fishnart
-
Posts
340 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
TU Classifieds
Glossary
Website Links
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by fishnart
-
-
Alright my little bait builder artists out there. I have a question about swimbaits. I've been repaining some swimbaits and its really hard not to get epoxy in the joints. and I hate this process. So...for those of you that build them, whats the easiest way to take them apart to paint and seal them? Can I take a tiny drill and drill where the pin goes and then take the pin out? What[s ya'lls advice on this...thanks a ton
-
Thanks for the clarification
-
OK I did a search on heat setting. So let me revise my question, for those that heat set between colors, what if I just let it air dry (using water based paint)? Is that good enough or is there still a benefit to drying it. Also if I let a bait set over night before epoxying it, is that going to be dry enough. I do my baits in a heated basement. Or is it still beneficial to heat dry it? Again...thanks
-
I thought I'd asked this somewhere in a post but I can't find it, but what are the advantages and how important is it to heat set your paint before using your top coat. I'm sorry if you answered this somewhere else hahaha.
Also, I was just thinking about the post about baits yellowing and had an idea that I'm sure someone will be able to address. I used to use Lacquer thinner to thin my epoxy and it was a yellowish, pinkish color. You guys taught me to use alcohol which I now do. I'm wondering if that lacquer thinner that I used, or we use, might help turn baits the pinkish color??? Just a thought and I'm sure someone knows the answer to this.
-
yes, all of this helps
-
Musky Glen, I'm dig'n that hole in the side of the coffee can deal, might have to steal that one from you
- 1
-
Right now I just have the ol' single action Pashe. No needle, I just flush it out by squirting windex through and then in between painting sessions I just prop it up in the a windex/water mix and let it soak. I like the acetone for a final cleaning though. That's doesn't gum up or anything inside the brush? Don't use acetone very much, it's ok if it comes into contact with residual water inside the brush??
- 1
-
Yeah, I bought them at my marina years ago, don't think the were a name brand. They are good, that's why I was HOPING someone might know . I was using one the other day and after being hung up it came flying back and hit my boat, busting the lip. So I'm thinking of grinding the lip down and using it for a top water. When it sits in the water it sits up right. Well thanks for responding...hey wait...wonder if someone could make'em
-
-
Thanks Mark...Guys and gals, I've had these baits for years. Originally they were prism tape and doll eyes incased in plastic with a gosh awful lip. I added a small amount of paint to top and bottom and painted some eyes on them. They're really good baits and look a lot better after I'm done with them. My question to you guys is if you by chance have seen these before. I'm not posting them on here to get your opinion of my work (I can't post here for that reason) I just would like to find some more of these baits. Like I said, they're really old and I bought them from a marina so I'm not even sure they're any brand name. But I thought I d throw it out here to you guys hoping maybe someone might have seen them before.
Thanks for any help
-
Can I post a pic in this category if I want to see if you guys can identify an old bait or do I still have to put it in the gallery? Thanks
-
How's the concrete sealer applied, brush on or spray through gun?
-
Guys thanks to each and every one of you for taking the time to reply with such great information, I so appreciate it. I have some baits that are several yrs old that haven't yellowed and only a few that have. And I would agree with you that say there are pluses and minuses for each. You really helped me, thanks again
-
I did a search before I asked but it didn't yield anything. I'm sure its been talked about?? Can you guys explain the difference between Devcon and Flexcoat? How are these two different? I might want to change over from Devcon to try it???? Thanks in advance.
-
can you tell me again why you heat set your paints after each coat?
-
Ok I 've had the same thing happen, its very frustrating. So the Flex coat, is that a two part epoxy? Brush on?
-
K thanks!
-
That sounds great. Never heard of etching primer, where do you get that? Thanks for the help sir
-
Thanks Cadman, what I was thinking was getting some primer maybe then some metal paint to put a base boat on a spoon. Then paint with my acrylics, and then finish it off with Devcon...what'cha think?
-
I think this is the right category. Do any of you know the best way to paint metal spoons? And will DC2 stick to metal and will it last?
Thanks
-
They work great
-
I use dt2 and hang mine. I just pay attention and if I see a drip happening I flip it. It sets up enough not to drip pretty quick
-
Well I'm not sure about Musky plug knockers but I can tell you what works unbelievable well for smaller baits. I get a big salt water lead weight, I think they're bell type weights and have the swivel type hookup molded in. You attach a snap or swivel to the weight and when you're hung up just attach the weight to your line via the snap and slide it down your line. This costs you about $1.50 and so far for me, its been 100% effective. There have been times where it takes me a few minutes but you just keep jerking your rod tip and eventually the weight works your bait lose. It works crazy good for as simple as it is. I use I think, 2 oz to 4 oz weights. I'm not sure if this would work on a big musky bait but it's good to have one in your boat.
-
Great information Dave, thanks a lot. I am definitely going to try it...reeeeal slow
Swimbaits
in Hard Baits
Posted
Thanks Mark, yeah I expected it to be a little tricky. Uuuuh but what's AC1315 hahaha? If it's easier than epoxy, I'm all for it hahaha. I hate trying to get that into swimbait joints