if you wanna shave it down 1/16" of an inch... low tech and accurate! J.
  5. Sort of similar to above.... you need to know your thickness first (of bait). Once you have that... you can do any number of things but one easy way is to stack up wood/paper/post-it notes/etc. with a razor blade (or Xacto blade) on top with that stack measuring from the table to blade edge - half the bait thickness dimension. Then push the blank past the blade to scribe a line all around.... and I'd scribe a line with both sides down... this way if your off a hair - you can see it and just drill/etc between the two scribe lines. J.
  6. + 1 on widening port near the bait - it's all about controlling the dents - last part to cool dents the worst. Luckily that wire will help a little as it will absorb some heat notably cooling the tail first. J.
  7. That's probably the best place to start.... also remember - the bigger you make the injection runner (dia) the better... think about the baits cooling.... in a perfect scenario - the tail cools/solidifies first and it slowly cools moving towards the nose and then your injection runner cools/solidifies last. That "should" allow the bait to keep sucking in "liquid" plastic from the injection runner the whole time.... which eliminated the dents. I've made a bunch of molds where I tried to be "cheap" on how big (diameter) of an injection runner I made to "save" plastic.... usually I end up
  8. All depends on a few variables.... How many cavities are you making / need? Are you planning on using a dual color injector at some point? etc... For example - if just one cavity and your baits are only going to be 1 color... honesty you can pretty much do whatever you want to some degree provided you vent the mold properly.... meaning you can inject from front or back - probably even the belly or top and vent the front/back. 1 bait provides alot of flexibilty... its when you try filling 2/4/6 at same time that sprue location gets trickier to place anywhere other than the "typical"
  9. LOL.... funny thing is I bet it still works just fine for the fish!!! J.
  10. eastman nailed it - use some opaque white then paint over that... really the only way you can cover black with light without putting so much paint down that you make a mess. J.
  11. It better catch more fish... why else would I spend more money and time!!! LOL!! I go crazy with baits just to drive my friends nuts that I have something they don't... but then again... what if Green Pumpkin shifts to Watermelon then back!!! LOL!! J.
  12. He's talking about powder colorant for plastisol mixed into the plastisol... not powder paint over the top of a bait. With that being said - I've only used pearls and some color shifting mica I had leftover from painting cranks instead of colorant - and it works nice... like everything else - you have to mess around to figure out the right amount to use. For me - I sort of mix "seat of the pants style" even with liquid instead of counting every drop.... and powders seems a little more fussy as you can over do it quickly (compare to drops of liquid) so get a really small spoon (REALLY
  13. Bob - I did exactly that - by the time I attached and turned down the original piston (trying to fix it) I felt I took too much material off - so machined a second piston - left it slightly oversized to start - threaded and attached it the to piston rod and then remounted it in the lathe and removed the last couple thou to get those two parts dead on together... should have done it that way to start! I have one of the Grizzly g9972z lathes - not the best machine - but perfectly suitable for a hobbist who isn't worried about perfect tolerances and having to remake a part or two every now
  14. lol.... I had some leftover aluminum from various things and decided to replicate my Bass Tackle Injector - seemed super simple... crank up the lathe and I'd be done in a couple hours... lol... it drove me nuts. These injectors seem super simple - and they are - but all the little details that have to be just right to get it to seal correctly and I had to monkey around to get a smooth pull/push... so I know the pain. I also think you are dead on with a little sloppy machining locking it up when the piston is retracted.... on mine I had every thing perfect - but rushed threading the pist
  15. Agree with all of this... as for the health issues with 3D printing - alot has to do with the type of 3D machine/process. SLA many times needs to be vented to the outside as the bath resin is NOT friendly and the combo of that with the laser burning it up makes some harmful gases. FDM with ABS/PLA are a little more "friendly" - but you are transitioning a solid plastic into a liquid state - so some off gassing can occur... but I'd bet you'd have same warning with a hot glue gun as well.... and FDM printing isnt close to what we breath with in with sanding/paint/clearcoats baits or if y
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