toadfrog
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Might don't know never fished it . Thanks for the cudo's. Didn't mean to pirate the Noobtube post though .
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Actually I never did a video and my friend has the molds shooting the baits for his area. I hear rock bass and smallies like it .
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I had a design I sent Vitaly Osti . He cut it according to my specifications. I call it a pond hopper. The wings on the side can be partially detached to flap or completely taken off down the serration lines on the side . Most of the stuff I do has a 2 fold presentation .
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One of the things they put in wheel weights . Thing is wheel weights will ruin your pot . Some of it is is corrosive and can eat pits in the crucible . Wheel weights have no. on them . Some of the manufactures have list of the material in a weight . Been a long time since I tried to look up any of that stuff.
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The only time I ever ran onto what you describe was I got a mix of lead and Babbitt . But then it would be hard as a rock and to thick to pour from a bottom spout when you heat it .
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Help Needed! Tracking down any leads/sources on old family lure
toadfrog replied to Gillark's topic in Wire Baits
See if you can contact one of the old users of the bait by email or a fan page something like that . Might just get an answer . Another possibility, Find the location of where the store was exactly . Next find out where the old fishing geezers hang out and ask some of them . -
Yep mine are running late.
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Welcome . every now and then your going to run into stuff like that feel free to give me a shout .
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Facebook, Print-A-Lure. click on photos have a look there.
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Just underneath the blade place another bead one size smaller with the one you have . can't see if you put one on top but if you did replace it with the smallest bead possible so that it does not interfere wit the tilt. Also a more side ways cast keeps the line from forming an overlap that might foul the blade . Especially if the wind is blowing That is the only time an inline blade ever failed me on a cast.
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- spinners
- inline spinners
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Yep that is normal for those old molds. You see where the alignment knobs are . The divot on the opposite side can deepened Just a touch with a drill slightly smaller than the divot . Because all you want to do is let the knob seat a little further down . Then take a straight edge and run it cross wise on the matting surfaces . Mark the high spots . Get a diamond whet stone like you would use to sharpen a knife and slowly remove the high areas . A word of caution . Test the mold through each step . But it will never be like a Do-It . Just try to get the flash manageable. Then stop.
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All those old molds were to my knowledge made to produce lead lures or sinkers. I've had my share and they all produce flash after they are poured . At least the really old ones Palmer made for general distribution .. Pics of the mold open and closed showing the closure seam would help . The clay may have been used to reduce the flash around the spoon. If the mold is warped it may be junk . At the very least it would take someone experienced in adjusting one .
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Yep #4 on second pic . 3.5 on first pic. I've had fewer issues with folded clevis . No issues on the inline blade . Amother often overlooked blade is the June bug blade and various prop type blades. Prop blades are more common on bait rigs .
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The bottom pic has one of the few blades that do not need a clevis. It is almost infallible. Unless specified by someone I almost always use a folded clevis.
