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toadfrog last won the day on June 14

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About toadfrog

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  • Birthday 11/15/1955

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  1. Might don't know never fished it . Thanks for the cudo's. Didn't mean to pirate the Noobtube post though .
  2. Actually I never did a video and my friend has the molds shooting the baits for his area. I hear rock bass and smallies like it .
  3. I had a design I sent Vitaly Osti . He cut it according to my specifications. I call it a pond hopper. The wings on the side can be partially detached to flap or completely taken off down the serration lines on the side . Most of the stuff I do has a 2 fold presentation .
  4. One of the things they put in wheel weights . Thing is wheel weights will ruin your pot . Some of it is is corrosive and can eat pits in the crucible . Wheel weights have no. on them . Some of the manufactures have list of the material in a weight . Been a long time since I tried to look up any of that stuff.
  5. The only time I ever ran onto what you describe was I got a mix of lead and Babbitt . But then it would be hard as a rock and to thick to pour from a bottom spout when you heat it .
  6. See if you can contact one of the old users of the bait by email or a fan page something like that . Might just get an answer . Another possibility, Find the location of where the store was exactly . Next find out where the old fishing geezers hang out and ask some of them .
  7. Welcome . every now and then your going to run into stuff like that feel free to give me a shout .
  8. Facebook, Print-A-Lure. click on photos have a look there.
  9. Just underneath the blade place another bead one size smaller with the one you have . can't see if you put one on top but if you did replace it with the smallest bead possible so that it does not interfere wit the tilt. Also a more side ways cast keeps the line from forming an overlap that might foul the blade . Especially if the wind is blowing That is the only time an inline blade ever failed me on a cast.
  10. Yep that is normal for those old molds. You see where the alignment knobs are . The divot on the opposite side can deepened Just a touch with a drill slightly smaller than the divot . Because all you want to do is let the knob seat a little further down . Then take a straight edge and run it cross wise on the matting surfaces . Mark the high spots . Get a diamond whet stone like you would use to sharpen a knife and slowly remove the high areas . A word of caution . Test the mold through each step . But it will never be like a Do-It . Just try to get the flash manageable. Then stop.
  11. All those old molds were to my knowledge made to produce lead lures or sinkers. I've had my share and they all produce flash after they are poured . At least the really old ones Palmer made for general distribution .. Pics of the mold open and closed showing the closure seam would help . The clay may have been used to reduce the flash around the spoon. If the mold is warped it may be junk . At the very least it would take someone experienced in adjusting one .
  12. Yep #4 on second pic . 3.5 on first pic. I've had fewer issues with folded clevis . No issues on the inline blade . Amother often overlooked blade is the June bug blade and various prop type blades. Prop blades are more common on bait rigs .
  13. The bottom pic has one of the few blades that do not need a clevis. It is almost infallible. Unless specified by someone I almost always use a folded clevis.
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