FuzzyGrub

FWIW: I recently did my 1st multi-colors. It was with jig heads that already had a cured base coat. Heating the jig with a heat gun and applied the colors with paint dusting from an artist brush. Final cure was in toaster oven. The base coat didn't appear any different from the additional heating and curing cycles. For multi-color, a gun or torch seems to be the best way to pre-heat. Using the oven rack gets to be a PITA quick. Putting the jig heads with paint back and forth, gives many opportunities to touch other jigs, racks, etc. With the heat gun it is easy to re-heat after one color to get that color to melt in, and pre-heat for next. Get all the colors on and then place in curing rack.

Ted, thx for the tip on cleaning between applications. DOH I've just been re-spraying.

Responsible Television??? There is a concept! Where is the ratings in that? You know, some flunky got to stick their hands in there 20 times before the "stars" did it. PS: I did hear that one of their stunts went haywire. Something about a cannonball skipping off water and destroying someones property: house, car, etc.

Maybe there is a good reason I only pour in the winter! While I haven't had any such incident, thought the same thing about the water in the lead. PS: I remember doing sand castings in shop, but didn't see the "hand dip". You did bring back memories of those old black & white shop safety videos. Missing digits.

Was discussing lead pouring at work, and a co-worker mentioned a Myth Busters episode where they stick fingers into lead. I didn't believe it, but found the video on utube: Even after watching it is hard to believe. Maybe its because I have so much respect for it, and how dangerous it can be. Also, noticed another video on utube with someone else doing it. For those of you that have worked with it, would you have believed without seeing the video?

Received the Eagle Claw EL2831 3/0 hooks today. It is the same physical size as the mustad 32831 3/0. Measuring wire diameter, I am getting 0.001" larger for the EC. I couldn't detect any difference in pull test with my fingers. With a savings of more than $6/100, highly likely to replace the mustads once they are gone.

I have only used resin and hardner for molds. No body filler. I used soft masters with "hard" mold. A very thin coat of vasoline help seperate on hard surfaces. The more "hardner" that is added the hotter the reation, and the heat is what causes allot of the issues.

While last year was still using a pyrex cup, this test was done with thin walled borosilicate glass. It does not have the mass like pyrex.

I received my small order of 111's 4/0's I did get some EL2798 flateyes, and some samples including EL570BP and EL3052 90 degree jig hooks. The EL2831 's are on back order. First the EL570BP vs EL3052 size 2/0. The 1st thing you notice is the 3052 needle point vs the larger barb on the 570. The finger pull test indicated the 3052 was more resistant to bending. This was then confirmed with wire diameter measuring with callipers. 570 = 0.036", 3052 = 0.039" A mustad 746 = 0.039" . The 3052 is about $4/100 savings over the Mustad 746, I'll probably switch once I use up the mustads. EL2798 vs M32798. EL2798 = 0.046" M32798 = 0.049" The eagle claw seems to be slightly weaker. The dropped forged part of the hook (curved part) seems more pronounced on the mustad. On these, will have to make up some jigs to see if I notice a difference before buying more of the EC. I'll post a comparison on the 831's when I get them.

Thats were I got mine. They run allot of half price sales on it. The laser is only for pointing. The actual place it is taking the temperature is slightly below it. They also have digital probe type thermometer for $6. Its good to 400F and you can change it to C if you like.

I am fairly certain I didn't overheat it or do anything different than I did with the others. This coming weekend, I will repeat the test with both calhouns I have. I will take IR and probe temps at each stir. I will report back in a seperate thread. I'll be glad to find out it is something I'm messing up.

I guess I'm in the minority, I just purchased my first plastisol from the place I bought the 1st molds. Maybe you can provide a list of all the suppliers that will send out free samples to people just starting out. Lureworks did, but I thought it was bold just to ask.

Yes, the thread was to provide pricing for newbies, and a newbie would gravitate to the lowest price. A newbie is just going to pick one vs testing different ones from the get go. Trying additional brands comes from getting hooked on those 1st pours.

I have had excellent service from CC on molds, but have not tried or even asked for sample plastisol. I did think their packaging idea was cool and inovative, and they seem dedicated to this niche market. Pricing is on the highend. I am surprised to hear they mix their own. I was assuming they were repackaging or having it mixed slightly different from the mfg. To consistantly mix batches, is not a small matter. Bold move on their part. If it is a more "idiot proof" plastisol, it could have its place. I'll probably try a sample if/when I order another mold. For now, its the devils I know.

SHK, If it only yelllows from overtemp, than it is easy to do in the reheats, and more so than the other two I tested this weekend. The 1st shot was clear, but the reheats for the 2nd thru 4th got noticably yellower. I ran into this yellowing issue last year doing "clear" and translucent type baits, and was part of the reason I did this testing. Now, my old mic/oven combo has only a high mic setting, so you do small intevals, and stir allot. This would be similiar to what a newbie would be doing. The Pourasol and MF only had the very slightest of tinting during the reheats. I think the MF had slightly less, but it was close enough to say a tie. The pourasol bubbles were less after the intial heating, and didn't impact my injecting, drawing off the bottom. The other thing I was looking at was floatation. I already knew the calhouns was neutral to sinking, but wanted to test the floataion of the other two, which were about equal. As far as odors, with ventilation and mask, didn't notice much difference. The finished baits all have slightly differing smells. I don't know if the worse it smells has anything to do with how unhealthy it is, but bottomline is a newbie (or anyone) should not be breathing this stuff in. FWIW, the calhouns I have are from two different suppliers. Both look to be just repackaged from drums. It does not have any Calhouns factory labeling (if they have such a thing). Both seem to behave the same. The MF was repackaged as well, but the pourasol was a factory package (free sample). BTW, I'm not banging the drum for any plastisol, it was my opinion on what would be easier for a newbie to work with. The price, especially for factory packaged is outragous for MF.