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About wchilton

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  1. Cleaning a mold

    Anything caustic will eat up aluminum. Soaps made for dishwashers (machines) are very strong and should be avoided. Liquid dish soap for hand-washing should be ok and hair shampoo would also be safe. Some of the strong de-greasers are also strong caustics that should not be used on aluminum. Remember that if you want to clean an aluminum engine or aluminum wheels!
  2. Bleed vs. Non-bleed

    Not sure. There are a lot of different dyes and they have different properties. If you have a pigment that can dissolve in the oil (rather than be held in suspension) then it will act like a dye as far a bleeding. Dye particles can be really small, down to individual molecules...that's why they can move within a plastic bait. MF advertises a non-bleed chartreuse (I've never tried it).
  3. Bleed vs. Non-bleed

    Mark is right. Pigments are made up of particles much larger than dyes. Being larger, pigment particles get trapped in the plastic matrix while dyes can move within the plasticizer (liquid) and bleed to other parts of the bait. The smaller the particle size, the more transparent a bait will be, so dyes allow for the best transparency if that is what you're looking for.
  4. What did I do wrong (2pc Molds)

    You should be ok once you use the correct mold release for silicone to silicone. I'd recommend a test run using a small batch of silicone (no lure model) to make sure you have the process down and can get a clean release. A lot of mold releases contain silicone oil and the silicone rtv just sucks it up. Looks like the mold release you used before is meant for resin or plaster casting, so that's where the problem was.
  5. 2-Pc Mold Help (thin Legs)

    The modeling clay will soften and even melt if you get it warm enough. It's just clay mixed with wax and oil to get the desired consistency. It hardens back up when it cools down. Try a hair drier on high heat to soften it up. Melting point is around 200 deg F but it will get pretty soft if you get it up to about 150 deg or so and a hair drier will do that.
  6. Casting Resin Help

    I've used urethane casting resin for AeroMarine with good success. They are local for me so I don't have to have things shipped. It's one that pours clear and cures "off-white". Easy to sand and shape, like a hard wood. It also becomes somewhat flexible if heated and can be "bent". I've also used an orange casting wax. Different than plain paraffin in that it doesn't shrink or expand as much during cooling. That works fine too, just not "sandable" but you can re-use it (by melting) and instead of sanding just scrape with a knife. Also can get a smooth finish by passing it in front of a flame. Last, I 've also used ordinary hot glue that's made for hot glue guns. That seems to work ok too, but not as easy to modify as the wax since it stays flexible.
  7. Making a Master.. Back-Up?

    I never permanently glue my master. I usually just use 2-sided tape to hold it in place and create a silicone mold. Then if I need copies of the master I cast them using a casting resin which is a 2-part urethane resin that sets up to a hard plastic and turns from transparent to sort of an off-white color when it sets. I also don't use glass together with silicone because silicone sticks very strongly to glass. A mold release agent on the glass could be used but I just use a plastic cutting board and the silicone never sticks to that. Look for "casting resins" to make copies of masters. They have almost no shrinkage, cure quickly, and are lower viscosity (almost like water) so they are really easy to pour and capture every detail with.
  8. Questions about making silicone molds

    If you're making a mold using a plastisol bait as the master it's best to have it held in place somehow. Silicone is denser that plastisol and you don't want the bait floating to the top. You can make a one-piece mold with no sprues, etc. like you mention and slice them open with an exacto knife. I've done that. You just may want a little thickness (1/8-inch absolute minimum) on each side to have enough stiffness to maintain the shape of the bait. You also have to be really careful filling those because when you let them close they can ooz/spurt hot plastic. One thing I've done is to mount my master on a thin strip of wood (upside down) so I only get a thin flat region at the top of each bait that is easily trimmed. You basically pour into a long, thin sprue and since the silicone is so flexy it's not problem getting baits out.
  9. Yes, but I've heard about this more in regards to epoxy than CA. For golf clubs you can use a ca glue called "black max" that has rubber in it to make it tougher (rather than brittle) and you'd still use the glass beads to ensure even glue line width between the club head and the shaft. In the case of wood and using thin super glues, the glue soaks into the wood pores so bond line thickness is going to be less of an issue. For gluing wood to wood, you want a thin joint and clamp pressure drives the wood glue into the pores of the wood. Heavy clamping with epoxy pushes most of the epoxy out of the joint since it's too thick to be pressed deep into the pores. This is one of those areas where the specific product may work when a generalized answer says it shouldn't. It basically gets down to you have to make a few tests to find the best glue for your particular situation. Bond line thickness is one thing to consider, as is surface prep by both roughing up and cleaning, etc. Here's a link to a nice write-up on adhesive "issues" to keep in mind "https://www.freemansupply.com/datasheets/adhesivesguide.pdf".
  10. Epoxies can be sensitive to the thickness of the bond line. If fit between the parts is too tight, the bond line will be too thin and epoxy looses strength. You can google "epoxy bond line thickness" to get more info. Starting point is from 0.001 to 0.006 inches for a good epoxy bond line. I played with assembling golf clubs a while back and one way to get a consistent bond thickness was to mix small glass beads with the adhesives.
  11. Open Pour Senkos

    Cooler plastic is more viscous and will suspend salt better. That's why you'd want to pour as cool as possible. Also, the finer the salt the slower it will settle in the plastic. Aluminum molds will pull away heat to solidify the plastic more quickly before salt can settle. Also, starting with cool molds will help cool the bait down faster, regardless of the material the mold is made of.
  12. Making Silicone Swimbaits

    Silicone will adhere tightly to silicone, glass, and porous surfaces. Sealed PoP should be fine. I'd give a spray of PAM as a release agent. If you're looking for toughness of the bait, I'd look into RTV polyurethane also.
  13. Pyrex Cup Koozie

    Silicone caulk will get hot too. I used silicone to glue fiberglass "paper" (thin fiberglass insulation) to my cups and that works well for me. I did that for norpro silicone cups and it also stiffens the sides of the cups. Have been thinking about doing same for glass beakers I use.
  14. Mcu Vs Pud?

    Heating will speed up the curing process. It's like any other chemical reaction, higher temp results in faster reaction. The rule of thumb is reaction rate doubles for every 10 deg C (18 deg F) increase in temperature. That rule depends on other things besides temperature but is not a bad guideline. A little heat to make the epoxy flow is fine. As it's spread out over the bait it will cool back down and the cure speed will go back to normal. If I want to speed up cure time I'll usually let the epoxy cure normally (without heat) until it's solid and then warm it up for the final cure. I just hang baits in a cardboard box and put the whole thing in the oven with just the light on (no burner heat). With a 60 watt bulb that gave me a 100 degF cure environment. I used to use a cardboard box/lightbulb setup for curing tung oil on gunstocks. Same principals apply. With that setup I reduced cure time from 3 days to less than a day and I could apply the next coat each evening after work and get a stock finished in a few days or a week.
  15. Diver Vibe 80

    I dug up some info for anyone that wants to try making a replica. Length: 80 mm Weight: 42 gm (also a 24 gm version) Solid lead weight, no rattles #4 hook in front and #6 hook in the back