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toadfrog last won the day on October 11

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About toadfrog

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  • Birthday 11/15/1955

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  1. I hang them while on the runner. Then leave them about 3 days. Bag with scent . I put the scent in a spray bottle so I can spray the inside of the bag . Makes it easier to get the plastic to go in. I also made some skids I lay the plastics on to slide them in a uniform position into the bag. I put worm oil on those to make them slippery. Just my way and personal preference.
  2. It will do that if you have boogers in your plastic(unmelted plastic chunks)
  3. That depends on a couple things. Do you have a collar or no collar. Collars make it harder to evenly spread the fibers. That can lead to difficulty. No collar is going to need a grip laid down the shank to help hold fibers. That is where you wrap thread down and back to the head. Leaving a knurled look before adding fiber. As far as quantity sort of a rule I use is cut a piece about as big as a pencil is around . Puck the short crap out . Lay it up and add to or take away to achieve the flare or look I want.
  4. You have to in a way stack that stuff like buck tail. Cut a hunk off . Hold it by the longest tips . Pluck out the short fuzzy stuff mixed in where you cut it loose. That is what causes a lot of the problem . It won't let you cinch down on the filaments the way you need to.
  5. toadfrog


    Good deal. That in itself helps the life of your injector.
  6. toadfrog


    A little worm oil on the O rings might help.
  7. toadfrog


    Get the 6 oz. Just because you can always use less . But you can't more in a 3 oz. Especially since at some point you may want to shoot more than a couple molds in a run. You will want to get as many cavities in a mold as you can .
  8. toadfrog


    My advice would be . Get a Bass Tackle injector . Mine are years old and other than having to buy new O rings ,they have took a licking and kept ticking.
  9. toadfrog


    Probably should ask that question on FB since more people on there have purchased them from that platform. I can say I haven't heard any complaints.
  10. I cut the tip of a dowel rod and inserted a one inch strip of thick plastic making something like a spatula. Being deer season almost an old arrow would fit in a gallon jug fletching end first. Like wallyc14 said Bait Plastics would be a good place to start . I prefer the medium for everything that's not salt water lures.
  11. Sometimes some of the guys that have turned their hobby into a bigger business will sell regrind . It is degassed and already colored . Only draw back is waiting for a color to pop up you want. Another thing is DON'T shake the plastic Stir it Very well . If you shake it like a martini you will infuse it with more and more air . Use an infra red thermometer to check your temp . Try to stay right around 350 or just under. Sometimes if you get bubbles you can let it sit and skim the bubbles with a spoon as they rise. A cup of plastic will take right around 2 minutes or so to heat depending on your microwave wattage. Add colorant after it is hot unless you have a formula that is proven already. Glitter should be added only after heating . It sometimes bleeds or curls up in an over heat. I think the color cook book is still available on TU /
  12. I have a couple . They shoot well with no issues.
  13. toadfrog

    Buzzbait Help

    Pure lead. Keel molds are a pain to pour period . The best thing you can do is smoke the mold . Then get you a ladle with a spout on the side (not one of those with just a lip). Pic below. Turn your mold hole position horizontal , stick the ladle spout in the hole. Turn both into vertical position in one move. For a better hook alignment and bond crimp the hook onto the wire. Place the assembly away from the collar deeper into the head. Sometimes this will require a piece of silicone tape placed where it can grip the hook when the mold is closed. This will help with alignment and keeping the assembly in position . Check the owner hook to see if the shank dia. is bigger. If it runs to the left tweak the wire until you get what you want . Be aware some types of skirts can cause a bait to tilt one way or another . There is a method i use to adapt a bigger hook to almost any mold . But that entails a whole other discussion . There will always be a slight issue with keel molds in one form or another. What ever you do never use a Dremel on a mold. Just a personal pet peeve of mine. I hate seeing molds looking like a hatchet was used to mod. it .
  14. I can't give you an equivalent advice, But I can tell you this. If your going t5o sustain plastic you need to keep it at 38 to 68 degrees or it degrades . Especially keep it out of the sunlight. Having said that I hate any plastic once used that has an oily residue as I sometimes paint them in different ways . Using different mediums. My proffered Plastic is Bait Plastic until they change formulas as often these companies do . If I'm not doing salt water I use the medium for everything. I always say use them all and I have . Ya just got to find one that fits you . Call Bait Plastics , Butch might just send you a sample.
  15. Words of wisdom from Apdriver. Forget the dremel. If your going to mod a mold then make it look more professional . Resale on a modified mold goes through the floor if it looks like you did it with a hatchet.
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